I have a water pressure problem with am Evinrude, 200 hp, 1988, VRO removed. Once back in cold weather the warning horn sounded while running. Traced that down to weak add on electric fuel pump. Ran it with no problem for two months, then other day after being subjected to some weeds / grass, warning horn cam on again. Cleaned foot off, wasn't bad, had Infa-red temp gauge on board, shot the heads with cover off, measured 190 degrees F. Let it cool down, made it home no problem.
The water pressure at the dash gauge has only shown about 10 psi at WOT. SOOO, even tho the guy I bought it from said the motor was completely rebuilt, I pulled the foot & put a new, complete, housing, ear plate, impeller, key, o-rigs & seals in it. Had the help of a certified ITT educated (one year) outboard mechanic. Got to the Lake , no water pressure, no pee! Immediately shut it off, loaded it back up & brought back to shop.
Tore it back down, AGAIN!!! Evidently WE (he & I) had missed the impeller key which was stuck in the outlet gap!
Note to Self:
Next time, put the impeller on the shaft with the key in place in place, THEN put the pump housing on. Under the supervision & assistance from this "certified" (he spent a year in the ITT "outboard school" in Florida), he insisted on putting the impeller in the cup & trying to align the key by sliding the pump housing assembly down the shaft. That method may work for some, particularly smaller motors where the impeller is not so big & stiff, but the impeller blades are so stiff, it's off center in the cup.
On the advice of a country boy shade tree mechanic, I put the impeller on the shaft, with the key in place, (which is what I have done in the past with smaller Johnson/Evinrude/OMC motors, many times) then turned the prop in the proper clockwise direction, to get the blades in the cup properly. I used a 5" hose clamp to compress the blades in the correct direction, making sure key was still in place. Finally got the cup to go down after several tries!!
Before I took it to the Lake again, I put the ear muffs on it & fired her up.
Guess what ? It's peeing, but only after the new thermostats open on muffs with 40#'s PSI hose pressure, 65 degree water. Used a infra red heat gauge to measure head temp & it wouldn't pee until heads reached about 165 F, ran it about 10 minutes on the muffs (ample water volume & pressure), & the dash gauge finally got up to about
5 #'s.
DANG! It was better than that before!!
Head temp on the top heads after 5 minutes on the muffs at 1000 rpm, was about 180 - 190 F, a little higher at the block base. BUT, the buzzer never sounded.. I thought 190 was the threshold??
Any body know what the threshold is for the alarm to sound?
Anybody know what the dash pressure gauge should show?
Just to be sure I tested the gauge, it's good.
When I block the pee hole, at 1000 rpm, the dash water pressure increases to about 10 psi (what it was BEFORE I put a new pump in it).
The "Throttle By-pass control valve" is working & not leaking. Book (Factory Service manual) says at 2000 rpm it opens fully to divert water to pee hole. It also says 140 degrees F is operating temp, and the threshold for thermostats to open, and 190 degrees for the horn to sound.
Factory Service manual says nothing about water pressure minimum, nor does it mention a "poppet valve".
Others have said to check that, but I can't find it, nor does the Factory Service Manual mention it.
I think the throttle control valve replaces a normal poppet valve. If there's one on this motor I can't find it.
I'm about to give up & take it to a real shop!
Thank ya'll in advance..
Please help!!
I have a factory manual, but can't find the "factory specs" for water pressure. Anybody know what it's supposed to be?
The water pressure at the dash gauge has only shown about 10 psi at WOT. SOOO, even tho the guy I bought it from said the motor was completely rebuilt, I pulled the foot & put a new, complete, housing, ear plate, impeller, key, o-rigs & seals in it. Had the help of a certified ITT educated (one year) outboard mechanic. Got to the Lake , no water pressure, no pee! Immediately shut it off, loaded it back up & brought back to shop.
Tore it back down, AGAIN!!! Evidently WE (he & I) had missed the impeller key which was stuck in the outlet gap!
Note to Self:
Next time, put the impeller on the shaft with the key in place in place, THEN put the pump housing on. Under the supervision & assistance from this "certified" (he spent a year in the ITT "outboard school" in Florida), he insisted on putting the impeller in the cup & trying to align the key by sliding the pump housing assembly down the shaft. That method may work for some, particularly smaller motors where the impeller is not so big & stiff, but the impeller blades are so stiff, it's off center in the cup.
On the advice of a country boy shade tree mechanic, I put the impeller on the shaft, with the key in place, (which is what I have done in the past with smaller Johnson/Evinrude/OMC motors, many times) then turned the prop in the proper clockwise direction, to get the blades in the cup properly. I used a 5" hose clamp to compress the blades in the correct direction, making sure key was still in place. Finally got the cup to go down after several tries!!
Before I took it to the Lake again, I put the ear muffs on it & fired her up.
Guess what ? It's peeing, but only after the new thermostats open on muffs with 40#'s PSI hose pressure, 65 degree water. Used a infra red heat gauge to measure head temp & it wouldn't pee until heads reached about 165 F, ran it about 10 minutes on the muffs (ample water volume & pressure), & the dash gauge finally got up to about
5 #'s.
DANG! It was better than that before!!
Head temp on the top heads after 5 minutes on the muffs at 1000 rpm, was about 180 - 190 F, a little higher at the block base. BUT, the buzzer never sounded.. I thought 190 was the threshold??
Any body know what the threshold is for the alarm to sound?
Anybody know what the dash pressure gauge should show?
Just to be sure I tested the gauge, it's good.
When I block the pee hole, at 1000 rpm, the dash water pressure increases to about 10 psi (what it was BEFORE I put a new pump in it).
The "Throttle By-pass control valve" is working & not leaking. Book (Factory Service manual) says at 2000 rpm it opens fully to divert water to pee hole. It also says 140 degrees F is operating temp, and the threshold for thermostats to open, and 190 degrees for the horn to sound.
Factory Service manual says nothing about water pressure minimum, nor does it mention a "poppet valve".
Others have said to check that, but I can't find it, nor does the Factory Service Manual mention it.
I think the throttle control valve replaces a normal poppet valve. If there's one on this motor I can't find it.
I'm about to give up & take it to a real shop!
Thank ya'll in advance..
Please help!!
I have a factory manual, but can't find the "factory specs" for water pressure. Anybody know what it's supposed to be?
