Re: jump start motor
You will want a battery attached. What you will need to do this
safely is:
From battery positive post:
1) Nice fat cable (min 4AWG, or red side of jumper cable would work) to big positive post on the starter solenoid that the red harness cable goes to; this is going to provide your starter power when you activate the solenoid.
2) To the + post on rectifier (min 16AWG, 14AWG better); if you don't do this, you could fry the rectifier.
(Note: if the internal harness is all hooked up, you won't need wire 2) above, because the rectifier will already be tied to the battery through the harness at the positive post of the starter solenoid)
From battery negative post:
3) Nice fat cable (min 4AWG, or black side of jumper cable) grounded off nicely to the powerhead metal.
4) To the black wire (ground) post on starter solenoid (min 16AWG, 14AWG better).
(Note: if the internal harness is all hooked up, you won't need wire 4) above, because the solenoid will already be grounded through that harness)
Now between the positive battery post and the starter solenoid yellow wire (start) post, you want to install:
5) a remote momentary push-button starter switch (maybe auto parts store). Starter solenoid only pulls maybe 5 amps, if you need to spec a switch.
If you want to remotely activate the choke, you'll also need to wire:
6) a momentary switch between the battery positive and the choke solenoid post (grey wire), also should pull no more than 5 amps. But the motor should have a manual choke pull near the solenoid, so this is totally optional.
If you want to be able to kill the motor quickly without simply letting the carbs run out of gas (i.e., you want an emergency stop), then you will need to wire in:
7) a button (either momentary or on-off OK) or better yet a dead-man between one of the orange kill terminals (either at the switchbox or at the top of the mercury switch) and the powerhead (ground). Be very careful, there's not a
lot of amps (maybe 5-10amps) there, but a HELL of a lot of volts (upward of 250-300VDC). Or optionally, just pull the choke and starve it for air (though that could take a few seconds to shut off...depends on your definition of "emergency" timeframe I guess).
Don't worry about the brown wire, you won't need tach for this; although you could easily hook one up if you wanted.
MAKE SURE all your leads and jumper cables are SECURE. If any connections come loose while the motor's running, you can fry ignition parts.
Oh, and MAKE SURE it's in neutral when you start it up; without a control box, the neutral start switch isn't in place. The prop will spin freely by hand in either direction when you are in neutral.
