Installing folding tongue hinge behind winch post

JeffatLSU

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Jul 17, 2014
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Much to my dad's chagrin (He's a very casual fisherman) I recently helped my mom buy a 2005 Sea Doo Sportster 150 (15.5' 215 HP Jet Boat) because she just thought they were cool and she just likes cruising the river in something easy to handle.

Anyway, they have a 1.5 car garage that's 18' 2" deep with a utility sink at the back and a door that swings in. I really need to get this thing below 16 ft from tongue to stern so they can keep it in the garage so it stays clean and ready to use at all times (My mom's requirement). This is a very light boat + trailer combo. The boat is about 1,450 dry and there's not much to add to that besides 21 gal of fuel and a battery. I need to weigh it but the trailer can't weigh more than 1,200 lbs for a total wet weight around 3,000. This trailer happens to be a Karavan brand trailer (SeaDoo doesn't make their own OEM trailers, at least not for this boat).

I bought the Fulton 3x3", 5,000 lb fold away hinge kit. If I install it in front of the existing winch post and relocate the jack it would only net us a 1 ft, 7 5/8" reduction in length putting us at a total length of 16' 6-3/8" from the tip of the folding tongue hinge to the slightly protruding step ladder at the rear of the transom.

I've seen pictures of where others have put the hinge behind the winch post and it seems to work fine. I'm having trouble precisely visualizing the arc that the bow roller will take when the tongue is folded but it seems that since the pivot point is offset to one side that the roller will pull away from the bow as the tongue swings. I assume that if the pivot point was too far towards the tongue relative to the roller that the roller would have to first move laterally across the bow which probably wouldn't work. The pivot point needs to be as close as possible to the center line of the roller or aft of it. Just unhook the chain and the strap and swing the whole rig over as shown in the pics below.






Logically that all sounds fine and I can make the cut and place the hinge where I have it resting in the picture below but I have 2 main concerns:

1) What if the boat is pinned hard against the roller when retrieved from the water and makes it difficult/impossible to remove the pin to release the hinge? I see it potentially putting downward pressure on the bow roller which puts the hinge in a bind and prevents the removal of the pin (At least not without tools and/or a jack on the tongue to take the load off). Has anyone lived with a setup like this? Has that ever been a problem?

2) To a lesser extent I'm concerned about the boat settling in the bunks while stored with the bow roller folded away. I've read one anecdotal report of this on another forum but with a much heavier boat. He left it for a few months and then couldn't swing the tongue back into position because the boat was a couple of inches lower than it was when it had originally been stored. The trailer seems rather beefy for the size/weight of this boat so it may not be a concern.

The other solution is to re-work the winch post to make it more vertical and allow the install of the hinge further back. That would require finding a welder I trust and paying him to do the job though and would reduce the strength of the winch post to some extent due to simple geometry/physics. Of course I'd have to paint too at that point. I'd prefer to just install it behind the post if I could be more confident that it would just work without issue. I'd really rather not cut the tongue off and have it not work right.

Does anyone have experience with this setup? I know Ram-Lin puts the folding hinge behind the winch post and bow stop for the OE Nautique trailers because that's how my neighbor's SAN was from the factory. You had to remove the bulky bow stop to fold the hinge on his though.

Here's the tongue in question:
 
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Joined
Feb 17, 2012
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interesting idea. If you notice the roller has 2 pins or bolts on the bracket that holds the roller. Pins cost money where welding is cheap so they are there for a reason. I would guess that the first one is a bolt and the second one is a pin. When the pin is removed you can tilt the roller up or down allowing it to clear the front of the boat then swing the tongue out of the way. I would suggest using a jack stand under the front of the trailer then winding the wheel up until the boat is on the stand before swinging the tongue to the side unless its a twin axle trailer.
 

JeffatLSU

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Jul 17, 2014
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There was no mention of the roller having any independent release where those pictures were posted by the owner. I don't think the roller can move other than the hinge on the tongue itself. I've found 3 or so instances of people doing this in the aftermarket without a whole lot of explanation but none of them mentioned any need to have any sort of slip joint for the roller. With the potential exception of binding of the pivot point, the hinge pin being offset to one side should cause the bow roller to pull away from the boat when the tongue is pivoted.

Also, regardless of where I put the hinge I'll be relocating the jack aft of it so that when the trailer is on the jack the folding tongue will move freely.
 
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UncleWillie

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Oct 18, 2011
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I would be concerned about the forces applied to the folding joint when you are winching the boat back on the trailer.
The folding tongue assumes that your load is going to be the tongue weight. 10% of 5000# would be a typical 500# tongue weight max.
With the Winch post on the folding part, all the winch loads ar now on the folding joint.
Acceleration and braking forces applied to the winch post to keep the boat on the trailer will also be transfered to the folding joint.

The plan makes me nervous. See what Fulton has to say about your idea before you start cutting.
 

90stingray

Lieutenant Junior Grade
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Oct 26, 2010
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1,162
I think what i would do if it was mine... I would move the winch post to the diamond plate pad and reinforce accordingly. It will take some cutting and welding and fabrication. Then move the jack back to one of the trailer side rails. Then feel free to cut and install your folding joint on the tongue.
 

roscoe

Supreme Mariner
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Oct 30, 2002
Messages
21,853
How about buying a new winch post, configured like the one in this link, the post is mounted almost directly under the bow roller. Then you should be able to put the swing away hinge in front of the winch post.
I think this will save you some major headaches.

PO2151-2159-KEN-STYE.jpg
boattrailerpartsplace. com/winch-post-assemblies/?s_p_c_t=1342&ident=1&product_id=422&cat_id_1_1=68 &page_num_1_1=1&back=1

I would also call Karavan, as they likely have a post that will work for you. Their customer service department is great.
Please contact our customer service dept if you need further assistance!​
920-928-6200 Option 3


Your trailer likely weighs under 700#. Karavan's 2400# capacity trailers are under 600#.
 
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JeffatLSU

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Jul 17, 2014
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I've had an email in to Karavan for a few days. I sent the model number of the trailer and the part number of the current winch post along with my question about a suitable replacement. The lady replied and said she needed the VIN. I sent that along with a picture of the tongue/winch post configuration. I'll see what they say.

I've found numerous aftermarket winch posts, including the one Roscoe mentioned, but none of them are quite right and would still give up some length when the tongue is folded. If I'm going to spend another $150 or so I'd really like it to net me the maximum length reduction possible. Ultimately the center of the bow roller needs to be at 14.5" which is fairly low relative to the adjustable aftermarket ones I've found. They either don't go that low or they're the typical Y shaped arrangement that would end up sticking out towards the tongue as far or farther than the current arrangement does.

Something like these from GreatLakesSkipper would be great but neither is adjustable and they're both off on the roller height by several inches:
16486-1-lg_1.jpg
28036-1-lg_1.jpg
 

oldjeep

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May 17, 2010
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6,455
Have a friend with a welder? Those could be modified very quickly by someone with a cutoff wheel and a decent welder.
 

UncleWillie

Captain
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Oct 18, 2011
Messages
3,995
... Ultimately the center of the bow roller needs to be at 14.5" which is fairly low relative to the adjustable aftermarket ones I've found. They either don't go that low or they're the typical Y shaped arrangement that would end up sticking out towards the tongue as far or farther than the current arrangement does...

Keep in mind that the Bow Roller on the Trailer needs to be ABOVE the Bow Eye of the boat.
If it is Below the Eye; You risk having the boat launch itself over the winch post in an emergency stop.
The winch post is not just for recovering the boat. It is what keeps the boat on the trailer while on the road also.
 
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