Identifying Nissan Outboard

5Feezy

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I just bought a used 2003 Nissan outboard 18 HP. Is there any way of ensuring that I didn't get duped into buying a lower powered motor with 18 horsepower stickers on it? I'm probably just paranoid, but I've been duped before. Thanks.
 

5Feezy

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Re: Identifying Nissan Outboard

If its the # stamped on the silver disk above the dip stick, it reads 01689.
 

pvanv

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Re: Identifying Nissan Outboard

There should be a silver lable on the lower cowling that has the complete model number and serial number. The model number should follow the format NSF18B2 or similar. (Nissan Four-Stroke 18, series B2) You can also call Nissan Marine, or send an email via their website to get the model year.
 

5Feezy

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Re: Identifying Nissan Outboard

Yes, it has that sticker, and that it does read NSF18B2. My concern is that sticker could be changed and if there is a more concrete way of identifying this motor.
 

pvanv

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Re: Identifying Nissan Outboard

Are you suggesting that someone owned both a 9.9 and an 18, and blew up the 18, then transferred the labels to make the 9.9 appear to be an 18, making it more valuable?

Does it seem to be underperforming, delivering less power than you expected? Do you have reason to suspect that someone conterfeited and misrepresented the motor?

Considering that the same block, cowling, leg housing, driveshaft, LU and such was used for the 9.9, 15 and 18, they will all look alike. They are all the same basic motor, with aspiration differences. I suppose you could get the numbers from the carburetor and compare them with the parts catalogs to see which carb is installed...
 

5Feezy

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Re: Identifying Nissan Outboard

The guy has already lied about the shifter, saying that it is not supposed to lock into the reverse position as a safety feature.

Also you wouldn't have to blow up a motor to pull this off. You would just have to own both motors and not mind riding your 18 with 9.9 decals on it.
 

TOHATSU GURU

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Re: Identifying Nissan Outboard

There should be a sticker or embossing on the block with the same serial number as the plate.
 

5Feezy

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Re: Identifying Nissan Outboard

Hey Guru, the #'s do match. Thanks.

Pvanv, I just don't have my boat quite ready for the water yet so I haven't been able to try the motor on the water. Thanks.
 

pvanv

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Re: Identifying Nissan Outboard

Good that you have what was represented. The previous owner likely did not understand the shifter issue, so either he "told himself" that it was normal, or just said what he needed to in order to complete the sale.

Now, the next thing will be to address that shifter issue. If the shifter wedge (inside the LU) is not being moved all the way into reverse, the LU might jump back to neutral, especially under significant load. I have seen that issue a lot more in forward, but I suppose it could happen in reverse.

Did you test the motor by running it with muffs on? Keep in mind that the LU will not go into gear properly if the shaft is not turning, so there may be nothing wrong at all. A tank test, or better yet, an on-the-water test will tell you a lot.

Given the age of your motor, it's likely time to go through the water pump, so that would be a good time to check the indexing and adjustment of the shift rod. I have seen the rod bent (up near the shift handle), throwing the whole indexing off. Was done by an overly-enthusiastic teenager. If that's the case, it can sometimes be straightened, or you can get a new rod from any Tohatsu/Nissan dealer.

If you're going to do the service yourself, I would recommend getting a Factory service manual from any Tohatsu/Nissan dealer. The water pump's not a difficult job, but is made easier with the Factory manual. Also get the parts catalog -- either a free download from TG's website at
http://www.internetoutboards.com/PartsCatalogMenu.htm
or you can buy one from a dealer. The reason I suggest having both books is that once you have the LU down, you can pull out the prop housing and verify that everything is assembled correctly, with no missing parts, etc. It's possible that a previous mechanic botched something, causing your reverse issue.

On your model, you will need a punch to drive out the roll pin from the brass shift rod coupler in order to drop the LU. Do that carefully, so you don't mangle the coupler. The factory sells a very nice set of tools for installing and removing the pin, but it's rather pricey for the set, say $50 or so. Many mechanics use a good drift punch successfully, rather than shell out for the factory tools. If in doubt, get it to a dealer for the job.
 
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