I had to replace two of my pedestal bases . . .

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Expidia

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Couldn't locate the exact matches as I wanted the brushed stainless look to match the 3 other ones mounted on the boat already. So I went with Springfield bases and sprung for two new seat posts which fit these Springfield's where my old ones did not.

These two new Springfield seat posts were advertised as 15 inches (which is what my old ones are). But some of Springfield's spec say 16.5 inches (which they are). I have not fitted to my boat yet as its been raining around here.

So my question is this: What is the best way to trim these aluminum posts 1.5 inches if I have to if I see my two aft seats are riding to high?

I have a hacksaw and also a powered Sawsall with a hacksaw blade. But the post won't fit in the miter box and I know its going to turn out as a sloppy cut (I'm somewhat of a perfectionist when it comes to my boat).

What device would make a clean cut? I'm sure I know of someone who would own what ever it is I need to make a perfect cut.
 

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ahicks

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I would use an angle grinder. They work great on alum. Fasten post in a vice, mark your cut all the way around, and go for it. Don't try to slice it off like a butcher's meat cutter. Attacking an inch or 2 of your mark at a time gives much better control. Then clean up the results with a file.
 

beerman2

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I you do not have a cut off saw, and your a perfectionist, the best thing to do is take it to a machine shop. Most shops at least around where I live wouldn't charge anything to chop it off for you. Some auto parts stores have a cut off saw for cutting exhaust pipe, would work great for cutting you seat post. Just a couple of thoughts for you ponder.
 

harringtondav

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Assuming you've got access to a radial arm saw:
I've cut a lot of structural aluminum on my radial arm saw. 60 tooth minimum carbide blade. Available at Harbor Freight for a reasonable price. A challenge is leveling your seat tubes with their normal 9" diameter base, and backing and securing the tube to the saw fence. Don't 'climb' feed the saw by pulling it forward as normal. Pull the saw motor forward, secure the pedestal. Rigid hold down is critical. Slow feed the saw rearward to the fence into the cut. Use WD-40 or any spray lube. Slow feed. If the saw has enough vertical adjustment, take multiple passes.

I built a 60' long aluminum rail boat lift this way. Hundreds of cuts. Secure hold down, lube, slow "up milling" rearward feed.
 

Fed

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I cut mine off with a pipe cutter but I didn't have that notch it was plain tube only.
Made a very neat clean cut.
 

Lowlysubaruguy

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A chop saw or sliding miter saw with a sharp carbide blade works better than anything I’ve found. let the saw spin to full speed and slowly enter the cut cut at what ever rate of speed is right feel the blade progressing and keep in motion two things that go wrong to fast of a downward travel or to slow. Hold it rigid and make it cut. best cuts have 1/2” or more overhang or just nibble off the end one saw blade pass at a time. Point here is figure out your cut and make it dont try to make it a little long and then trim it up. I have cut a lot of aluminum tube with a chop or in my case a sliding miter saw with great cuts. The ones that go wrong would be like trying to cut 3/8” or less. I cut 1/2” plate aluminum with a skill saw and an aluminum blade long pieces 14’ or more takes two passes. But you’ll be fine with this thin wall tube.
 

Expidia

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Thanks for all those tips on the power tools. My son has a chop saw and if I went that route I'd probably have to buy a carbide blade for it. Its holding down a bulky item like the posts that concerned me. Later today I'll mount the seats and posts to see if I'm OK with 1.5 inches higher. I stow a custom made bow dodger which stows on the aft deck which currently tends to interfere with the ability for the seats to rotate, so it might be better higher. I just don't want it to look like a Mickey Mouse job if the seats are up too high. The lower the seats the safer it is for a passeneger. Especially for my young grandchildren. I'll snap a pic.

I also have a local metal shop as someone above said that I've had him make some custom metal work for me. I'm sure he would slice it off for me need be.
 

Expidia

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Worked out great. No need to take the extra 1.5 inches off as this new height keeps the two seats above the stowed away bow dodger now. The dodger has 3 plastic windows so I try and keep the pressure off it when its stowed away,

Of course my old deck holes were 3 inches wide and the new ones needed 3.75 inches. But my Sawsall made fast work of enlarging the two holes for the bases.

click on the link that says photos after the 3 pics showing. Check out our boat's name. All 4 of our grandchildren were born in August. My wife came up with this name a couple of years ago.

Also is a pic of the bow dodger I had custom made a couple of seasons ago to keep the occassional big wave from swamping us.
 

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