How to clean up a transom shield and repaint

Skybreeze

Seaman Apprentice
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Jul 14, 2010
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44
My stern-leg and transom shield have been painted with multiple coats of anti foul. The boat is now a trailer boat and I am in the process of re-painting the whole boat. I currently have the stern leg and shield off the boat completely apart. What is the best way to clean the whole lot back to the aluminium. I am going to repaint it in a 2 pot paint so need it cleaned right back. Thinking of various ways like an acid bath or grit blasting. Happy to take it somewhere and get it professionally done but just need to know the best way.
 

Bondo

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My stern-leg and transom shield have been painted with multiple coats of anti foul. The boat is now a trailer boat and I am in the process of re-painting the whole boat. I currently have the stern leg and shield off the boat completely apart. What is the best way to clean the whole lot back to the aluminium. I am going to repaint it in a 2 pot paint so need it cleaned right back. Thinking of various ways like an acid bath or grit blasting. Happy to take it somewhere and get it professionally done but just need to know the best way.

Ayuh,.... Soda blastin' oughta work,....

Even with a 2-pt paint, ya need an etchin' primer on bare aluminum 1st,.....
Consult yer paint supplier for a compatible etchin' primer,...
 

Skybreeze

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Jul 14, 2010
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44
Will soda blasting get rid of any corrosion as well or just the paint.
Have already consulted the paint manufacturer and he recommends not to use an etching primer under their product. Reason being as the etching primer is not designed for emersion in salt water. They have a marine coating system which consists of various primers and top coat which goes extremely hard but strict time frames must be adhered to when applying each coat.
 

dannys2004glastron175mx

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jan 15, 2014
Messages
307
Soda blasting will get rid of the corrosion . I would not paint a drive with out using zinc chromate primer with a good 2 part urethane paint . that's my 0.02 cents . :rolleyes:
 
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Skybreeze

Seaman Apprentice
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Jul 14, 2010
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I was going to use a 2 pot urethane finish. The paint is made here in New Zealand (Altex coatings) and I have been recommended just to put on the #1 first without an etching primer. Might have to do a bit more research.
 

jeffnick

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 24, 2004
Messages
695
Didn't Volvo 'etch' the surface before they painted it? Why should it need to be etched again after soda blasting if you take it down to the aluminum?
It's been my experience that with soda blasting and a bit of care, you can take one layer of paint off at a time. Once you get down to the primer couldn't you just clean it up and repaint it?
This is what I used and had great results with the leg and shield - the prop was a different story and wouldn't take paint no matter what I did.:
http://www.harborfreight.com/40-lb-portable-soda-blaster-60801-9868.html
 

Skybreeze

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Joined
Jul 14, 2010
Messages
44
Spoke to the paint rep yesterday. He recommended not to soda blast as it leaves a residue which is very hard to get rid of. Has to be water blasted at a very high pressure and even then very hard to get it all off. The secret to paint adhesion is clean. He also told me that yes Volvo do recommend an etch primer first but the problem is they don't know whether the boat is going to be full time in the water or on a trailer most of the time so they just use an etch primer on all their legs. Apparently Zinc chromate primers are not designed to be immersed full time. No problem if it spends most of its time on a trailer. I have been recommended to grit blast it with garnet and prime it with an Altex #1 primer which is designed to go straight on to the Aluminium. I have used this product before, it sticks to practically anything and is very hard wearing as it is a 2 pot primer. It is also designed to be immersed full time.
Also spoke to 2 different grit blasting companies and they both recommended garnet as the blast medium for the same reasons. 3 out of 3 from the experts so that's the way I've gone. We also happen to have a grit blaster at work with garnet so that also saves paying to have it done. Did the blasting after work yesterday and it made a really good job. Then degreased it with a degreaser that leaves no residue. Put the primer on last night. Been told to get the primer on within a couple of hours of doing the blasting as the Aluminium starts oxidizing very quickly. Looks really good so far compared to the 5 coats of anti foul that were on there. The boat should go a lot faster now without all those extra coats weighing it down.
 
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