just rebuilt a 1990 120hp force l drive and now i have problems.

jokey1

Cadet
Joined
Jul 29, 2003
Messages
23
I just want to start from scratch. My buddy bought a 1990 bayliner with a 120 hp force L-drive for 2500 dollars the boat had 298 hours on it and it was is nice shape no fading or dirty spots.<br />We used the boat for about 23 hours and one day my buddy jumped a wake redlined the engine to about 6800 for like 25 seconds and to make a long story short. Every ring was busted on the exhaust side, landings on the piston were broke too. <br />We took it apart got 30 over pistons bored it chamfered the ports, cleaned the carbs got a gasket set. The only problem we had with the gaskets was they did not come with the crank seals. <br />Well we put the engine together and started it up and it ran good. Next we took it on the lake and it stood right up and topped about 50 with 4 guys on it. We ran it like this for about 3 minutes and we pulled back to the dock to pick up our fail safe guy. <br />This is when it went down hill. When we restared it was missing on two holes. I took the plugs out and found that there was some slit from the honeing and I guess from the rings and pistions braking in. So I put new plugs in and we tryed it again this time it ran but is was missing once in awhile. <br />Well we took it out and back home and I figured out that number 1 was not firing all the time. To make a nother long story short one of the trigger wires broke right where the heat shriking tubing is on the termainal and not making a good connection. <br />In the process of figuring out which hole was dead I noticed that 1 and 2 when I grounded them did not make a huge difference in rpm compared to 3 and 4. Is seemed that 1 and 2 where running lean. So took some ether and sprayed it the carb that runs 1 and 2 and there was no stumble or improvement in rpm. When I sprayed it into the carb of 3 and 4 the engine stumbled.<br />So I took the carbs off again cleaned them and checked for any dirt found nothing so then I took the reed valves off and found that they were good too. When I had the reed valves out I looked at the partion seals to see if they wher out of place and they seemed fine. So I put everything together and tried it again and the same thing. If you snap the throttle fast It will stumble and backfire through the carbs a little and then rev up. When you let go of the throttle the engine on the rev down seems to be fighting it self. I was thinking that the engine has a vacume leak and that was the problem so I took carb cleaner and sprayed on the engine case by the port covers and etc. Found nothing the only thing I can think of is the crank seals. I was too scared to spray under the flywheel because of a sprak and the bottom one I did not try is because it is hard to get and the bottom holes seem fine. So now I am at a loss. Compression on all holes is 120 to 130.<br />I tried to get my local merc guys to look at it and they run like hell and the independent guy is a real ******* . Says they are junk and I am a idiot. <br />Do you guys have any idea on how to check if have leak between the clyinders or if the crank seals are bad. I have no idea what eles could be wrong.<br />P.S we changed the sator all ready.<br /><br />Please help me :confused: :(
 

The Marine Doctor

Commander
Joined
Jul 25, 2003
Messages
2,177
Re: just rebuilt a 1990 120hp force l drive and now i have problems.

Spray some 50:1 oil in the carb...if there is a seal problem..the oil will temporarily fill it and the engine should work better.<br /><br />One other thing...had you thought to properly break the engine in after the rebuild..."Well we put the engine together and started it up and it ran good. Next we took it on the lake and it stood right up and topped about 50 with 4 guys on it. We ran it like this for about 3 minutes"... That is not how you break in an engine...its how you destroy one.<br /><br />Its possible that you plugged up the bleed ports on the side of the block...this will make it stumble to accel and flood at idle.<br /><br />TMD
 

jokey1

Cadet
Joined
Jul 29, 2003
Messages
23
Re: just rebuilt a 1990 120hp force l drive and now i have problems.

What I meant was when we put it together and tried it was we had he bunny ears on for about a hour ran it different speeds not just wide open. I did the 25:1 mixture like they say in the book for break in. Then we took it out on the lake. <br />I have not rebuilt may two stroke engines but I have rebuilt a few regular 4 stroke gas and diesel engines. All I ever did to break those engines. Was let them run for about a hour to hour and a half. Get them nice and warm change the oil, check for leaks, check timing etc. Then go for a short ride (about 20miles) listening for any strange noises etc and if every checks out then give it some hell. I was thought that if every thing was put together right there is no need for a break in time. Sure it might not be the best thing for the rings but if something is going to go wrong I want it to happen right away.<br />Do you think when I rebuild a 350 chevy engine for a truck or some kids hot rod do you think they are going to break it in. Hell no the first thing they are going to do is run the hell out of it and make sure it is good. I dont rebuild engines for a living I had a freind that died and he used to build race engines for him self. His wife had a auction and I bought some stuff like the honing tank, boring bar, valve grinder, seat grinder and a mill. None of the stuff is as great as you see in a modern day machine shop but it works. One day I might have a chance to buy a hot tank for a great price and then I can make sure very thing is super clean.<br /> <br />But anyway what do you mean by a 50:1 oil/gas mixture? Put some gas and oil in a pump can and squirt it in the carb? Also which carb the top one or bottom one? About those bleed ports are those the ones on the side of the block with hoses going to little check valves? If that is what you are talking about I checked them and they work as they describe in the book. Do you know how good this will work if I just cap the exhaust port, cooling port, the carbs and just put 10 lbs or air in the crank case? Or will it just give me false readings? <br /><br />I am not trying to be a smart *** I just want to tell you what I know so I can solve this problem.
 

The Marine Doctor

Commander
Joined
Jul 25, 2003
Messages
2,177
Re: just rebuilt a 1990 120hp force l drive and now i have problems.

Yes...get a squirt bottle...while the engine is running..squirt the 50:1 oil into the carbs.<br /><br />Please remeber this...we can only determine causes and effects by the original post. ie breakin was not mentioned in the first post.<br /><br />TMD
 
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