How do you prep Honda B100 9.9 hp water pump oil seal and mating surface before installing?

[Johnsuki99]

Hi guys
I picked up an old Honda B100s 1983 outboard, and am preparing it for spring. It had water in the lower gear case and a test showed air leaking through the top below the water pump. I have a new seal coming. Part # 91252-935-004
Have a question about how to prepare the mating surface and this oil seal, that sits under the water pump. I did find that the previous oil seal was not in there flush it was at an angle. The lower unit is lowered to work on, but shift rod is still in the motor casing.

Whats the best way to clean the shaft area above the drive shaft bearing, and do you put any kind of sealant on the outside of the oil seal when you push it in? There was no sealant on there when I popped it out. Thanks.

 

[Johnsuki99]

Here is a picture of where the Oil Seal is put. How can I clean the walls best? thanks

 

[MattFL]

Not knowing exactly what's stuck on there, you can try some chemicals such as brake cleaner, carb cleaner or Goof Off/Goo Gone type of thing, but don't let it drip into the bearing. Try a cloth or a stainless steel brush by hand, do not use a spinning tool. If that doesn't work, some very fine emery cloth will work. If that bearing doesn't come out easily, then you'll want to tape it off before doing anything, so as to keep it clean, especially if you go the emery cloth route.

 

[flashback]

+1 and wash the bearings real good after.

 

[Johnsuki99]

Not knowing exactly what's stuck on there, you can try some chemicals such as brake cleaner, carb cleaner or Goof Off/Goo Gone type of thing, but don't let it drip into the bearing. Try a cloth or a stainless steel brush by hand, do not use a spinning tool. If that doesn't work, some very fine emery cloth will work. If that bearing doesn't come out easily, then you'll want to tape it off before doing anything, so as to keep it clean, especially if you go the emery cloth route.

Thanks for that info. I also spoke with two "Honda" dealer mechanics today. One told me to use Scotch Brite on the walls with a shop towel covering bearings with shop towel and no sealant on the New Seal. Thats the way I found it when I pulled it.
The other mechanic recommended Scotch Brite as well but he said to put Bellows Sealant or Permatex on the New Seal. Conflicting info.

 

[Johnsuki99]

+1 and wash the bearings real good after.

What technique ? Can I spray them and just allow the fluid to drain out ?

 

[flashback]

Yep, just pour some kerosene into the bearings while spinning and let it drain out. Do this a few times then apply some gear oil and work it in.

 

[MattFL]

Be careful with washing the bearing in-place, I believe it's open down into the gear case so whatever washes out of the bearing will go right into the gearcase. What you might try is mounting the lower unit upside-down, then pumping some gear oil into the regular fill hole, expecting it to drain outward through that bearing. Rinse it from the back side essentially. I'm not sure how good that will work, but better than rising from the top down and into the gearcase.

In most applications I have seen, the seals do not need any type of sealer around them. They're rubber and press into place, and that's enough to seal it. You will want to be careful to drive the seal in strait, if they go in crooked it can leak. You've got that shaft up the middle so it's going to be a little challenging, but maybe if you can find some PVC pipe or similar that is the correct diameter, you can slide that over the shaft and get a strait drive on the seal.

 

[Johnsuki99]

The exhaust housing needs to be removed to get the shift cable out so it can removed and turned upside down. The bearing looks really clean. The sides appear to be stained. Attached pic. This is how I found the water seal when I removed the water pump gaskets. It was not installed flush so I am hoping that is the issue. When I tried to do a pressure test with my little handheld pump it would not hold any psi and I could not see any bubbles in the soapy water. Weird. I ended up hooking my compressor up at a low psi and this way I could feel and hear air escaping from the drive shaft area. But still no soapy bubbles. I did pull the seal it got a bit damaged reinstalled with pvc pipe for kicks and its leaking.

 

[Johnsuki99]

I am waiting for the new seal to arrive. Attached is an internet parts diagram and it shows how the seal goes in. #17 The diagram is not an exact match of the actual seal. I also attached pics showing both sides of the seal. Previous owner had installed it with the gold band up but it was not flush. Are you guys able to confirm the gold band gets installed up. thx.

 

[Johnsuki99]

I am waiting for the new seal to arrive. Attached is an internet parts diagram and it shows how the seal goes in. #17 The diagram is not an exact match of the actual seal. I also attached pics showing both sides of the seal. Previous owner had installed it with the gold band up but it was not flush. Are you guys able to confirm the gold band gets installed up. thx.

Hi guys.
well I managed to get the B100 running, ran good and strong and used it some on the lake. End of season when I opened the gearcase nut after to check, water is getting in. So I decided to change out the prop side O ring and Water Seal. 18 and 19 in this part list. The radial bearing 22 popped out easy enough but the Water seal is original I guess and really on there. Got most of it by picking and pulling. What remains is ugly, the metallic ring and rubber. I don't want to destroy the housing can't get it any more. Recommendations please how to remove whats left. see second pic. thank you.

 

[Johnsuki99]

Hi guys.
well I managed to get the B100 running, ran good and strong and used it some on the lake. End of season when I opened the gearcase nut after to check, water is getting in. So I decided to change out the prop side O ring and Water Seal. 18 and 19 in this part list. The radial bearing 22 popped out easy enough but the Water seal is original I guess and really on there. Got most of it by picking and pulling. What remains is ugly, the metallic ring and rubber. I don't want to destroy the housing can't get it any more. Recommendations please how to remove whats left. see second pic. thank you.

update.
Was able to talk to my son who is a millwright.
He told me to clean out the remaining rubber, get a socket that sits on the metallic ring, put the housing in a vice and try to tap it out. If that doesnt work give the housing cap a little heat to break any bonding that has happened with the ring and housing. Then try to tap it out again.

 

[Johnsuki99]

No go on tapping it out and I did not want to hit harder. 40 years its been on there. Ended up making a cut with the dremel and yanking it out with pliers. For all the trouble this water seal was, I hope that I just did not need a new 0 ring.

 

[flashback]

Next time you will know. Good job. Most folks would not have suggested to cut it, not knowing your skills.