LAst two questions for the weekend

[mark in new jersey]

Last 2 questions....I promise!

1.) throttle cam on magneto:

I've seen this picture a million places,and I "get it"...

...except my throttle cam is held on with slotted screws.

To adjust it, I need to somehow get a screwdriver up under there, and no mater which way I turn the engine, there's no way to align a screwdriver to loosen the screws.

Unless anyone has a suggestion, I need to remove the flywheel & magneto..I would really like to avoid that! Suggestion?

2.) the tiller gear doesn't mesh worth a darn to the mating gear. I have everything assembled correctly (according to my not-model-specific service manual, as aided by my model-specific exploded diagrams), and the meshing stinks.

Could it be that these gears are simply shot? They don't look too bad.....they just don't engage well.

Pics later, if they'll help...

 

[Sea18Horse]

Re: LAst two questions for the weekend

Unfortunately I think you're gonna need to remove the mag plate and get the proper screws in there. Chances are someone in the past has used the wrong screws in the wrong spots under there There are several. It's hard enough to reach with a wrench in most cases.

As for the tiller gears, Are these the ones in the tiller arm pivot point? Or the ones that mesh to the vertical shaft? I'm not familiar with what's used for the 53. But I didn't like the stamped tiller arm pivot gears in my 56 10 horse. I replaced them with the 57 and later cast version from a 58 parts motor. Much better. If it's the ones that mesh to the vertical shaft one needs to make sure the bushing for the vertical shaft gear is ok. And all the bushings on the horizontal shaft are ok and that the shim/spacer is there behind the horizontal gear. Good luck!

Cheers..................Todd

 

[mark in new jersey]

Re: LAst two questions for the weekend

Sadly, I've come to the same conclusion: I need to (re)pull the flywheel & mag plate ....and replace those slot screws with hex head.

The poorly-meshing gears are the ones at the pivot point where the tiller meets the frame. They're stamped bronze gears, and they just feel like they have seen better days.

Later motors had cast gears? I need to research that! Sounds like a good answer. Thanks! Would you happen to know the part numbers?

 

[tx1961whaler]

Re: LAst two questions for the weekend

All mine have slotted screws. All have been able to be adjusted with a right angle screwdriver. Hex heads will probably hang up somewhere during rotation.

 

[Sea18Horse]

Re: LAst two questions for the weekend

Well the gears aren't available separately. They come with their respective shafts. For a 57 18 horse the part number is 376692 for the short shaft. And 376691 for the long (arm) shaft. No idea if the shafts are the same or if they're available anymore. A salvage yard might be a better option? Good luck!

Cheers.................Todd

 

[mark in new jersey]

Re: LAst two questions for the weekend

All mine have slotted screws. All have been able to be adjusted with a right angle screwdriver. Hex heads will probably hang up somewhere during rotation.

I feel like an idiot.

I'm embarrassed to say that I never even thought of using an offset (right angle) screwdriver!

DOH!

As for the "better gears"...are the '57 shafts the same length as the '53's? Will these be compatible?

 

[mark in new jersey]

Re: LAst two questions for the weekend

progress....

1.) with an offset screwdriver, I got the screws loose...but getting them tight with an offset was tough. So I just replaced them with some SS 10-24 x 1/4" cap screws. Tightening / adjusting with an allen wrench will be simple..

2.) with a well-placed washer on the shaft behind the gear, I was able to mesh the tiller gears so that they don't slip. I'm still not wild about the stamped bronze gears, but I'm good enough for now. After I get this thing running, I can think about upgrading to cast gears. But for now, they mesh soundly without any binding.

One follow-up tiller question: How hard should the tiller handle throttle grip be to twist? Nothing's binding anywhere, but the cumulative resistance of the many moving parts makes the handle kind of tough to twist. Not hard, not like anything is straining.....but not a "free turning handle" by any stretch. Is that right?

This got me to thinking....nowhere have I read anything about greasing any of these components on reassembly. Not the magneto plate on the crank bearing, not the linkage joint points, not the pinion gears on the vertical transfer bar and not on the bronze gears in the tiller.

Should this stuff all be "dry"?

 

[kfa4303]

Re: LAst two questions for the weekend

Hi mark. glad you figured out your earlier problem. those little hex head/flathead screws are always pesky to get to. everybody has there own trick/solution. as far as the twist goes. it should be pretty light and smooth even with "dry" linkages. some folks grease them up, but you don't need much, if any usually. if you check out you tube vids for your motor you might get a feel for how smooth it should be. it should have about the same amount of resistance as you get from a normal door knob (if that makes sense). I would go back through all the linkages again, again and be sure nothing is getting hung up. I'm sure it's just something little.