spartanpele
Petty Officer 2nd Class
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2005
- Messages
- 183
This is a follow up thread to the spark plugs and solenoid thread...<br /><br />Last night I started working on the electrical again. I started by taking off and cleaning the different electrical components (battery, solenoid, starter switch, laynard safety switch, shifting neutral switch.)<br /><br />When I came to the laynard safety switch, I noticed something odd...or at least it seems odd to me. I completely removed the switch, and tested the switch using a multimeter. The switch has two outside flanges and two inside flanges. When hooked up to the two outside flanges, the circuit was closed without the cup attached. When the button was depressed, the switch still showed a closed circuit... hmmm.. Then I tested the inside flanges. When the cup wasn't attached, the circuit was open. When the button was depressed, the circuit was closed... hmmm<br /><br />I'm assuming that the circuit s/b open unless the cup is attached, right? So I attached the wires back to the inside flanges and gave the motor a test in a tub. The engine wouldn't start. <br /><br />* So I removed the cup (allowing the botton to spring back up) and the engine started!? <br /><br />So I simply left the rope/cup/laynard off and the engine would start and stop with the igniton switch every time.<br /><br />So what gives? Is the laynard switch bad, or do I have it hooked up wrong? Right now I'm leaning towards not fooling with it and simply leaving it alone without the laynard attached. Can I do that legally? <br /><br />The only thing I can think of is that the switch is bad, either that or its supposed to be opposite meaning that when the cup is attached, the engine isn't grounded out, but when its detached it automatically completes the circuit grounding out the engine. Does that sound right?<br /><br />btw: The engine itself sounded pretty good, but I still need to install the exhaust tube seal when the parts come in.<br /><br />Thanks!