Issues with my 1981 35HP Johnson Seahorse

Heart

Cadet
Joined
Aug 4, 2011
Messages
7
Recently my 1981 35 HP Johnson Seahorse (#J35ECIG) has been failing to start. I believe the problem stems directly or indirectly with the neutral safety switch. Sometimes when I move the throttle with the key turned on it will finally catch and turn over. Otherwise, nothing. The battery is very strong. When the motor does catch it turns right over, no problems. Today on the water I had to remove the cowling and physically work the plunger on the neutral safety switch for it to start. At the end of the day while inspecting the motor I found a red wire that was burned and broken (see diagram). I removed the screws holding the black terminal bar and found that this red wire attaches to a triangular piece. Does anyone know the name of this piece? There isn't much wire to splice the two ends. In addition the other end of this wire seems to reside in some type of wax, or sealed silicone housing. I figured it may be easier to replace this piece. Secondly, do you think these two issues are related or just coincidental? Thanks for your help
J35ECIG.jpg
 

Heart

Cadet
Joined
Aug 4, 2011
Messages
7
Re: Issues with my 1981 35HP Johnson Seahorse

I have been able to identify the unnamed part. It is the "rectifier". I have ordered a new one. I still wonder, though, if the starting problem is related to this or is the neutral safety switch bad also? Any ideas?
 

jasper60103

Commander
Joined
Sep 18, 2008
Messages
2,055
Re: Issues with my 1981 35HP Johnson Seahorse

I have been able to identify the unnamed part. It is the "rectifier". I have ordered a new one. I still wonder, though, if the starting problem is related to this or is the neutral safety switch bad also? Any ideas?

You could jumper the wire going to the neutral safety switch to ground, then see if it starts.
 

oldslowandugly

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
May 12, 2010
Messages
98
Re: Issues with my 1981 35HP Johnson Seahorse

I have found that the engine mounted neutral switch is problematic, just as you described. It is not actually the switch's fault, but the detent that actuates it is not very precise. I solved it by removing my switch and wiring the starter solenoid to the remote control box with neutral switch and key start. The box has a positive detent that assures the neutral switch works as expected. You then can eliminate the starter solenoid wire that normally went to the engine switch.
 
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