Latest problem: water in cylinder

[rufnek100]

This is my first boat (and probably my last at this rate) and have only had it for about three months. 1993 Baja 24' Outlaw with 502 mag - the motor was new two seasons ago and has less than 30 hours on it since then, but that hasn't seemed to matter (so much for the "sweetheart deal"). Btw - the test drive went well and the boat ran great (that day).<br /><br />Anyway, after numerous trailer issues I finally got it on the water. The boat was over revving and not wanting to plane out. An engine coupler later (& $800), I'm back out. This time, I have overheating problems (alarm goes off and I shut the engine down soon thereafter). A new impeller later, I'm back out and now the engine is running very rough. The marina mechanic tells me that the #1 cylinder is now pumping water and could be a blown head gasket. Now I'm hearing that the head gasket looks okay and he needs to magnaflux the head (his opinion is most likely a cracked head)...<br /><br />Here's the deal: the engine ran fine the few times I had it out (maybe one hour total run time) before the engine coupler was replaced - are these problems (other than the trailer, obviously) related or do I just have rotten luck? Also, I know auto engines but the marine variety is a new animal to me and I feel very vulnerable. Could someone out there give some input on whether or not my mechanic is trying to snow me? Where is the water in the cylinder coming from (he says it's a lot) if the head gasket looks okay?<br /><br />And I almost forgot: the power steering quit working the same day as the overheat and the mechanic says the tach is acting up now. Whew!<br /><br />I'd be happy to provide more info on the problems if needed for clarification...

 

[qystan]

Re: Latest problem: water in cylinder

Its hard to tell if your mech is trying to snow you. It may all be true as I had a very similar situation. Started with a leaking upper drive seal. When it was finally fixed, engine ran ok for 2 occasions, then the oil filter blew a pin hole and lost all oil. Immediate shutdown, no damage. Next week engine couldn't start, hydraulic lock due to water in #7 cylinder. Waited for new head, finally installed but 1 head bolt thread in block stripped. had to get helicoil kit. Finally fixed that. Took boat out on Monday, cross-brearing threw clip, crunched up the gimbal housing, tore new bellow. Now waiting for spares. Boats!

 

[flashback]

Re: Latest problem: water in cylinder

Has your Mech checked the exhaust manifolds or risers for leaks or cracks, many times they will cause water in the cylinders...the over heating issue most likly caused the rough running and water intrusion. the head could very well be cracked and since it is off the engine you may as well have it magnafluxed...might want to check for water in the oil also....... good luck

 

[rufnek100]

Re: Latest problem: water in cylinder

Thanks for the info - I'll ask my my mech about the exahust. A little help for the newbie, please: what's the difference between an exhaust manifold and riser (or is it the same thing by a different name)?<br /><br />I guess a shop manual would be in order for me - any suggestions on good ones? The motor is not original, though (Rocky Mountain Marine).<br /><br />Also - the petcock on the exhaust manifold wasn't closed all the way from whoever de-winterized and it was blowing discharge water into the compartment instead of out the pipes (deep enough to reach the starter). Could that have caused the boat to get low enough to take on water through the exhaust (thru-hull)?<br /><br />There was no typical "chocolate milk" visible externally, but I didn't think to pull the dipstick at the time (due to frustration). My experience with auto engines is that if it's a cracked head/block or blown gasket it usually blows contaminated oil all over the engine. Am I mistaken?

 

[yoced]

Re: Latest problem: water in cylinder

The riser is bolted to the top of your exhaust manifolds. The purpose is to get the highest point of the exhaust system to be at least 14" above the static water line. <br /><br />Anything that makes your boat heavier will cause that 14" to shrink, but my guess is that you did not get that low.<br /><br />More likely the lack of water moving through the manifolds (either the bad impeller or the open drain can be considered sufficient for this)caused them to crack on the inside - which will lead to water going into your cylinders and a very rough running engine. <br /><br />And, I believe the milkshake will stay in the engine more often than ON it.

 

[rufnek100]

Re: Latest problem: water in cylinder

Turns out it's a warped head - guess that's better than a cracked head. Currently milling...<br /><br />Manifolds/risers appear to be okay and just a small amount of water in the oil.<br /><br />Thanks to everyone for the advice - I don't feel like a total idiot when talking to the mechanic now!<br /><br />Can someone recommend a good brand of shop manual?

 

[flashback]

Re: Latest problem: water in cylinder

rufnek, I use a clymer, but it has its faults, if you get seloc,(i think thats the name) it is a little better, but still has its faults, I honestly have never seen a "mercrusier shop manual" like the pros use so I don't know... Any is better than none.....good luck

 

[Martin Leaney]

Re: Latest problem: water in cylinder

I bought the Mercruiser manuals - one for the engine & one for the drive. They seem to be good but they are expensive. <br />Oh and make sure you read and follow ALL instructions or you may end up with a cracked block or some other ailment like I did in my first year of Boat Owner College.

 

[rufnek100]

Re: Latest problem: water in cylinder

Thanks for the advice on manuals - I haven't picked one up yet but will probably go with the Mercrusier. The incremental cost seems like cheap insurance when it comes to knowledge...<br /><br />Back to the issue of the warped head. My mechanic told me that it wasn't warped too bad and it's at the machine shop getting milled down. Correct me if I'm wrong, but won't that change the cylinder compression? If so, won't that mean both heads will need to machined in order to keep the compression consistent on both sides of the block? He didn't mention anything about the other head (which is still on the engine).

 

[flashback]

Re: Latest problem: water in cylinder

were only talking a few thousandths of an inch, that won't make a nickels worth of difference, but on the other hand, if you do a valve job on one head and not the other, it could make a big difference......good luck

 

[rufnek100]

Re: Latest problem: water in cylinder

Flashback - not sure if a valve job's in order. The engine's only got about 20-odd hours on it, so I doubt it unless the seats were damaged in the overheat (and apparently it passed the magnaflux). Is that a logical line of thinking?

 

[sculbert]

Re: Latest problem: water in cylinder

Did your Power Steeering quit from a belt being thrown? If so you also lost your Water Pump at the same time and would explain the overheating. that would explain the warped head as well. This could also come form the impeler issue. Good Luck!

 

[rufnek100]

Re: Latest problem: water in cylinder

That certainly would explain a lot, but alas no - the belt was intact. I'm thinking that when they bumped the engine during the coupler installation (hard enough to gash the fuel line, see intial post), they probably bumped the PS unit hard enough to misalign the shaft/pulley, which in turn caused the bearings to give out shortly thereafter. Unfortunately, there's no way to prove that so I'm most likely going to get stuck for a new PS unit. Live and learn...<br /><br />I thought boats were supposed to be (at least a little) fun?!?