Intoodeeep
Seaman
- Joined
- Aug 13, 2011
- Messages
- 64
I currently am working on a Johnson 1979 235 block that I have just rebuilt (no serial #’s but matching case halves). I am currently using the intake manifold, carburetors (1-3/8) and electronics from a Johnson 1988 175. The engine originally came to me without VRO. It’s a long story and it’s not worth getting into how it all came to be this way. So please bear with me. I have done enough research and spoken with enough people to know this combination will work, but may have to tweak some high speed jetting. I am using low compression heads 323872, 323873, with new standard pistons 3.5”
The problem is, besides having to chart the high speed jetting and purchasing another set of jets, the carburetor float bowls are the plastic ones and they are badly warped. They didn’t leak last used but they did seep badly. Regardless, new float bowls are about $130 each plus all the four jets have to be purchased for each bowl for a total cost of $522 to fix all three carbs. Its flat out cheaper to buy a used set of carbs, but I can’t find the ones in the 1987-1991 175hp year range with aluminum bowls to fix the problem. So I am looking at other carbs.
The 1984-1985 235 carb float bowls look the same. Can I use these or even those carbs and just change the jetting around a little?
The 1986 175 uses the same intake manifold as mine and the 1987-1991 175hp, but has a different part number for the float bowl. Everything else seems to be the same. Is this float bowl the same or not?
Alternatively, the 1980 and 1981 200HP use 1-3/8 carbs too as well as the same low compression heads and pistons. Can I use these carbs and leave the jetting as is? I know the timer base is the same but the rest of the electronics/ignition system are different from the 1988 175hp 35amp system I have and the 1980-1981’s 200hp ignition/electronics 10 amp system. Ideally not having to fool with re-jetting would be ideal. I’m not sure how the check valves and primer setup gets routed in this case because there doesn’t seem to be a place to run it to the top of the carbs.
I am just trying to make this work and come up with the most ideal and cost effective solution. Thanks in advance. Josh
The problem is, besides having to chart the high speed jetting and purchasing another set of jets, the carburetor float bowls are the plastic ones and they are badly warped. They didn’t leak last used but they did seep badly. Regardless, new float bowls are about $130 each plus all the four jets have to be purchased for each bowl for a total cost of $522 to fix all three carbs. Its flat out cheaper to buy a used set of carbs, but I can’t find the ones in the 1987-1991 175hp year range with aluminum bowls to fix the problem. So I am looking at other carbs.
The 1984-1985 235 carb float bowls look the same. Can I use these or even those carbs and just change the jetting around a little?
The 1986 175 uses the same intake manifold as mine and the 1987-1991 175hp, but has a different part number for the float bowl. Everything else seems to be the same. Is this float bowl the same or not?
Alternatively, the 1980 and 1981 200HP use 1-3/8 carbs too as well as the same low compression heads and pistons. Can I use these carbs and leave the jetting as is? I know the timer base is the same but the rest of the electronics/ignition system are different from the 1988 175hp 35amp system I have and the 1980-1981’s 200hp ignition/electronics 10 amp system. Ideally not having to fool with re-jetting would be ideal. I’m not sure how the check valves and primer setup gets routed in this case because there doesn’t seem to be a place to run it to the top of the carbs.
I am just trying to make this work and come up with the most ideal and cost effective solution. Thanks in advance. Josh