identifying M50D part

[ba_50]

This part is mounted on the right side of the motor over a bushing. A link goes from it to the lower shift or throttle cable. The parts list is difficult to figure out. Thanks.

 

[pvanv]

What is the question?

 

[ba_50]

I need to know what the part name or names are because some are apparently missing.

Is it a Advancer lever?
Are there 4 parts?
The A lever
Throttle cam
Throttle cam spring
​​​​​​​Collar?

 

[pvanv]

The throttle cable terminates at the advancer arm, (1) in the diagram.. At the top of the advancer arm is a link rod (15) that connects to the throttle cam (7). That is on the same sleeve (collar) with the advancer lever (8). The advancer lever operates a link (16) to the magneto.

 

[ba_50]

#24 is the broken piece. 28 must go to the oil pump which a mechanic took out of the system years back so the gas could be mixed. He left oil in a tube so it wouldn't damage the pump.

This motor is on a 1980 glastron cvx 16 deluxe that I started using last year. It didn't seem to be running as fast as it should so that is when The
broken piece was found hiding in the bottom.
I cleaned the carbs and the fuel pump diaphrapm looks good.
The mechanic adjusted the carbs and I haven't ever tried to do a 3 cyl before. Aren't they for idle anyhow?
Maybe a 50 is too light but it used about 5 gallons in 1 1/2 hours with some seafoam mixed in.

What do you think?

 

[pvanv]

If you have a tiller motor, item 24 is the throttle stop arm. It has a link rod (28) to the starter lock arm.

3C8-05213-0

ARM, THROTTLE STOP

1

FOR "F" TYPE

3C8052130M

THROTTLE SET

$4.03

What method did you use to clean the carbs? If you did not completely remove all bits, including jets and emulsion tube nozzle, do an overnight soak in carb dip, followed by a thorough blast out with generic carb spray (of every passage), you didn't do them well enough.

Put a tachometer on it and see what the WOT RPM comes up to. You want 5000 to 5700 RPM. 5500 is very good. If too low, you need a lower pitch prop.

Make sure that the antiventilation plate is even with the bottom of the boat (jack height), and make sure the motor is vertical when at speed (trim). You can d/l your owners manual from http://tohatsu.com/tech_info/manuals.html

I think it's ridiculous to eliminate the oil mixing pump. They pretty much never fail.

Synchronizing the carbs has the greatest effect at idle, but is important for evenly balanced power through the whole RPM range.

I think seafoam is OK, but pretty much useless, probably won't hurt. If you are running E10 fuel, I would suggest adding a stabilizer, and never run fuel more than 30 days old.

 

[ba_50]

Paul

This one has remote controls.

I had a Honda scooter with oil injection that wasn"t pumping enough oil and wrecked the motor.

Took everything apart except adjustment needles.
I made sure carb spray came out the holes.
It was going faster last summer.

A tach test would have to be done by a mechanic if cleaning doesn't work.

My experience with sea foam on rough running motors has helped or it looked that way.

87 octane is what I use.

 

[pvanv]

If remote, then odds are you have either item 7 throttle cam), (probably what you have, since it has a link wire to the throttle cable advancer arm) or 8 (advancer lever) in hand.

The oil pump on these seldom if ever fails, and provides a variable oil ratio depending on engine speed, which reduces oil consumption and makes the plugs last longer. However, pre-mix will work fine.

All bits, including the adjustment screws, jets, emulsion tube nozzle, etc, must come out before an overnight soak in carb dip.

You can get a cheap inductive tachometer such as tiny tach for under $50. You will need a mechanic to sync the carbs anyway.

As I said, seafoam probably won't hurt.

IIRC, all 87 octane fuels have 10% or more ethanol, so make sure you empty the carbs by running them out or draining, unless you know you will be running the motor in a day or two... otherwise, you will be cleaning carbs a lot. Try to get E0 (non ethanol) fuel if possible.