Re: info on 165 hp mercruiser engine and leg
Having recently survived the pros and cons of an inline 6 cyl, 165 mercruiser of early 70's version, I have just a few recommendations:<br />1. Make sure there is no flex in the transom; you can test this buy grasping the outdrive and trying to move it. If the transom flexes at all, you will probably spin your drive coupling. I did this twice before finally figuring out that the transom was flexing. Replaced 2 drive couplings and totally rebuilt the transom. Very expensive lesson.<br />2. Change the water pump in the outdrive. It is do-able on your own, but the manual is really important to doing it right. Also, YOU MUST MAKE SURE THAT THE DRIVE IS IN FORWARD BEFORE STARTING REMOVAL AND THAT THE DRIVE STAYS IN FORWARD FOR REINSTALL. My manual did not tell me that, I had to learn it the hard way. This is not a difficult job but is a two-person job. Follow the torq specs closely. Poor torq will result in the new water pump coming apart.<br />3. If the motor has been ran in saltwater, or even just sitting for several years, I would replace the manifold and riser. Luckily the exhaust manifold and riser are easy to get to, at least they were on mine, and except for being heavy are easy to replace. Use some liquid soap to lossen the exahust belows. My manifold system was easy to remove even after years of saltwater exposure.<br /><br />Personally, I found the 165 with inline 250 a good set up and it pushed my 20' Wellcraft along pretty good. The engine was strong and durabl, and was easy to work on. Good luck.