How do you know when it is time to replace points, distributor cap, and rotor?

[northernterritory]

Is this something you do just because “it has been a while,” or is there a test or symptoms that can be used as a determinator?

Also, a related question, the tune-up kit looks like it only contains the cap and rotor. Is that correct? I have searched and can not find just points.

 

[Maclin]

What are you working on?

 

[Maclin]

Sorry, what year, model, etc... It may not even have points.

 

[Chigwalla]

Generally a 'tune-up' is cap, rotor and plugs and every 3-4 years, like a water pump.
If you run more than 100hrs/yr, go with every 300hrs.
Plug wires are ten years and are date stamped.
Points & condenser are also changed at tune-up although it's pretty rare to see points now.
If your kit didn't have them, your engine probably doesn't either.

Symptoms ? Hard starting & rough idle when you do get it running.

 

[northernterritory]

Sorry,

It is a 98 Penta 3.0. I'm just fully going through everything. I just got the cylinder head back from the machine shop and put on (valves were rusted and not seated).

 

[QBhoy]

Hi
great engine.
Generally what you want to do is change the oil and filter every year or 100hrs (whichever comes first) and the fuel filter and spark plugs.
Perhaps every 3/4 years you can change the HT leads, distributor, cap and rotor.
Good practice to wash the air filter out every year too.
Not mich to these engines really.
Just remember to change the gear oil in the drive every year too.

 

[northernterritory]

It looks like if I put the new rotor in the same direction as the old one, the timing should not be affected, correct?

Thankfully, it is the electronic spark timing system, so no points. This means a dwell meter is not needed, right?

I’ve read that ignition capacitors rarely go out. Is that true? How can I test mine?

Anything I need to do to ensure I do not electrocute myself?

 

[Grub54891]

No, the dwell is for points only. Checking the timing is a good thing to do just because of wear on the other related components, bit it should not have changed much. If you have good bright spark, all is good. Most of the time if there is an ignition problem, no spark, it's the ignition module itself, or the coil. If it's getting power it should spark.

 

[Scott Danforth]

It looks like if I put the new rotor in the same direction as the old one, the timing should not be affected, correct?

Thankfully, it is the electronic spark timing system, so no points. This means a dwell meter is not needed, right?

I’ve read that ignition capacitors rarely go out. Is that true? How can I test mine?

Anything I need to do to ensure I do not electrocute myself?

no dwell as indicated above. also no capacitor (condensor) as that is for points only unless you get a CDI ignition, which you do not have.

as for cap and rotor, inspect yearly, replace if the contacts are green or the rotor button is worn down to nothing.

 

[Lou C]

Agree with the above, I change the cap and rotor when the contacts get corroded, the wires I check with an ohm meter. Points seem to last me about 4-5 seasons.

BTW weren't you the one doing a cyl head replacement? How did it turn out?

 

[northernterritory]

Agree with the above, I change the cap and rotor when the contacts get corroded, the wires I check with an ohm meter. Points seem to last me about 4-5 seasons.

BTW weren't you the one doing a cyl head replacement? How did it turn out?

Thats me. I had the cylinder head at the machine shop. It was warped and the valves weren’t seating properly. They shaved off the face to make it level, fixed the cakes, and said the head is now in like-new condition. I put it back on and did a compression test; 140psi on all cylinders. Now I’m putting it back together, which I’m about to make a new post about now asking for addition advice.

 

[alldodge]

Changed my cap/rotor/plugs for the first time after 21 years (Rinker) and noticed no change after doing so. Might replace the wires one of these years but so far, boat still runs without issues

Do agree with others, need to have a look and see if it may need it

 

[1994almeida]

Engine 5.0 GI year 1999
I change the cap and rotor when the contacts are corroded.
But the wires, after 19 years, checked with an ohm meter are ok (máx 7000 ohms per foot).
I haven’t ignition problems.
So should be advice to replace the wires?