How to stab distrbutor - the truth

[nateo]

I can handle the truth I just need to know what the truth is ok, so I know how to find tdc on compression stroke. Now then how the heck do I stab the distributor correctly? Currently when I'm on tdc the rotor is facing the bow, I'm going to call that 6 o'clock. Now I've heard someone say make sure rotor is lined up with #1 on the cap but it occurred to me that the cap could be turned 180 degrees. Now I'm scratching my head.

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,..... If it's the SBC in yer signature, Where ever the rotor is pointin' is Number 1,....

Run the wires on the cap to match that fact, or pull the distributor, 'n move the rotor to fall in, where you want #1 to be,....

 

[Rick Stephens]

People say to aim it at #1 so they's can remember where they stuck it :^)

 

[Eric 3.7LX Alpha 1]

Exactly both guys are right. #1 is where ever you want it to be on the cap. Usually they pick the closed one to the actual #1 cylinder to remember it.... but it doesn't matter.

To change it you will have to use a long screwdriver to turn the oil pump drive shaft which is slotted and driven by the slot in the bottom of the distributor. The distributor shaft has to align with the oil pump drive to drop all the way in.... so to change where the rotor is pointing you have to twist that shaft, and experiment. It's not usually a one shot deal unless you get lucky.

you want that rotor to be pointing to the post you want #1 to be.

 

[Scott Danforth]

With dizzy out and plugs out, rotate engine with finger over #1 plug hole. When finger is pushed off hole by air pressure, rotate motor backwards till timing marks line up. You now have motor at TDC.

Now with #1 position on dizzy, align rotor 2 teeth back. Drop dizzy in hole, rotor will turn to #1 position as its dropped. However oil drive tang is not yet engaged. Now have someone crank motor while gently pushing down on dizzy. Dizzy will drop another 1/8" as drive tang is engaged. Now install clamp and set base timing. Then tighten clamp

 

[nateo]

With dizzy out and plugs out, rotate engine with finger over #1 plug hole. When finger is pushed off hole by air pressure, rotate motor backwards till timing marks line up. You now have motor at TDC.

Hum...not sure what to believe now. As this is the opposite of what Don recommended in his post:
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...7-how-to-find-1-tdc-on-the-compression-stroke

In don's post he indicates to keep going in the same direction after the air is pushed out. Your post indicates to go backwards. typically I have been turning the engine about a quarter of a turn or so after the air is pushed out, to zero degrees. However, perhaps I'm past compression stroke once air is pushed out?

 

[nateo]

oh boy, now that I think about I think this is starting to make sense. Don's post indicated to turn only until compress starts to build up. I think I've been going too far. I'm going to try it the opposite way in the morning.

 

[nateo]

was up past 2 am thinking about this. Realized that if I wasn't on tdc then I'm going to have to go back and adjust valves as well. Can someone confirm, if air blows out have I gone too far?

 

[Scott Danforth]

If your finger blows off prior to TDC, keep rotating until TDC, however most motors will spin fast enough and most people's reaction time is slow enough to bring the motor about 10 degrees past TDC. This is where knowledge and common sense come in

 

[Fishermark]

...Now I've heard someone say make sure rotor is lined up with #1 on the cap but it occurred to me that the cap could be turned 180 degrees. Now I'm scratching my head.

The cap only fits on the distributor one way. It is the rotor that can be 180 out - and that would happen if you were not on TDC. (Just to add some confusion to the mix.... You really don't want to set it at TDC, you want to find TDC and then move the mark to the correct timing mark, whatever that may be. 8 degrees before top dead center for example. Then you drop the distributor as described in previous posts.)

 

[Bondo]

was up past 2 am thinking about this. Realized that if I wasn't on tdc then I'm going to have to go back and adjust valves as well. Can someone confirm, if air blows out have I gone too far?

Ayuh,.... Are ya rotatin' the motor, by Hand, or on the starter,..??

Do it by Hand, As the pressure builds against yer finger, the piston is Comin' Up on Tdc, Compression Stroke,....
Continue rotatin', by Hand, til the timin' marks align,....
That's Tdc, Compression Stroke,....

 

[Rick Stephens]

There are an enormous amount of great videos on YouTube on how to install a distributor. They might be worth the half hour to listen to a couple. It is a LOT easier than it sounds. Watching someone do it live will make it all come together.

 

[Bt Doctur]

There are a number of ways to set a dist. To find TDC on any motor ,remove the valve cover, and watch the #1 piston intake valve open and close. now your on compression stroke. rotate motor until the timing mark and timing tab are at "0" .This is called TDC Compression 0 degrees timing.
If there is a #1 position on the dist cap, set the rotor to point at that position and drop the dist in making sure the oil pump drive is engaged.
If there is no #1 position then most of us face the rotor to #1 cylinder in the block.

As far as adjusting the valves on a rebuild, rotate the motor until an intake valve open and closes, now your on compression stroke with both valves closed. Now adjust both valves and move to the next cylinder. rotate motor until an intake vale opens and closes, etc.

 

[nateo]

So far I've been putting the tube from my compression gauge into #1 and using a remote starter button to slowly spin motor until I hear/feel the swish coming from tube. I usually then have to continue turning it by hand about another 50 degrees (roughly, give or take) to line up the timing marks to 0.

This beast has me stumped. Damn thing sounds fine at about 800 rpm but won't stay running much less then that.