Lost compression on Johnson V4 cylinder

MASTER Brian

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As the title says a buddies V4 Johnson lost compression on the bottom Starboard side cylinder. The others are 105, 112 and 112. I can't tell for certain but it appears there is some small pits on both cylinders on this side as well. My guess is he lost a ring. About 8yrs ago I went through the same thing on my E-XP150 and had to rebuild the entire engine. He's owned the boat about 3 weeks and I know he's a bit cash strapped, so I feel for him. On that note, I'm sure I told him about de-carbing the motor, but of course he didn't listen.....it was running too well!! :facepalm: I learned that lesson when I lost the ring on my motor.

So my question, is it even worth trying to decarb it at this point, is there any chance that ring isn't in a million pieces and is just stuck? It's a 1994 Johnson 140hp. When I lost the ring on my XP150, they sent me what I believe was a V4 gasket kit instead and they didn't want it back, so I still have it and it appears the water jacket and the head gasket are the same, so I'm hoping for his sake he can use this kit....after 8yrs the sticker is worn off and thus I can't see what it exactly fits. I figure first order of business is to pull the head and take a look and go from there, but since it's been 8yrs since I've rebuilt an outboard, I'm going to need a bit of advice.

If, like I suspect, he lost a ring, can we just pull the cylinder, bore/re-sleeve that cylinder and put it back together or should we tear it all apart? I can't remember all the specifics, but I know it's typically not an easy fix.

What about the carbs? Should he rebuild them all or just have them tuned by the shop once all back together?

Like I said I rebuilt my engine myself, it was my 1st and only outboard rebuild and i recall it being a lot of work, but doable for me. Problem is, when I did mine, I know I went above and beyond replacing parts because I didn't want to be back into the motor in a few years and I had the $$$ I could spend. I remember pulling the entire power head, rebuilding carbs, changing the water pump, installing a brand new VRO pump, replaced a few electronics, etc. Once together I opted to pay the shop to sync the carbs and time the motor as it was easier to pay them ~$100 than spending the time to do myself.

***What started this was he mentioned it wasn't running right and that he needed to heli-coil a spark plug thread. He brought the boat by and a glance into the head(s) made me question things and thus I ran a compression test on it. The top cylinder on the starboard side is the one with the bad plug threads....a new plug won't thread, but the old one does. Figure the difference in plugs gasket compression is what makes the difference. Wonder if this had any bearing o
 

Auxlarry

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I would agree that it probably broke a ring!! Pull the bypass cover and check it out!!
 

MASTER Brian

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The bypass cover on this motor had been pulled once before....wondering if they had issues before with something like this and that's why I'm hoping maybe he'll luck out. I'm guessing the bypass cover will tell all. It's been a few years, so I'm having to dig deep into the back of my mind to remember this....
 

1983 ercoa 21'

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Once the bypass cover is pulled you can turn the motor over by hand till you see the rings or the lack of . Even if they are still there take a small flat blade screwdriver put tape over the end and use it to check the rings to make sure they are springy . If they are not it's broken but still in place therefore you might get away with just honing the cylinder and installing new rings.
 

Chinewalker

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Ummm, unless I'm missing something, there is no bypass cover on a 1994 Johnson 140. It is a looper model and the block is cast as one piece. Got a model number?
 

racerone

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Agreed we need a model # or pictures of this motor !!---A 94 is a " looper " style engine.
 

MASTER Brian

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No Title

The model # is J140TLCRD. Can someone explain the difference in a looper style vs the other. My 86 Ranger is an E XP150. Can't recall what that was, but I do recall something about the looper vs non-looper and one being much harder to rebuild, I believe.

In any case, I pulled the water jacket (?) cover off the head as well as the head on the bad side and sure enough the top piston ring on the bottom cylinder, starboard side, caught and actually sheared off a good chunk of the piston. I'm thinking it went right out the exhaust port because there isn't any major pitting on the head and the cylinder wall looks remarkably good consider, though there is a spot where the ring/piston edge caught as it went out.

The other interesting thing is that the top piston looks to be dented in and the edges look a bit rough. The top piston had good compression of about 112psi, which is right where 2 of the others were as well. This cylinder had a stripped spark plug hole....the old plug seems to tighten but can't get a new plug to tighten....figure that's due to compression of the plugs metal gasket.

If there isn't much pitting, is there any chance he could just get by pulling the cylinder, replacing the piston(s)/rings and gaskets and be back in business or should he also still replace all of the bearings and such. Like I said, I did my E XP150, model # J50TLEOD, is there much difference between the two as far as rebuilding goes?
 

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MASTER Brian

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Let's change the motor to 1984, I guess, because it's not pulling up as a 1994.
 

Chinewalker

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Both your XP and this motor are crossflows, so no issue there. Your 140 is basically 2/3 of the XP-150 so you'll be familiar with its innards. You may get by with a honing and new piston in that hole, but you really won't know until you get it apart and can inspect it. It's also common to have only one cylinder bored and an oversize piston installed. If you have a gouge at a port, that may be the route you'll need to go.
 

MASTER Brian

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Spoke with Machine Shop and he recommends 4 new wiseco pistons and to bore all 4 cylinders, possibly machine the head(s) because he said the piston with the caved in top was likely due to a water leak in head gasket. Makes sense because head gasket didn't appear to have been great seal and the water jacket(?) over the head was put on with gasket sealer, so it's apparently had issues before.

I've looked for my old post covering the complete rebuild of my E XP150, but alas can't find it.

I believe I have the complete gasket kit and possibly a thermostat kit. Can anyone else tell me what I need to complete the rebuild properly?

What I know I'll need:
Gasket Kit (which I should have)
4 new pistons w/ rings,wrist pins & clips

Should I buy:
Carb Kit
Needle bearings & retainers (or complete bearing kit)
thermostat

What might I be missing? I know I'll figure it out as we pull this apart, but trying to get him an idea on cost. How important is it to replace all the lower end bearings? Personally, if it were me (and when it was, I did) I'd replace anything and everything like bearings and seals, but that does add up and when money is an object you replace only the essentials.
 

MASTER Brian

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 26, 2006
Messages
738
Spoke with Machine Shop and he recommends 4 new wiseco pistons and to bore all 4 cylinders, possibly machine the head(s) because he said the piston with the caved in top was likely due to a water leak in head gasket. Makes sense because head gasket didn't appear to have been great seal and the water jacket(?) over the head was put on with gasket sealer, so it's apparently had issues before.

I've looked for my old post covering the complete rebuild of my E XP150, but alas can't find it.

I believe I have the complete gasket kit and possibly a thermostat kit. Can anyone else tell me what I need to complete the rebuild properly?

What I know I'll need:
Gasket Kit (which I should have)
4 new pistons w/ rings,wrist pins & clips

Should I buy:
Carb Kit
Needle bearings & retainers (or complete bearing kit)
thermostat

What might I be missing? I know I'll figure it out as we pull this apart, but trying to get him an idea on cost. How important is it to replace all the lower end bearings? Personally, if it were me (and when it was, I did) I'd replace anything and everything like bearings and seals, but that does add up and when money is an object you replace only the essentials.
 

Chinewalker

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Joined
Aug 19, 2001
Messages
8,902
I rarely replace bearings unless there is a clear issue with them - noisy, sloppy, pitted, etc.

Carb kit is a good idea if they haven't been redone recently enough to have ethanol resistant kits in them already (brown/green gaskets at bowl seam). A good idea to go through them, regardless, to check for cleanliness.

Thermostat kit is another good one to do as a matter of course.

Was it ever determined exactly what caused the issue in the first place? Excessive carbon in ring grooves? Overheating? Gummed up carb?
 
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