JW-10 will start, then die.

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Aficio

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Joined
Jun 10, 2021
Messages
21
I took off the prop of my Jw10 to run it and make sure it would work before I a couple of hours to use it. It started fine, water was coming out and it was idling and would come up to a higher speed. adjusted too far and got a miss-like sound out of it. Then it shut down like it was not getting fuel and missing still. I shut everything down and the next morning put my inline spark tester on and fired it up it was sparking well so I shut it off and switched it to the other side. both sides were creating a solid orange light. but it again shut off and did not want to idle, it would start then shut down, I found to start it I had to move the lever too fast to even get it started. I opened the bowl and checked it, it had fuel and I shot a little canned air through the jet on the bottom of the bowl and heard the air escaping. put it back together and it still acted the same way. Had to move the throttle right next to fast to get it started and then it would die. I did not know if running it at the high speed was a mistake since I had removed the prop and there was no load, am I chasing a fuel problem, or is it possible that something happened with the points that affected the timing from running it at the higher speed without a load?
Thanks
Aficio
 
R

racerone

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Dec 28, 2013
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Look through the inspection hole in flywheel.-----Inspect coils , clean and set breaker point through that hole.-----In my opinion hard starting is usually due to weak spark.-----So does spark jump a gap of 1/4" on a test device.----Do not trust inline testers with a glowing light !
 
C

Crosbyman

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to what extent was the carb cleaned ?? incl the narrow side channel leading to the top drip
chamber

see issues with basic carbs
 

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F

F_R

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Jul 7, 2006
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1. Has the flywheel been removed lately? Was it properly re-installed (dry tapers and nut torqued to 30 foot lbs) ? If not,, it may have sheared the flywheel key.
2. How do those coils look? Your symptoms strongly suggest old, cracked coils.
 
A

Aficio

Cadet
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Jun 10, 2021
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21
When I put the carb kit in, I removed everything and soaked the metal parts in Berrymans chem dip carb cleaner. before reassembly I used air from my 220v air compressor at the same time using a brush kit for small carbs with the wires that you can run down small passages. I did remove the cap to get to the small holes underneath.
after the carb kit I Installed a new set of coils and new wires, as well as new plugs and checked the gap. The points looked okay but did clean them up for continuity and rechecked the gap. I had the head off and cleaned it up before reinstalling. The key was put in properly when reinstalled and all torques were set with a Snap-on dial tourque-o-meter. It was running very well for a few minutes before it died. As I think about having to advance it so much to start it now, and the fact it no longer wants to run very long, or run with any movement of the speed. I think I may look at a new set of points. Since timing is based on the gap and maybe the arms may have bent at the higher speed with no load. Before I tested it I had the throttle set at start and it fired right up and ran for a while as I was adjusting it. I now have the screws a 1 and 1.5 again, and need to have the speed over on the fast side to fire.
Thanks
 
oldboat1

oldboat1

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Messages
9,612
Put the prop back on if you haven't done that already. You need back pressure to tune -- run in a barrel or on the boat. Cooling water needs to be well above the pump (half way up the shaft is good if running in a barrel. Idle mix is 1 to 1 1/2 to begin, h.s about 3/4 to 1 open. Adjust from there -- best success usually adjusting leaner first (clockwise). If it pops or stalls, open about 1/8 turn and try again.
 
A

Aficio

Cadet
Joined
Jun 10, 2021
Messages
21
oldboat1 said:
Put the prop back on if you haven't done that already. You need back pressure to tune -- run in a barrel or on the boat. Cooling water needs to be well above the pump (half way up the shaft is good if running in a barrel. Idle mix is 1 to 1 1/2 to begin, h.s about 3/4 to 1 open. Adjust from there -- best success usually adjusting leaner first (clockwise). If it pops or stalls, open about 1/8 turn and try again.
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I removed the prop since I am using a 35 gallon barrel and last summer when i tried to use it the motor seem to get to hot and shut down quickly. and the tube from the fuel to the carburetor got really hot, i believe because with the small can, it was getting cavitation. It does not help that it is Phx and 113 outside. I can put it back on and try again.
 
A

Aficio

Cadet
Joined
Jun 10, 2021
Messages
21
racerone said:
Fuel filter in tank plugged ?
Click to expand...
It flows very well. I actually removed the tank and let fuel run into a large glass jar, and the fuel ran at a very good constant stream, for three or four minutes, it did not seem to be impeded at all. When I did the other work on it i removed the valve and cleaned the assembly with the filter.
 
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