Keeping the Rain Out! SS16

renns

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Dec 20, 2017
Messages
316
What are the thoughts on keeping the rainwater out of the boat when sitting with mooring cover installed? A full storage cover with sides that drape over the hull would sort that out of course, but I'm wondering about successful diversion of rainwater with a mooring cover alone. On my hull, the tops of the gunnels are flat, with an extruded aluminum rub-rail trim on both inside and outside edge. The typical mooring cover terminates on the flat, dumping all that rainwater on the gunnel. The rub-rail trims now effectively make a 'canal' for the water to flow down along the gunnel top, until it leaks over the sides, or hits the transom corner cap at the back. I'm thinking the outer rubrail trim doesn't need sealant, as any water that migrates under will just drip down the outside of the hull where it belongs. The other areas are where I have some questions:

1.) The pic here shows the inner and outer rubrail trim extrusions. Water will flow aft following green arrow. Note that the same profile runs all the way to the transom, but isn't installed aft of the console in this pic. I simply riveted this trim down to the top of the gunnel without sealant. There was no sign of sealant used prior, but I'm thinking perhaps I should remove and reinstall with a strip of butyl, or polyurethane sealant to keep the gunnel water from leaking underneath, and down the inner sides of the gunnels in the red areas shown below. Thoughts?
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2.) How is the water flow handled when it reaches the transom corner cap? I'm thinking that area should be sealed well to either prevent water intrusion below the cap, or alternatively forced to make its way to the aft edge of the transom, where it an spill overboard. I've used Nautolex on the gunnel tops up to about midships, and wish I'd left it run just a bit long so it could hang over the transom at the back, allowing water to flow overboard under the transom cap. Port side shown in the pic isn't bad, but the other side is trimmed a bit short.
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Your typical fiberglass hull has sloped sides, so the mooring cover automatically discharges that water overboard. See random pic below. It's a rainy day, so as I look out my office, my subconscious is thinking about this boat project and keeping my hard work dry!

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Moserkr

Chief Officer + Starmada Splash Of The Year 2021
Joined
Nov 23, 2020
Messages
837
If I were doing my boat again AND planned on it being on a mooring with cover, I would definitely seal that inner splash guard trim piece. As far as the rear caps go, Id just seal is all up as best as possible and attempt to get the water to not flow into the boat. A design issue you have little control over now it seems.
 

renns

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Dec 20, 2017
Messages
316
Thanks, I've been wondering about this issue for a while and haven't seen it mentioned. If my calculations are correct, a 1" rainfall will result in something over 30 gallons of water falling on the boat. Getting that water overboard directly rather than ending up in the bilge is a major concern for me, as our boat will be in the water for 6 months or more at a time.
I've ordered a roll of 3/4" x 1/8" butyl tape, and will remove the rivets in those inner rubrails, apply the tape, and re-install. Wish I would have thought of that earlier! In any case, that should hopefully result in a waterproof joint and avoid the squeeze-out mess of 5200 or equivalent.
 

ShoestringMariner

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Apr 18, 2015
Messages
1,572
Butyl tape is a great idea. I like your idea of leaving the nautolex long over the end.

Can you lift a bit of the nautolex on the short side and scab a patch piece in underneath? The corner cap should cover the seam, no?

Any chance you can drill a hole or groove a channel in the end cap to allow any water pooling against the end cap to flow through to drip down the transom?
 

renns

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Dec 20, 2017
Messages
316
Butyl tape is a great idea. I like your idea of leaving the nautolex long over the end.

Can you lift a bit of the nautolex on the short side and scab a patch piece in underneath? The corner cap should cover the seam, no?

Any chance you can drill a hole or groove a channel in the end cap to allow any water pooling against the end cap to flow through to drip down the transom?
All good ideas, thanks! The end cap on mine doesn't fit snug, so there's already adequate gap for water to flow underneath. I'll do the Nautolex scab idea with a bit of scrap, just to ensure things flow the right way.
 

renns

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Dec 20, 2017
Messages
316
I dug out the transom corner cap from my box of hardware, and noticed a few things of interest. I'm not sure if this is the same as the Starcraft part (my boat is Aluminum Goods Corp hull from the 70's, an SS16 knockoff).
1.) The corner cap has cast-in grooves that channel the overflow water back and over the top of the transom - cool! So sealing up the inboard gunnel top trim will be critical to keeping water out, as well as sealing the area under the cap at the top of the transom, again to keep the water from dribbling down inside the boat once it gets to the back. The big slot in the middle of the cap should then be able to direct that water overboard at the transom.
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2.) Two of the mounting screws go down into the top of the gunnel, creating potential leak points. It was much worse on the port side, where a home-made corner replacement was fit, with extra holes drilled for mounting. The original holes were left open, draining the rainwater from the port side down the inside of the transom and into the bilge. Coincidentally, this is the corner of the transom that was rotted the most.
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Butyl tape is on order from the Amazons. Once it arrives, the inboard trim rivets will be removed, butyl applied, and then trim re-installed. Here's hoping that makes a good water-tight seal. Under the transom cap some extra work will be needed - perhaps scabbing on an extra strip of Nautolex on the side where it terminates a bit early, and building a dam of Polyurethane from the end of the trim to the aft edge of the transom, keeping the water heading the desired direction.
 

ShoestringMariner

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Apr 18, 2015
Messages
1,572
I think these were better built boats than Starcrafts to be honest. (Guys don’t roast me for this) I especially like the way the console flows over The top of the gunnel, and it’s stronger attachment, and these gunnel/transom corner caps are a much better design.
If memory serves me the Starcraft caps do not have any flow channels. So water either builds until it can spill over, or at leaks down into the boat.
 

Moserkr

Chief Officer + Starmada Splash Of The Year 2021
Joined
Nov 23, 2020
Messages
837
Yea…. Water along my gunnel would flow directly into the corner cap then down the transom wood into the bilge. Only saving grace is she is a fair weather trailer queen for now. Will keep all this in mind if she ever needs this issue fixed. Those channels in the corner caps look like a great idea!
 
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