Re: Inboard thin oil.....and smells like gas ???
fuel dilution is fuel dilution, a synthetic oil will thin out just the same and offer no better protection. So in this case it would be more economical to run a good "non-synthetic" oil and change it more often, the idea is keeping the dilution to a minimum.<br /><br />with the choke, as soon as the engine is running you can almost always manually open the choke by hand. The motor won't need any choke (a richer mixture) once it's running, the electric choke usually takes a minute for it to open the choke flap fully but if you help it and get it open as soon as possible, all the better because the mixture will be better (leaner) and the engine will run smoother and be less chance of getting fuel in the oil. And with cold idle speed once it's started, a faster idle is better. not only will you get better oil flow and lubrication, but the rings will heat up and seal faster. so don't start your motor and idle it at 600-800 rpm to warm up, get it up around 1500 rpm right away.<br /><br />what syn is 15w-40? most syns are 5w-40. I've been running mobil 5w-40 in my 3.0L and have been real happy with it but it's no longer sold so I'll probably go with one of the 15w-40's if the rotella 5w40 doesn't stay available. If you can find delvac 5w40 that would be a very good oil to use.<br /><br /> be careful running a 20w-50. temps around 60F and lower can result in less than ideal oil flow on startup because of the oil being too thick, and can be damaging. 50 weights arent really necessary unless you plan on running really high oil temps, or see lots of fuel dilution, so unless you know what oil temps you are running the 40 weights will protect just as well especially if you have an oil cooler and provide the startup lubrication you want.