How to Start a boat - Tips and Tricks

[zul]

Put in your plug, back it down the ramp and I think we all have that moment where we hope that this thing is gonna start. Pressure is on. Last week, sitting at the ramp ... crank, crank and crank. No start. Here are the steps that I take to get her going:

1. Throttle in Neutral, Choke ON (pressing in the key activates choke on my boat), turn the key 5-8 seconds.
2. Pump the ball. Try again.
3. Press the Neutral switch (button on throttle controller), move throttle into F or Forward position. Choke it and turn the key 5-8 seconds.

At this point, I've been on the ramp for 15 - 20 minutes and she won't fire up. Then, I recognize a guy who is a mechanic for the lake (from a photo on his web site). "Hey - Aren't you a mechanic?" The guy says 'Yeah' but he doesn't work on 2-stroke outboards like mine. BUT - He tells me to ....

4. Press the Neutral switch/button, move throttle to the Forward position. Choke it, turn the key AND push the throttle forward while turning the key. Dang, if that thing didn't fire up.

We then had four fine days on Lake Powell using these four steps to starting up a cold motor each morning. Can anyone shed light on better techniques or other tips and tricks that might help us all? I carry an extra set of new plugs but would rather find tips and tricks that don't involve the tool-box.

We can all use a hand in getting a cold motor started .... Right?!?

 

[JoLin]

Method depends on the motor you have. I'd assume most if not all, need some throttle advance at startup, as you found out..

My 1995 85 hp Yamaha has a 'fast-start' lever on the control box. Pulling it up advances both the throttle and ignition timing. So, I pull it up, push the key in to close the choke plates, and turn the key. Usually fires right up. As it warms up I gradually lower the fast-start lever until it's down and the motor is running at normal idle speed. Sometimes during the warmup it'll stumble and I need to push the key in for a sec., but that's about it.

My 1996 175 hp Johnson worked exactly the same way.

 

[thumpar]

Depends on the boat. On mine it is turn key to start position and let off. EFI is nice.

 

[rlb81]

What about starting it at home before you leave? That way you can work out any major problems before you leave the house,

 

[JimS123]

I believe your #4 is what the owner's manual says. In any event, that's what I would have done (and always do with mine) with a carbureted 2-stroke. Of course, you should do #2 before anything else.

New spark plugs are onboard for the unlikely event that a plug would fould due to long idling, or if a piece of gunk got trapped in the electrode. having a spare set should not be needed to start the motor because you always have new (good) plus in the motor when you intend to venture out. Other needed parts are shear pins, fuel filters and a spare prop. Again, for out-of-the-ordinary emergencies, not to do maintenance that should have been done at home.

 

[thumpar]

What about starting it at home before you leave? That way you can work out any major problems before you leave the house,

Only difference would be to put muffs on it with water running and the drive down. I start mine before every trip.

 

[64osby]

I would reverse your #1 and #2. Pumping the bulb = priming the motor.

 

[tanker1983]

I have to go with rlb. I start on muffs at the house and let it reach operating temp and then an additional ten minutes. Always a winning play.

 

[shrew]

Assumes the boat is an outboard motor, is carbureted, has a manual choke and a single, combined gear (transmission) and throttle shifter. Narrow audience.

 

[H20Rat]

I have to go with rlb. I start on muffs at the house and let it reach operating temp and then an additional ten minutes. Always a winning play.

You really do that before dropping the boat in every time? That is at least 15 to 20 minutes of idling time, which is lots of unnecessary wear, fouled plugs, and spent gas. (and unhappy neighbors if you have any, outboards aren't exactly quiet running on the hose)

I will sometimes start my boat on the trailer if it hasn't been running for awhile, but 99% of the time I back up, hit the primer, and start it up. If your engine is a huge pain to start, it usually means the carbs need a little attention. I've learned my lesson with snowmobiles... When you are pull starting a 2 stroke when its below zero, the care and feeding of the carb becomes very important!

 

[JimS123]

You really do that before dropping the boat in every time? That is at least 15 to 20 minutes of idling time, which is lots of unnecessary wear, fouled plugs, and spent gas. (and unhappy neighbors if you have any, outboards aren't exactly quiet running on the hose)

I will sometimes start my boat on the trailer if it hasn't been running for awhile, but 99% of the time I back up, hit the primer, and start it up. If your engine is a huge pain to start, it usually means the carbs need a little attention. I've learned my lesson with snowmobiles... When you are pull starting a 2 stroke when its below zero, the care and feeding of the carb becomes very important!

+1
That's a waste of time, fuel and not good for the environment. Anybody with a outboard knows how detrimental it can be.

I can honestly say that in over 50 years of boating I had an engine fail to start only once. That was due to a bad powerpack, which may not even have shown up at home.

 

[JimS123]

Assumes the boat is an outboard motor, is carbureted, has a manual choke and a single, combined gear (transmission) and throttle shifter. Narrow audience.

No assumption - that's already been stated by the OP.

 

[thumpar]

I start my boat before every outing. Usually I will let it run for around 15 minutes to check things out.

 

[JASinIL2006]

I usually do so as well, especially if we're going to a ramp that tends to be busier. I run the engine about 10 minutes or just until the temp gauge starts moving up. Just enough to help it to start on the first try when we dip it.

 

[64osby]

I will start mine on muffs before the first outing of the year. Have never had an issue going to the ramp with a cold motor.

 

[thumpar]

I will start mine on muffs before the first outing of the year. Have never had an issue going to the ramp with a cold motor.

It is not the cold motor that I worry about. I have been at the ramp with a dead battery. I also like to check the water flow since you can't see it in the water and have had a blown impeller.

 

[64osby]

Don't think running on muffs is a good indicator for a blown impeller.

I have two batteries. Just swap them if needed.

 

[thumpar]

Don't think running on muffs is a good indicator for a blown impeller.

I have two batteries. Just swap them if needed.

Well if the impeller is bad there would be no water coming out so it is a good indication. I only have 1 battery in this boat and with all the accessories and large stereo it will sometimes drain if something is left on.

 

[Frank Chyz]

I'll run my 1987 Mercury 100 HP OB in the driveway for a few minutes at the beginning of the season only. Starts every time at the ramp except once when the powerpack went out. Prime, move the throttle forward a bit, turn key . Usually starts on the 2nd attempt. Move throttle back to neutral when warm and away we go.

 

[keith2k455]

I just cycle power to make sure everything seems fine before I leave for the ramp. 4 cycle engines should have no issue unless there is another problem that you need to troubleshoot and fix.

2 cycles are a different beast, as had been noted. When I had 2 cycles, I always carried extra plugs because if it's hard enough to start a plug can foul. I would also always get the engine to "pop" before leaving the house. I wouldn't necessarily let it sit and idle or get to temp, just a pop to let me know it was ready.