Is My New Switch Panel up to the Task?

Skook

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Apr 8, 2009
Messages
47
I just bougth a BEP Marine CMP-5WPS switch panel and buss bar from iboats. The switch panel has five switches plus a built-in 12-volt accessory socket. It has 4 ATM fuses.

The pre-wired positive leads coming from the panel are 18 AWG wire. According to the instructions, it appears that I am supposed to run a heavier wire from the battery to a wire nut-type device that was included with the switch, and then run two 18 AWG wires from the wire nut to power the switch panel.

My plan is to run 10 AWG from the battery to the wire nut, and then run two 18 AWG wires from the wire nut and butt splice them to the pre-wired switch panel leads. Also, I bought a buss bar from which I will be using 10 AWG as a ground wire back to the battery. I will be powering normal small boat-type stuff (e.g. nav lights, fish finder, courtsey light, etc.)

My concern is that the switch panel, including the power socket, will be wired using "only" two 18 AWG wires. Does anyone see any problem with this?

Thanks.
 

Skook

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Apr 8, 2009
Messages
47
Re: Is My New Switch Panel up to the Task?

Thanks. Good advice, but I'm a little reluctant. The pig tails are pre-wired in through the back of the panel. The panel is like a one-piece molded plastic that has raised sections which house the fuses where the wires feed into. I can't tell exactly how they are connected in there because there isn't enough space to get a look at the terminal connection.

These small molded-in areas are too small to get my fingers into. It looks the pig tails may be connected with quick connects, but I'm afraid to pull on them without knowing. If they are not and I yank them out, it looks like it would be nearly impossible for me to re-attach them in such a small space without boogering up the panel.

I have little experience, and so I don't want to create problems that I'm not equipped to deal with. The solder suggestion is worthwhile and something I am capable of doing.

I purchased a weatherproof electronic project enclosure to house the switch panel from a company called Polycase (my boat has no console or instrument panel). It was a little more than I wanted to spend on an empty box, but it should work ok and serve to keep the wiring on the panel safely enclosed. I just need to cut out a hole in the lid of the box, wire up the panel and plop it into the top of the enclosure, which has a flange kit that I will use to secure it to my tank-style seat.
 

Skook

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Apr 8, 2009
Messages
47
Re: Is My New Switch Panel up to the Task?

Now there's an idea! The pigtails are probably four to six inches long (I don't have the panel here in front of me). So you are saying just run the positive 10 AWG directly to the panel and solder the two 18 AWG wires to the battery wire?

Why didn't I think of that? In fact, why didn't BEP Marine think of that and save the expense of including that weird wire nut? Is there any downside to this idea?
 

Skook

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Apr 8, 2009
Messages
47
Re: Is My New Switch Panel up to the Task?

Would you recommend a fuse or circuit breaker at the battery? Also, how many amps?

I appreciate all of the help.
 
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