Link & sync '89 48 spl questions

[Beck]

Thanks to those who have helped.<br /><br />'89 48spl Mod.# J48ESLCER SER.# G02490337<br /><br />Few more questions, I have done the search for link and sync and read many forumn responses also read my seloc manual (not very explanatory, somewhat confusing)<br /><br />Now OMC dealer sold me the QL78YC plugs that I have in my motor now. (Selco manual says they should be L77JC4 Perhaps my plugs superceed them). Also the manual says spark gap should be .040" I think my plugs are .030" (not positive)<br /><br />OMC dealer says my motor should run wot 5400 rpm. Selco manual says 5000 rpm??<br /><br />Now about link and sync Selco manual says something about Pickup location (D) between marks? And Primary adj. note on starboard side loosen throttle are screw and move roller inward or outward to align with the mark on the cam. <br />pg. 5-75 <br /><br />Now I just checked the operation of my throttle and all the movements, timming and fuel. I did notice on the black plastic cam that moves the carbs there is a line on it pretty close to where the carb roller hits it. It is off about an eight of an inch. Should that be lined up? Also on the throttle mechanism there is another black plastic piece that is activated by the throttle linkage, the roller cam for the timming is in a oblong opening, this opening activates the timming linkage. Well there are two arrows that you would think the timming roller should be at the arrows. Is all of this initial settings in neutral?<br /><br />I located a stop adjustment screw with lock nut for what looks like "idle" timing adjustment. What should idle timming be? And I think I saw another one that would be for wot timming. <br /><br />What I am confused about is what determines how far the throttle handle goes. When I go to wot my carb baffles to too far and I hear the engine bog slightly then I just back up the lever and the engine picks up to max rpm 5400. <br /><br />What stops the throttle lever at wot, something in the control box? Or adjustments on the engine.<br /><br />Sorry for the long post. I thought about bringing it to the marine shop. But with a little help I know I can adjust it. I have a timming light. With the forumn help we fixed my last problem.<br /><br />Thanks,<br />Beck<br /><br />Ps: Thanks for prev. info, Fireman57, Gil009, RJohnsom, Solittle

 

[WillyBWright]

Re: Link & sync '89 48 spl questions

To get to the spot where you set the pick-up point, move the cam to where you get a straight line from the marks on the cam and roller. I believe the spec for the distance between the cam and roller at that point should be .020". The throttle should idle slightly before that point, so don't set the idle stop so that those lines are lined-up. Those are only reference marks.<br /><br />Either set of sparkplugs will work fine. The Y spec means the electrode protrudes into the cylinder a bit further. That can mean a better burn. The Q spec is for radio interference supression which is a good thing if you have any electronics. 77 and 78 are plenty close to eachother as a heat range. The remote control won't have an idle or WOT setting. That's all on the motor. The only thing you can set on the remote is lever friction. For the rest I'd have to refresh my memory with a manual, but I'm sure somebody will help. <br /><br />I wish I had the manual, but I'd believe 5400. I'd have thought it 5500, but that 100 difference might be the difference between 50Hp and 48Hp.<br /><br />Reminds me of an interesting story. Mercury used to make a model called a Hurricane. It was rated at 11Hp @ 4800 RPMs. But it would easily turn out 18Hp 6000 RPMs. It was designed to run at 6000. It was rated at 4800 because that's what Johnnyrude was running at the time. Old Carl was able to cheat the horsepower ratings this way. He played with those figures alot!

 

[Walker]

Re: Link & sync '89 48 spl questions

I think your motor has a clear nylon bushing on the throttle linkage roller where it rides on the cam. Make sure its there before you start making any adjustments.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Link & sync '89 48 spl questions

The cam markings, carb butterflies, and timing are all part of the link & sync process. You can't just guess at this. You need a manual! Everything you told us indicates this process has not been completed correctly. There are also some linkage measurements (between ball joints) that neet to be taken into consideration. Clymer manuals have a very good description of this process.

 

[Beck]

Re: Link & sync '89 48 spl questions

Thanks for the responses,<br />Can't respond yet comp. messed up.

 

[Beck]

Re: Link & sync '89 48 spl questions

Willy..<br />I'm not really sure what you mean by pick-up point. I do have 2 arrows on the the cam and a roller in between them that seem to line up in nutral. IDLE timing seems to be set by the top "Bolt and nut adj. stop" (with 2 black adj. swival snaps).<br /> <br />What is the timing at idle?<br /><br />Max timing @ wot seems to be set by bottom "Bolt and nut adj. stop": would that be adj. for the 19 degree?<br /><br />Is the same "Bolt and nut adj. (bottom one) the thing that will stop the throttle advance, at wot?<br /><br /><br />Walker<br />Both rollers, carb and timing advance, are there and they are black.<br /><br /><br />Upinsmoke<br />I understand what you are saying and I have never done the link and sink on this engine. It has run fine for years, until recently I replaced the power-pak. I figure I need to check it now, that what all the questions are about. <br /><br />I have the seloc manual and its not very informative. I should have bought the oem but had ordered the manual before reading all the post.<br /><br />I have read somewhere that you run the engine aprox. 3500 rpm which would be full advance timing then check the timing, is this correct. It said to stop engine and make 1 turn at a time then check again. I think 1 turn cw for 1 degree. Does this sound right?<br /><br /><br />For my carb overtravel, I readjusted the throttle swival because before having a manual I remember adjusting it (incorectly) to try to raise the idle. I have adjusted it to where it is in line with the mark on the cam at idle. And when all is adjusted, link and sync I will adjust the idle slightly with the low speed jets.<br /><br /><br />Thanks, <br />Beck<br /><br />Ps: Went and looked at a '01 16'60" bottom, 28" sides, allweld with a '01 60hp Johnson and magic tilt, suppose to have low hours looks very new. He wants $5500 but I think he will take $5100.<br /><br />Any opinions would be appreciated.<br /><br />Is this engine ok? not one of the ones that got OMC in trouble.<br /><br />Thanks again!

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Link & sync '89 48 spl questions

I hate to say this but the set up on this engine is five pages long in the Clymer manual and unless you do these adjustments in the proper sequence you will only create additional problems. Since you messed with the throttle rod swivel, you really need to start from scratch. Head for the library and check out a Clymer manual or buy one on e-bay. It's essential if you want to do your own work. (Please don't ask for copies of procedures from manuals -- they are copyrighted).

 

[Cheshirecat]

Manual for 48 hp Johnson are available downloadable on line for small price.

 

[juno pierrat]

here is the sync n link on video from the factory on VHS tape Thank you Brandon's Garage on youtube [h=1]Linkage Adjustments: 1989 and Newer 40, 48, 50 HP Johnson / Evinrude[/h] and still get a manual

 

[racerone]

That was a post from 2004 ??---Me thinks the issue was resolved a while ago.-----BOOM