Ignition problem

[Moneypitboating]

Hello new to The Forum or any forum for that matter I have an 84 Evinrude 150 V6 getting .53 volts to yellow and black ignition wire unplugged from wiring harness at motor still have voltage from the motor wiring harness .disconnected both power packs, timer, stator all the coil packs still have voltage is .53 enough to burn power pack because it went out after only 2 times on water I would appreciate any help on this subject

 

[Moneypitboating]

I meant to say is .53 volts enough to burn a power pack as long as battery is hooked up I have the voltage

 

[boobie]

Any voltage on the black/yellow wires will burn the power pack,

 

[F_R]

Interesting question. Are you saying you have an external voltage being fed To the motor, or are you saying you are having a voltage on the wire coming From the motor? There is a world of difference. An external voltage being fed to the motor is not good. But just plain common sense says there will be a voltage on the wire coming from the motor. The ignition switch grounds out that voltage to kill the ignition and stop the motor. If there were no voltage what would the switch ground out?

How much voltage to expect? On older motors, it would be the capacitor voltage, a few hundred pulsating DC volts when running. I have no clue what to expect on newer motors. I'd guess the gate voltage across a transistor or something. But as I admit, no clue

 

[Joe Reeves]

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Voltage To Powerpack Failures
(Magneto Capacitance Discharge Systems)
(J. Reeves)

The usual cause of having those type powerpacks fail repeatedly is having a very small of voltage applied to the Black/Yellow wire (Kill Circuit) at the pack. Test as follows.
Disconnect the Black/Yellow wire at the powerpack.

Insert either a ampere meter or a volt meter set to its lowest DC voltage reading between that Black Yellow wire and ground.

With the ignition key in the OFF position, observe the meter reading. Now turn the ignition key to the ON position and again observe the meter reading.

Any reading, movement of the meter needle, even a microvolt, would indicate that battery voltage is being applied to that Black/Yellow wire. If a reading is present, remove the other end of that Black/Yellow from the raised terminal of the ignition switch.

If the reading ceases to exist when the Black/Yellow wire is removed from the ignition switch, replace the switch. If the reading continues to exist, there would be a short of some kind in either the engine or instrument wiring harness.... to determine which, simply unplug the large RED electrical plug at the engine which would eliminate the instrument cable.

Note that the black/yellow wire must not have any other wire attached to it for the following reason!

Keep in mind that any accessory that has 12 volts running to it, especially when turned on, will have voltage flowing thru it and trailering out thru its black ground wire to complete the circuit. If that accessory has it's black ground wire attached to the "M" terminal that the black/yellow wire is attached to.... you will have voltage flowing directly to the powerpack.
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