a lot of them have lifting rings on top of the block, if not get a lifting ring, and a cherry picker, if you do not have a good beam and come-a-long. i like cherry picker, because the motor can hang in place, while i change the plate.
I used a lifting eye and a harmonic balancer puller. I purchased the puller from Northern Tools and Equipment. The lifting eye was purchased from ebay. I also built a gantry crane out of 4 x 4's and purchased a cheap chain hoist off ebay. All worked great. I hung the chain hoist from the gantry with a 6,000lb tow strap that was also purchased from ebay.
I modified a hand truck to accomodate an outboard. Basically I welded a framework so that the horizontal "flats" of the lower unit (just above the prop, without the prop on) rest on horizontal bars. I used 1" square steel and welded it together (Email] for pics). ( EDIT: email address not allowed. TD)
The beauty of this setup is that I can grab the motor from the back and move it from transom to stand and vice versa. All I do is tilt the boat in the trailer using the front stand to adjust the height, get it at the right height and snatch it off with this hand truck setup
I'd like to see some bigger photos of that, can you enlarge them? I need a way other than my aging back to heft 35-40 hp older OMC's on and off my boat.
The OMC/BRP lifting ring and lifting eye are part numbers 307636 and 321537, respectively. You also need to purchase grade 8 bolts to fit your flywheel.
Thanks for your responses. I was finally able to get around to installing the new jack plate yesterday. I was not able to find the puller but was able to find bolts and a metal plate that worked just fine. I really thought the job would only take about 3 to 4 hours, as I only had to take off 8 bolts (4 on the old jack plate and 4 on the transom). Well as usual it took twice as long as expected. The top two bolts that hold the motor to the jack plate would not move. I was able to take the nuts off, but the bolt heads had to be cut off. Is this normal, what would cause the bolt to freeze up like that?
Any way all this work leads to my next question. When I lowered the motor tilt before lifting the motor a little water and oil from the lower unit came out of the exhaust on the prop. Does this mean the seals on the lower unit need to be replaced?
A cheap elec impact driver from autozone would have zipped those bolts out, 5200 is tenacious stuff but the driver gets em out....if you can get at them.
to remove my motor, i parked my boat under a big tree limb that was 10 feet high or so, and wrapped a chain around that limb, and attached a come along type winch to the tree, and the other end to the hook on the motor.
Then you can move the boat, and lower the motor into the boat, or where ever you want to temporaly store it.
David, you need to pressure/vacuum test the LU to find the source of the leak (can be drive shaft or shift shaft seals) from where you said you found the oil. The other possible location is the prop shaft seals. Drain the gear oil and apply no more than 15 psig ... a good LU will retain some pressure for at least 45 minutes. Submerge in H2O to find the leak source.
