Is this fuel filter safe?

RaceCarRich

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It's a 2000, s/n L647524.

What's the hazard is what I'm trying to determine. Perhaps Wix didn't want the cost of submitting for approval or ? I'm more concerned if it's "common-sense" approved.
 

alldodge

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Have not done the research but no plastic is used in the fuel system. The filter in the link could melt if there was a overheat issue. It also does not use barbed fitting. The Merc booster pump was installed on many EFI motors for the vapor lock problems and it uses an inline filter in conjunction with the canister. See item 27 in link below

http://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/subassembly/31848/7585/70

Your motor has a built in filter

http://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/subassembly/30920/2330/60
 

GA_Boater

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It's a 2000, s/n L647524.

What's the hazard is what I'm trying to determine. Perhaps Wix didn't want the cost of submitting for approval or ? I'm more concerned if it's "common-sense" approved.

If a fire breaks out, the heat can melt the plastic filter housing. Then you have fuel feeding the flames making it worse.

Common sense says to use a metal cased filter which is USCG approved filter for the safety of you, your passengers and fellow boaters.
 

spoilsofwar

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It's a 2000, s/n L647524.

What's the hazard is what I'm trying to determine. Perhaps Wix didn't want the cost of submitting for approval or ? I'm more concerned if it's "common-sense" approved.

IIRC to be approved for use in an I/O or inboard engine room the filter must be of all metal construction. The models with plastic components or glass sight bowls are for outboard applications only. As GA mentions they can be broken or melt and start or worsen a fire.
 

RaceCarRich

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I would never consider a glass filter for breakage reasons. I think if the plastic filter on the side opposite side of the engine from the exhaust melted, the rubber line it attaches to would be in trouble but point taken. What do you think of this all-metal unit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000...p_1_1?colid=RM1MPDBRHZU7&coliid=IEURMJ59UWPQ2

The filter #27 in AllDodges's link looks just like the one in my GMC - except it ain't $49 for a throwaway fuel filter.

I'd love to learn more about any built in filter that I may have. The only one I'm aware of is the little one at the carb inlet. The schematic just had #2 (filter) floating in space.
 

alldodge

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Why are you wanting to put an in line filter on with the one in your fuel pump?

Many have had issues running two filters because the pump having issue pulling thru to pumps and the anti-siphon valve.

I like your next one listed better but still don't like the type of hose fitting. The barb fittings are used to increase the sealing.
 

RaceCarRich

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I guess because I didn't know I had one in my fuel pump. Where in the pump is it? The schematic didn't really show where it was.
 

alldodge

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Last edited:

stonyloam

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You loosen the screw on the bottom, and slide the wire retainer over and the housing should drop off. Now if you have trouble getting to it, it could be easier to just pull the pump off and service it on the bench (That is probably what I would do) just need a new fuel pump gasket.
 
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RaceCarRich

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I just went out in the rain to look at my fuel pump. Looks just like the schematic. Looks like I learned something- thanks to you guys. I'll be ordering one of the pump filters since who knows when it's been changed since I got the boat at start of last season from the original owner who did zero maintenance other than annual oil changes. I changed the one in the carb at the start of each season but never knew about the pump filter. Thanks!!
 

fishrdan

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I got the boat at start of last season from the original owner who did zero maintenance other than annual oil changes. I changed the one in the carb at the start of each season but never knew about the pump filter. Thanks!!

I/O boats are maintenance intensive, if all that was gone is oil changes, I bet there is a laundry list of things needing attention.
 

achris

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I/O boats are maintenance intensive, if all that was gone is oil changes, I bet there is a laundry list of things needing attention.

Raw water pump impeller
Drive oil change
Pull propeller and grease shaft.
Grease unis
Grease gimbal bearing
Check all bellows
Grease hinge pins and swivel joints
Check/replace anodes.
If not Gen II, check water pocket cover and upper shift shaft seals.
Check engine alignment
Grease engine coupler.
Grease throttle and shift cable attachment points
Check shift cable adjustment
Engine tune, including replace plugs, dissy cap and rotor. (if point, those too)
Check trim hydraulic oil level
Check rear mounting screw tensions.

That's the list that falls off the top of my head. I'm sure a few dozen more will occur to me during the day. :D

Chris......
 
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RaceCarRich

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Just because I got the boat with no maintenance doesn't mean I haven't done any since I got it. I've learned a lot from this site. Looking at aChris's list:

Raw water pump impeller. DONE
Drive oil change DONE
Pull propeller and grease shaft. DONE (thank some rocks)
Grease unis. DONE? (Greased the one visible behind the motor. The two on the shaft connected to the drive were solid/non-greasable and felt good)
Grease gimbal bearing. DONE?? I grease-gunned all the zerks on the drive. Is there more to it?
Check all bellows. DONE. Feel and look solid although the age probably indicate they are due.
Grease hinge pins and swivel joints. DONE?? Are these zerks?
Check/replace anodes. DONE. All have at least 50% remaining.
If not Gen II, check water pocket cover and upper shift shaft seals. ITS GEN II.
Check engine alignment. HUH? Why would it change and how to check? Why was this in bold?
Grease engine coupler. ?? Is this a zerks? I greased the splines on the drive's shaft when it was off.
Grease throttle and shift cable attachment points DONE
Check shift cable adjustment. DONE (cable replaced)
Engine tune, including replace plugs, dissy cap and rotor. (if point, those too). DONE- first thing I did.
Check trim hydraulic oil level. DONE / FULL
Check rear mounting screw tensions. Huh??

Also changed belt, carb filter, ignition wires, exhaust shutters, cleaned arrestor, and a few other tasks. Ordered fuel pump filter last night.

Let me know if I'm misunderstanding anything or missing anything critical. Thanks
 
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bruceb58

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You check alignment every time you pull the drive. Buy an alignment tool on ebay.
 

alldodge

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Howdy RRRich

The folks hear a lot about folks having troubles and most are always do to lack of maintenance. The fresh water boats have much less maintenance needs then the salt water folks. In most cases just take it as they really want to do you right by those asking questions. Even though it may come out a little slanted at times. I'm no exception, I do it also, sometimes just doesn't come out the way it was meant. Just know we want to do you right

Pull propeller and grease shaft. DONE (thank some rocks)
This is a good thing to do ever year with salt and every other for fresh. Reason being, need to change lube anyway, and also the prop can seize to the shaft and will be a real bear to get it off. One guy on hear had to cut it off, was a real mess.

Grease hinge pins and swivel joints. DONE?? Are these zerks?
In most newer cases there are no zerks

Check engine alignment. HUH? Why would it change and how to check? Why was this in bold?
With age the boat hull can move a bit and this slight change can and does change the alignment. Most folks don't pull the drive very often, and in my opinion if the drive slides on/off without much pressure your good. I still check the alignment because it takes 20 seconds and I have the tool. As before if it slides on/off without have to kick or pry your probably good. Keep in ind these folks and my self hear of folks burning their engine couplers out.

Grease engine coupler. ?? Is this a zerks? I greased the splines on the drive's shaft when it was off.
Doing it that way works, and I also do it that way. Even use a long flat screw driver to put a tad of grease in it. The zerks are there to grease, but getting the motor to the right spot to grease can be a pain.

Check rear mounting screw tensions. Huh??
These are the rear motor mounts, which I have never done but my guess its a good thing to do. Could also be the upper pivot pin nuts which should be checked, and I do this.

All the best
 

RaceCarRich

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Hi, nothing sounded slanted to me. I know everybody's trying to help out.

I greased the hinge pins with the zerks near the limit switch & sender but how goes one grease the swivel pin?

Drive did not require the "Merc-kick" to get it back in and has been running smooth.

The engine coupler... Are we talking about the u-joint that's inside the boat behind the motor? I greased that plus grease on drive splines.

I can check motor mount bolts for tightness.

Boat sees fresh, salt, & brackish from time to time. Always trailered except for 1 season original owner had slipped in brackish and 1 week each of last 2 seasons that I rented a salty slip on vacation. I can see the effect of salt water and air on the boat and trailer in just a week.

Thanks for teaching a newbie.
 
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