"Light force" - Gimbal & Engine Alignment Question

gwa584

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Jun 30, 2008
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Hi - reading the various posts on doing a gimbal bearing/engine alignment and using the alignment tool (which I have), I have two questions:

1. It seems some people say to put the bar through just the bearing and tap around a bit first (vs. adjusting the front engine mount) - is this right or is that just to make sure the gimbal bearing is centered in its carrier? (It would seem that if you get alignment by adjusting the bearing, once you put the outdrive on, it would just possible adjust back because the U-joints would slightly cocked otherwise, no?)

2. What should be the max 'reasonable force' for pushing in an alignment bar if things are aligned ok (once through the bearing but not yet in the coupler) - one finger's pressure? full-hand force? I'm able to get it in but it definitely stops first when it gets to the coupler (and drive does the same). Once alignment bar is in, it seems to rotate pretty smoothly with no 'scratching' sounds or resistance, but i'm worried just because it doesn't push all the way in the first time smoothly with really light pressure (more than the o-rings on the shaft could be causing).

Thoughts? Thanks!

Background:
I have a 1987 Four Winns 170 Candia deck boat with a 165hp Mercruiser/Mercury Marine inline 4-cylinder/224cid engine, with a close cooling system and an Alpha One (Gen I) outdrive. Serial numbers as follows:
- Mercruiser Drive Unit Serial #: 0B701774
- Mercruiser Engine Serial #: B731211
 

Bondo

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Re: "Light force" - Gimbal & Engine Alignment Question

Ayuh,...

1),.. Only on a New bearing installation is centering the bearing necessary....

2),.. You shouldn't be able to Feel the transistion from the bearing to the coupler...
 

jerryjerry05

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Re: "Light force" - Gimbal & Engine Alignment Question

Use a light and look inthe hole.It should be lined up close.New gimbal might need adjusting.Some force might be needed to initally insert tool.Once it's aligned there will still be some resistance.
Put grease on the end of the tool.Push it in until it stops.Remove and see where the grease is moved.If it is close and goes in check the end of tool for spline marks.They shoud be uniform all the way around the end of the tool. Too light on one side then adjust until it looks even all the way around. Jerry
 

gwa584

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Re: "Light force" - Gimbal & Engine Alignment Question

It IS a new gimbal bearing...I knew I forgot to mention something.

It appears to be fully and correctly installed in terms of being straight-in and bottomed-out in the bore, so you're saying it's okay if the middle part of it may still need adjustment?

If so, is lightly hammering on the end of the alignment bar the right way to do it? My lower unit came off easily initially so would that generally mean the engine itself should/could be fairly well-aligned but just the bearing itself is off? How much can/should you expect to adjust the gimbal bearing itself?

Thanks for any help!
 

Bondo

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Re: "Light force" - Gimbal & Engine Alignment Question

It IS a new gimbal bearing...I knew I forgot to mention something.

Ayuh,....

It might take a few serious Jerks,+ Slams with your hands to get it centered in it's gimbel,....
Then continue as described by Jerry.....
 

bamadave

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Re: "Light force" - Gimbal & Engine Alignment Question

As Bond-O said slam it, not hammer it. It can be a pain.
 

JustJason

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Re: "Light force" - Gimbal & Engine Alignment Question

after you get the bearing aligned by banging it... its a 3 finger rule from then on out....
can you easily slide the bar through the coupler with just your thumb and first 2 fingers??? if not... alignment is out.
 

gwa584

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Jun 30, 2008
Messages
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Re: "Light force" - Gimbal & Engine Alignment Question

Thanks to everyone for their help...and definitely glad I asked as my "reasonable/light force" meant something entirely different so I would have been cruising for a burned-up-coupler in no-time. :)

Got the boat on the lake just last night and while I haven't opened her up all the way yet (as my temp gauge or temp sender or both seem to suddenly be inoperative), with cautious optimism I'll call the gimbal and bellows replacement a success.
 
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