losing prime and stalling-2000-150 h.p. Johnson

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oddysea1

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I have a 2000-150 h.p. Johnson.The problem has become more consistent and often.The first symptom is attempting to prime the bulb which takes at least twenty or so squeezes.On occasion the prime is lost during an attempted start up and has to be redone.Sometimes after starting the boat may begin to stall early on and priming the bulb again usually prevents a complete stall out.Many times the engines runs fine most of the day with an occasional miss during various speeds again priming the bulb temporarily solves the problem.The issue has become more frequent and priming takes longer to solve the problem.Any advise is appreciated-The engine runs great when it is running. Thank you Andy
 

racerone

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It should not take more than 5 or 6 squeezes.-------Once the carburetors are full the bulb goes hard.-----Once the motor starts cranking or starts the bulb does NOT need to be hard.-------Possibly an air leak in the fuel hose or fuel tank.------What position is the red lever on the primer valve.-----Try a test run with a " known to be good " hose and portable fuel tank.----Model # of your engine ?
 

Joe Reeves

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In agreement with racerone.

It sounds like it could be faulty valves in the fuel primer bulb (not opening and closing properly). Some bulbs with faulty valves will function properly when held vertically with the outlet portion facing up.... others?... best to simply replace the valves or the entire bulb.

Also... (built in fuel tank)... Check the anti siphon valve at the fuel tank (the weird looking aluminum fitting the fuel hose is attached to). That valve may be stuck in the open position or the inner workings have been knocked out which changes the valve into a straight thru fitting. A straight thru scenario would allow fuel to drain back into the tank<-- should this condition exist, replace the Anti Siphon valve.

Another possible scenario is that the fuel pickup inside the tank has a tiny hole in it allowing a air entry point BUT this is highly unlikely as you say when the engine runs, it runs great. More likely the primer bulb, hose, or/and anti siphon valve.
 

oddysea1

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I will investigate some of the more simple and direct suggestions-the season is just starting and the boat is still covered-looking to start engine in next couple of days with a new bulb.I will pop open inspection plate over the tank.[1989 18 ft. Wellcraft center console.Not much room for visual inspection-may have to remove valve from top of tank.The concept I am not familiar with is[the position of red lever on primer valve] could you advice further with more specific info.or guidance Thank you Andy The model is J150VLSIF
 
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racerone

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The red lever should be inline with the valve body ( run position )------If it is not then valve could be open and primer bulb on hose may not go hard.------Fuel would be pumped directly into the engine , bypassing the carburetors.
 

oddysea1

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I apologize for the lack of knowledge could you explain where this red lever and valve body is- along with run position.It does seem that a lot of gas goes into the powerhead-but I get the impression not all into the carburetors.
 

Vic.S

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I apologize for the lack of knowledge could you explain where this red lever and valve body is- along with run position.It does seem that a lot of gas goes into the powerhead-but I get the impression not all into the carburetors.

J150VLSIF makes it a 2001 model ( SI = 2001)

The primer solenoid is mounted on the fuel components bracket

This video explains how it works ( and also how to overhaul it)

 

oddysea1

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I now have several tasks to do in order to address this problem-Thank you for the guidance and head start information-I will let you know how I made out.Regards Andy-Again thank you for your time!
 

weaverunner

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Check for any leaks around the float bowls. If you have the plastic carbs,then those tend to warp over time from use of ethanol gas (and over-torquing). If those check out fine, I would open up the fuel pump and inspect the diaphragm.
 

oldboat1

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Might have some water in the tank. Either pump some into a glass jar using the primer bulb, or draw some up from the bottom through the inspection hole you mention. Let the mix settle out -- water would be visible at the bottom.
 

Joe Reeves

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The concept I am not familiar with is[the position of red lever on primer valve. The model is J150VLSIF

********************
(Fuel Primer Solenoid Function)
(J. Reeves)

The RED lever...... The normal operating/running position is to have that red lever positioned over top of the solenoid and aimed at the other end of the solenoid, gently turned to its stop. This is the normal/automatic mode position. Pushing the key in opens the valve within the solenoid allowing fuel to pass thru it in order to prime and start the engine. Looking upon this solenoid as a electric choke results in a better understanding of it.

Having that red lever turned in the opposite direction, facing away from the solenoid, allows fuel to flow thru it to the crankcase area. One would only turn the red lever to this position in a case where the battery might go dead and the engine had to be started via the rope pull method. Look upon putting the red lever in this position as moving a choke lever on a choke equipped engine to the full closed position. Either one would supply fuel to the crankcase/engine for starting purposes BUT if left in that position while running would flood the engine.

The later model primer solenoids are equipped with a schrader valve, used for attaching a pressurized can of fogging oil etc, available at your local dealership with complete instructions.

Pumping the fuel primer bulb up hard fills the carburetor float chambers of course, but that process also applies fuel pressure to the primer solenoid.

The two small hoses leading from the primer solenoid branch off via tees to each fuel manifold section that would feed fuel to the individual cylinders.

Pushing the key in activates the primer solenoid to allow fuel to flow thru it to the intake manifold passageways. Cranking the engine over causes the fuel pump to engage which in turn sends fuel pulses to the primer solenoid via the 3/8" fuel hose.

Some engines incorporates the "Fast Start" feature which automatically advances the spark electronically so no advance of the throttle is required for starting.
Engines that do not have the "Fast Start" feature will be required to have the throttle advanced slightly.

Starting procedure: pump fuel bulb up hard, crank engine and push the key in at the same time. When the engine fires/starts, release the key so that it falls back to the run position.

Bottom line..... Look upon the primer solenoid as an electric choke.

********************
 

oldboat1

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Just another quick note: Newer carb kits contain float valve needles that require a small wire hook (provided) to insure the needle lifts up when the float rises, opening the valve to allow fuel to enter the bowl. If missing, there can be symptoms of fuel starvation.
 

flukester

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I have a 2000-150 h.p. Johnson.The problem has become more consistent and often.The first symptom is attempting to prime the bulb which takes at least twenty or so squeezes.On occasion the prime is lost during an attempted start up and has to be redone.Sometimes after starting the boat may begin to stall early on and priming the bulb again usually prevents a complete stall out.Many times the engines runs fine most of the day with an occasional miss during various speeds again priming the bulb temporarily solves the problem.The issue has become more frequent and priming takes longer to solve the problem.Any advise is appreciated-The engine runs great when it is running. Thank you Andy
Got the same exact problem with my 2000 Johnson 175! Changed out the water separator, primer bulb(
I have a 2000-150 h.p. Johnson.The problem has become more consistent and often.The first symptom is attempting to prime the bulb which takes at least twenty or so squeezes.On occasion the prime is lost during an attempted start up and has to be redone.Sometimes after starting the boat may begin to stall early on and priming the bulb again usually prevents a complete stall out.Many times the engines runs fine most of the day with an occasional miss during various speeds again priming the bulb temporarily solves the problem.The issue has become more frequent and priming takes longer to solve the problem.Any advise is appreciated-The engine runs great when it is running. Thank you Andy
Got the same exact problem with my 2000 Johnson 175! Cranks fine, runs fine, then after a while after start up give it the gas and she wants to stall, prime the bulb and everything is good, till next time, changed out the fuel line from water separator to motor 21yrs old and was looking bad, changed out the water separator, primer bulb (OEM) and will see what happens next time? Do you ever figure out what was your problem?
 
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