lots of surface corrosion on lower unit

limitout

Banned
Joined
Oct 1, 2013
Messages
543
I have an old motor (11yrs) and while I changed oil regularly I never took care of the paint and since its mainly used in salt water ther is a lot of corrosion that peeled off about a good 10-15% of the lower unit paint so im wondering how to go about safely removing it all and neutralizing it so it can be repainted. one problem is the cap on the back of the gear housing is corroded as far as you can see so im guessing it will needreplacing or something that clean it just by soaking it since I cant reach most of it.

can the whole lower unit be soaked in a tub of muratic acid without it hurting the seals and plastic or rubber bits and such

so whats the best option for reconditioning a lower unit with serious surface corrosion issues peeling off a good chunk of the paint job but there is no pitting involved so its all mostly cosmetic at this point.

I was thinking of

a) get a price for an outboard shop to strip down blast and repaint recondition the lower unit
(for this to be done it needs to be at an affordable price)

b) try to do it myself using a drill and a wire wheel to clean it, even though I have never worked on lower units before and give it a new spray can paint job
(I am fairly skilled self taught mechanic)

c) try soaking the whole thing in a big tub with a corrosion eating solution without disassembling it and give it a new spray can paint job

d) I priced buying these shell parts and they will run me $1,000 for everything (tail cap, lower case, lower case cover, new thermostat housing if needed and water pump kit) and I would just have to put my guts into the new housing, something I have never dealt with before.

I don't have pictures but nearly one whole side of the bullet is paintless and the rear cap is paintless then there are a few more quarter sized spots without paint on the opposite side.

I have lots of spare time on my hands but not much money to spend unless 100% absolutely necessary (I can give up some other necessities if I have no choice)

let me say I have rebuilt outboard powerheads before and many motorcycles and car engines and transmitions so im pretty sure I can work on a lower unit once I figure out how to take it apart.
 
Last edited:

JoLin

Vice Admiral
Joined
Aug 18, 2007
Messages
5,146
Re: lots of surface corrosion on lower unit

I wouldn't be soaking the lower unit in any harsh chemicals. Seals and such are designed to resist water, not acid. Shouldn't be a problem with general cleaning (like with a spray bottle) using something acidic as long as you flush it all off there with plenty of fresh water. I guess that'd be step 1.

The lower unit is primarily aluminum, and I'd think some googling will yield good results as to the best way of stripping it down, priming and repainting. Essentially it's like any other 'bodywork'. It's gonna be labor intensive, and I'm sure a wire wheel and sand paper will be necessary to get all the junk off.

I'd also advise that you get in the habit of tilting the lower unit up out of the water when you aren't running the engine.

Good luck!
 

limitout

Banned
Joined
Oct 1, 2013
Messages
543
Re: lots of surface corrosion on lower unit

I'd also advise that you get in the habit of tilting the lower unit up out of the water when you aren't running the engine.

Good luck!

its a trailered boat so it doesn't stay in the water and I do rinse and flush it when I get home
 

Thalasso

Commander
Joined
Jan 18, 2011
Messages
2,879
Re: lots of surface corrosion on lower unit

Sand with aluminum oxide sand paper.( or have it soda blasted). Primer with zinc chromate and paint it. What ever you do never use a wire brush or wheel on aluminum.
 

dingbat

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 20, 2001
Messages
16,904
Re: lots of surface corrosion on lower unit

The best way to deal with it is to have it sand blasted. They'll use walnut shells or glass beads as a media. Spray with zinc chromate primer then top coat with the paint of your choice. It will look as good as new.

What ever you do never use a wire brush or wheel on aluminum.
No problem using SS or brass brushes. No problems using steel on parts that are etched after fabrication.
 
Last edited:

BrianNJ

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Sep 29, 2012
Messages
84
Re: lots of surface corrosion on lower unit

What ever you do never use a wire brush or wheel on aluminum.

I have read this before. Why is this? Does the wire brush leave metal fragments that will cause electrolysis?
 

Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 25, 2004
Messages
28,562
Re: lots of surface corrosion on lower unit

Gee, Each spring I sand the gearcase with fine sandpaper to remove any bad paint and feather the good paint. Then a coat of the Zinc Chromate primer and some gloss black (merc) or gloss white (Johnny) paint and we are ready to run aground for another season....
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,834
Re: lots of surface corrosion on lower unit

Just about every aluminum boat restoration I've seen on here including my own has used a wire wheel on a drill to get corrosion off of the hulls. It also works very well on LU's. I used Heinz vinegar cleaning solution as an acidic cleaner. Self etching primer will also worked very well on my Johnson's LU. I used automotive enamel rusto for the top coat. After a season on the water it still looks new.
 

limitout

Banned
Joined
Oct 1, 2013
Messages
543
Re: lots of surface corrosion on lower unit

Just about every aluminum boat restoration I've seen on here including my own has used a wire wheel on a drill to get corrosion off of the hulls. It also works very well on LU's. I used Heinz vinegar cleaning solution as an acidic cleaner. Self etching primer will also worked very well on my Johnson's LU. I used automotive enamel rusto for the top coat. After a season on the water it still looks new.

vinegar ??? never heard of that before.

it that just a paint prep cleaner or does it work on corrosion?

I want to be sure after its cleaned that the corrosion has been neutralized and stopped because I know its like rust, if you don't get every spec of it it just keeps coming back again and again.

what about the lower unit bullet's back cap behind the prop, I cant get into it to get at the corrosion inside that area so would I be better to just replace it with a new one and have all the lower unit seals replaced at the same time being the motor is almost 12 years old? I assume they dry out or wear out at some point, at $150 its pricey but not too bad if I had to buy it.

I have never torn a lower unit apart so I don't know what it really looks like in your hands so is it a solid hunk of metal? IE the corrosion might look bad but it doesn't wont anything so just scrap off what I can reach and repaint it
 

Thalasso

Commander
Joined
Jan 18, 2011
Messages
2,879
Re: lots of surface corrosion on lower unit

I have read this before. Why is this? Does the wire brush leave metal fragments that will cause electrolysis?

Yep


Surface prep. A lot of options here. If the paint job is original Mercruiser it comes off very easy because Mercruiser has a poor process. You can sand it off for the most part. If you want, you can get some “aircraft stripper” available at most automotive paint stores or Aircraft Spruce. The main difference here is the amount of ammonia in the stripper. What is critical in this process is to place several plastic bags over the input shaft and bearings and the prop shaft and carrier bearings and hold them in place with tape. If you have a nearby facility that does plastic bead blast paint removal, like an aircraft paint shop, they can clean off your drive as well. Just make sure to cover the pitot tube entrance on your drive. DO NOT SODA BLAST. You will make the etching process a very difficult one. Get the drive as best you can down to bare metal. DO NOT USE STEEL BRUSHES, STEEL WOOL, STAINLESS STEEL BRUSHES, etc anywhere, any time. Always use aluminum oxide sandpaper and if you want a “brush” use Scotchbrite pad.
 
Last edited:

limitout

Banned
Joined
Oct 1, 2013
Messages
543
Re: lots of surface corrosion on lower unit

thanks guys, I will keep all this in mind
 
Top