How to remove VRO system?

stingyraisin

Recruit
Joined
Nov 14, 2009
Messages
4
I have a 1997 Johnson 130. I have been having a problem with too much oil being mixed with the fuel and as a result having my plugs fouled out. It was suggested that I remove the VRO and manually mix the oil and fuel. my question is should I do this and if so how do I go about doing it. I also need to decarb the entire engine and carbs. ant advice is appreciated.
Thanks
 

Joe Reeves

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
Re: How to remove VRO system?

If the quanity of oil used has increased greatly, it may be due to a fuel restriction (less fuel, same amount of oil). If no fuel restriction exists, then you would be on the proper track (replace the VRO, or remove it and premix).

(VRO Changeover Judgement Call)
(J. Reeves)

The VROs first came out in 1984 and have been upgraded quite a few times. In my opinion, back around 1988, they had perfected them but I think that they were upgraded even more since then. As long as the warning system is operating as it should, I feel quite at ease with them.

Some boaters have voiced their thoughts such as "What if that overpriced plastic horn should fail while I'm under way for some reason, and the VRO decides to fail five minutes later?" Obviously that would result in a big problem which really brings their fears into view.

The word "ease" is the key word though. If one has the slightest feeling of being ill at ease with that setup, then they should take the route they feel more at ease with. A judgement call each individual would need to make on their own.

********************
(VRO Pump Conversion To Straight Fuel Pump)
(J. Reeves)

You can convert the VRO pump into a straight fuel pump, eliminating the oil tank and VRO pump warning system, but retain the overheat warning setup (and fuel restriction warning if so equipped) by doing the following:

1 - Cut and plug the oil line at the engine so that the oil side of the VRO pump will not draw air into its system. Trace the wires from the back of the VRO to its rubber plug (electrical plug) and disconnect it.

2 - Trace the two wires from the oil tank to the engine, disconnect those two wires, then remove them and the oil tank.

3 - Mix the 50/1 oil in the proper amount with whatever quantity fuel you have. Disconnect the fuel line at the engine. Pump the fuel primer bulb until fuel exits that hose with the tint of whatever oil you used. Reconnect the fuel hose.

That's it. If you want to test the heat warning system to ease your mind, have the key in the on position, then ground out the tan heat sensor wire that you'll find protruding from the cylinder head. The warning horn should sound off.

(Fuel Anti Siphon Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Many of the later OMC V/6 engines incorporate a fuel restriction warning via a vacuum device attached to the powerhead. If the engine overheats, or if you have a fuel restriction, the warning is the same.... a steady constant beep.

NOTE... Only the V/6 & V/8 engines have the above "Fuel Restriction Warning". The warning horn will not sound on the other models.

The fact that a engine is not overheating, but the warning horn sounds off with a constant steady beep, and that the rpms drop drastically would indicate that the engine is starving for fuel due to a fuel restriction. Check the built in fuel tank where the rubber fuel line attaches to the tank fitting. That fitting is in all probability a "Anti Siphon" valve which is notorious for sticking in a semi closed position. It will be aluminum, about 2" long, and the insides of it will consist of a spring, a ball, and a ball seat. If this valve exists, remove it, knock out those inner components which will convert it to a straight through fitting, then re-install it. Hopefully that cures the problem.

The above procedure will cure a restriction problem with the anti siphon valve as stated. BUT, it may also allow fuel to drain backwards to the fuel tank when the engine is not running (siphoning backwards) due to the fact that the carburetors/fuel pump etc are higher than the fuel tank. This condition is not an absolute as the valves in the fuel primer bulb usually prevent this backwards siphoning problem. However.... if this does take place, the cure would be to install a new anti siphon valve.
 

ezeke

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 19, 2003
Messages
12,532
Re: How to remove VRO system?

If you are determined to premix and not use the VRO/OMS pump as designed, the best solution is to continue to use the existing pump as a premix pump by disconnecting and closing the oil line to the pump.

You will need to disconnect both sets of electrical connections, one from the tank and one from the pump to the main harness.

Mix the gasoline and oil 50:1 and run the motor with both systems until you are sure that the 50:1 mix is entering the firing chambers, then disconnect the oil tank.

The easiest way to de-carbon your engine is to use the schrader valve on the primer solenoid and an aerosol treatment such as SeaFoam's Deep Creep or BRP Engine Tuner. You will need the 2.0 connector available from any BRP authorized dealer: http://shop.evinrude.com/dyn_prod.php?p=763644&k=116692
 

tashasdaddy

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Nov 11, 2005
Messages
51,019
Re: How to remove VRO system?

VRO conversion w/ pump still working

if the fuel side on your Pump is still working it is very simple. unplug the 2 line harness going to the oil tank, unplug the 3 or 4 wire harness, going to the Vro pump. cut and cap the oil line going into the motor. add oil to fuel tank, mix well, then remove fuel line at top carb, catching gas in a container, pump the fuel line bulb until you get premixed gas to the carb. you can tell as it will change color. put line back on carb, and go boating.
 

Dhadley

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 4, 2001
Messages
16,978
Re: How to remove VRO system?

If it were me I'd sure pay attention to what Joe said. If there is a fuel restriction the pump is putting extra oil into the system to save the powerhead. Disconnect the oil side of the pump and you lose your possible lifeline.

If it isn't pumping extra oil and you're fouling plugs (very hard to do with the correct plugs) then you may simply have the wrong plugs. There are 10's of thousands of those pumps out there working just fine.

BTW - you don't have a VRO system.
 

seahorse5

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jan 24, 2002
Messages
4,698
Re: How to remove VRO system?

I have a 1997 Johnson 130. I have been having a problem with too much oil being mixed with the fuel and as a result having my plugs fouled out.

I think you ought to have the motor checked out by a TRAINED Johnson-Evinrude professional.

To foul plugs from oil, you would have to run in a huge cloud of blue smoke constantly.

Ignition system condition, piston and cylinder wear, and engine operating temperature can all contribute to fouling, as well as improper adjustements and wrong sparkplug. Be sure to use the Champion QL78YC plugs gapped at .030"

For "VRO" explanation and troubleshooting, go to:

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/VRO.html
 
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