Impeller replacement

wjclay

Cadet
Joined
Oct 16, 2023
Messages
8
After many searches and videos watched, I still don't have definitive answers to some questions regarding impeller replacement on a '93 135 Black Max. I don't have a printer, so that's out. The following information would be appreciated; torque specs on impeller housing bolts and lower unit retaining hardware; sealant/lube required on mating surfaces/threads and splines. Several of the Q&A posts I've read concern problems with shifting gears, once lower unit is replaced. What was done that I need to avoid? Thanks for any information.
Bill Clay
 

Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 25, 2004
Messages
27,922
I have that motor and have done many impeller changes. First off, replace the impeller, wearplate and the 2 gaskets that sandwich it, as a minimum. Check the upper pump SS cup for scratches. Replace if you find them. Check the pump base for melting, if so, replace it. If you are getting water into gearcase, shift seal is prime suspect, followed by pump base seals.

Clean driveshaft if corroded so impeller comes off easily. Use some soap on new impeller when seating it in pump cover. Don't forget to install drive key. Make sure base and cover are fully down. Cover is plastic, so snug nuts down, but not tight enough to crack cover. No more than one hand on middle of socket wrench, so you don't break pump. Install heavy rubber slinger on driveshaft and push down to contact water pump cover. Check for rubber gasket inside pump outlet. Put water tube guide tube into water pump outlet.

Marine grease on driveshaft and shiftshaft splines.

Make sure control and gearcase are in neutral. With motor tilted up, shove driveshaft into midsection. Insert water tube into plastic guide tube. Push gearcase up tight. Turn flywheel until driveshaft splines mate with crankshaft. Observe shift shaft thru front of midsection. Needle nose plier can align upper and lower shift shafts. Wiggle gearcase in place. As you do that don't forget front upper nuts, which need to go on pretty early. Use finger pressure to keep them snug. Do not tighten nuts with wrench to pull gearcase into position. So, wiggle gearcase, tighten nuts with fingers, wiggle, tighten...

You know about the bolt hidden under the zinc anode?
 

wjclay

Cadet
Joined
Oct 16, 2023
Messages
8
I have that motor and have done many impeller changes. First off, replace the impeller, wearplate and the 2 gaskets that sandwich it, as a minimum. Check the upper pump SS cup for scratches. Replace if you find them. Check the pump base for melting, if so, replace it. If you are getting water into gearcase, shift seal is prime suspect, followed by pump base seals.

Clean driveshaft if corroded so impeller comes off easily. Use some soap on new impeller when seating it in pump cover. Don't forget to install drive key. Make sure base and cover are fully down. Cover is plastic, so snug nuts down, but not tight enough to crack cover. No more than one hand on middle of socket wrench, so you don't break pump. Install heavy rubber slinger on driveshaft and push down to contact water pump cover. Check for rubber gasket inside pump outlet. Put water tube guide tube into water pump outlet.

Marine grease on driveshaft and shiftshaft splines.

Make sure control and gearcase are in neutral. With motor tilted up, shove driveshaft into midsection. Insert water tube into plastic guide tube. Push gearcase up tight. Turn flywheel until driveshaft splines mate with crankshaft. Observe shift shaft thru front of midsection. Needle nose plier can align upper and lower shift shafts. Wiggle gearcase in place. As you do that don't forget front upper nuts, which need to go on pretty early. Use finger pressure to keep them snug. Do not tighten nuts with wrench to pull gearcase into position. So, wiggle gearcase, tighten nuts with fingers, wiggle, tighten...

You know about the bolt hidden under the zinc anode?
Thanks for the advice! My buddy and I know our way around hand tools, but we're not marine mechanics. I do have the complete OEM impeller kit; gaskets, housing, etc. What I still would like to know are the torque specs for the two side nuts under the fin, one nut in front on top, and the bolt under the tab. I've heard 'just get 'em tight', but doing this the first time, I'd sure like to go with factory specs. I'll keep searching. Thanks again.
Bill Clay
 
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