Kill switch problem (Johnson 1984 50hp)

[numitoros]

Hi everyone. Im trying to get my trusted Johnson 50 to start. I think I have narrowed it down to the kill switch circuit, and Im trying to work my way down the CDI trouble shooting guide step by step. The first step is:

1. Disconnect the Black/Yellow stop wire AT THE POWER PACK and retest. If the engine’s ignition has spark, the stop circuit has a fault. Check the key switch, harness and shift switch.

Two questions:
* Disconnect styp wire "AT THE POWER PACK": How would I do this? All cables just go directly into the pack, and there is no way to disconnect the Black/Yellow cable. Should I disconnect the cable from the harness plug (where it ends up). Or something else?

* Check the key switch, harness and shift switch: trying to figure out what the "shift switch" is, and where to find it on my outboard. Any hints?

Thanks!

 

[racerone]

There is a " start / crank " in neutral only switch inside the control box.----It has nothing to do with " no spark condition "----Remove spark plugs.---Separate the big red plug.----Pull the motor over with a rope.----Spark should jump a gap of 3/8" with ease.-----Starter motor must be in good condition.-----Battery must be load tested.----If flywheel turns slow there will be no spark !

 

[numitoros]

Thanks.

The starter works just fine, as does the battery. The flyweel spins as normal. There is no spark on any cylinder. Basically step 2, alternative 1 of the FAQ guide.

My questions are based on the CDI trouble shooting guide for this particular outboard. page 39.

 

[racerone]

Good luck with your trouble shooting then.---Or just replace the powerpack.----It fixes the issue 9 times out of 10.

 

[440roadrunner]

These things change and I don't have experience with the newer ones. So take this as it is.... I have one twin around 76? and the kill circuit grounds like the old mags. On that one the CABLE WAS WET going up front. This cable came out of a boat I bought and had been routed "dangling" down into the bilge, and then "typically" stored outdoors with the drain plug installed. Sometimes it would run and sometimes not. Pulling the remote cable cleared the problem. Jumper power to the starter and it makes all kinds of spark.

The bad cable did not show up on a conventional ohmeter, but did show up on a "megger" which is a high voltage resistance tester