islander transom question

1216bandit

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 18, 2008
Messages
214
The transom on my 19' I/O 1984 islander is soggy from the bottom up about 3". The rest of it is very solid. My question is can just the soggy parts be removed and replaced? I cant post any pictures of the area as the boat is shrink wrapped for the winter. Thanx...Dan
 

Pugetsound

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Apr 5, 2009
Messages
1,824
Re: islander transom question

I trust you leave breathing vents while it is shrink wraped as it will get wetter if you do not.
 

1216bandit

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 18, 2008
Messages
214
Re: islander transom question

Yes, 2 vents and the bottom of the boat is bone dry. I've been doing tons of reading on the various restoration projects so when I get started on my boat in the spring I have a bit of an understanding of what I will be getting into. I am just thinking that if the transom damage is minimal that it wont require a complete replacement.
 

elkhunter338

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 27, 2009
Messages
818
Re: islander transom question

I had similar problems. I tried epoxy injection and did not work. I replaced the whole transom. I would highly recommend painting the alum. behind the transom and painting both sides of the transom.
I used 2 sheets of 3/4 marine plywood glued together. I sealed the top of my transom to prevent water leaking in from the top. mine had some water leaking in the top also.
 

Kainon

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 13, 2009
Messages
608
Re: islander transom question

I suggest you check out my pictures.. http://gallery.kainonmedia.com and my suggestion is to replace it.. I can tell you how (and what NOT to do.. )and tell you mine is more solid than original.
 

1216bandit

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 18, 2008
Messages
214
Re: islander transom question

I suggest you check out my pictures.. http://gallery.kainonmedia.com and my suggestion is to replace it.. I can tell you how (and what NOT to do.. )and tell you mine is more solid than original.

Nice job on your boat...sure looks good! As I mentioned, mine will be a spring project and I will be sure to post up...I will be particularly interested in hearing about the "what not to do"! I kind of have the project laid out in my mind, tear out old foam, new floor in 3 sections so the center section can be removed quickly for fuel tank access (the floor thats in now is 2 pieces with the seam running from side to side), check for loose/leaking rivets, seal with gluvit all seams and fresh paint job.
I have read through the manual about engine/outdrive removal for the transom replacement and it does seem like a bit of a daunting task...that is the one part that makes me a little nervous, hence the reason for asking about just replacing the bad part of the transom.

EDIT: I really have to say I am just blown away by some of the projects I have read about, and especially pictures of the finished results...I raise my glass to ya! I have spent many hours on this site reading and learning..and again must say the amount of knowledge willing to be shared is incredible. Best thing I did was stumble accross this place.
 

Kainon

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 13, 2009
Messages
608
Re: islander transom question

You can also check out my "blog" / "story" for info to.. http://www.kainonmedia.com (scroll to the bottom for latest info)

I was a bit scared to say the least of removing the entire wood, and replacing, I had no knowledge of installing a gimbal housing.

What I did wrong was how I cut the top of the transom off, and ended up cutting a little to much off and some of the aluminum leaving an uneven top.. I used about 2 tubes of 5200, 1 tube of 4200 and 1 high end tube of liquid nails(with a 4200) on the top edge to help seal and prevent any water from getting to it top down.. I also sealed along the seam of the channel and both the inner and outer ends of the bottom channel to help stop any water from sitting or getting in there. I found that where the bottom foot of my transom ladder was, was the cause of some of the rot, and there were a couple other holes in the back, as well water had gotten in around the area between the metal at the gimbal housing and the wood of the transom.. I HIGHLY recommend CPES ( 2qt kit ) mixing and using 1qt per side of a finished transom before install (which I did do) I used a 2 part epoxy to glue the 2 separately cut peices together, layed flat with as much weight as I could find and let cure for 3-4 days before coating with CPES.

1 thing I should've done was trim/sand the bottom and have it a little more fitted, but as I mentioned I used 5200 along the bottom to help seal.

I also should have coated the spacer for transom plate with CPES and maybe 4200'd at least before final. .. also shoulda painted the plate RED.. :)

( all I can think of at the moment )
 

elkhunter338

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 27, 2009
Messages
818
Re: islander transom question

My transmon replacement looked very similar.
Couple of things I did was to seal all the edges of the plywood. I like the epoxy sealing idea. I used vulkum calking. Painted the transmon with primer and paint, both sides, sealed the top of the transom with more calking.
One think I did do was a drilled a few drain holes in the bottom of the alum. bracket where the transom sits in just in case some water gets in that bottom channel it has some where to drain out. I used a 1/8 inch drill bit.
I would recommend painting the inside of the alum before installing the transmon. I also used a jig to drill the holes square when drilling the through holes for the outdrive and other bolts. I drilled all my holes after getting the transmon in the boat.
 

Kainon

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 13, 2009
Messages
608
Re: islander transom question

I sanded down the inside of the transom a bit.. painted it with ZINC Chromate Paint, then covered the bad spots (50-70%) by plastering 3M 5200 on it and speading with a Spatula.
 
Top