Honda bf50 ticking noise

Curt k.

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Aug 30, 2020
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I recently picked up a McKee craft 14 with a 1997 Honda bf50. Motors got good compression and seem to run well. However there’s a loud ticking noise above idling rpms that seems to be coming from under the flywheel. I’m pretty sure it’s not from the valves. Here is a video of it: https://youtu.be/xFpNHoEc8xM
Any feedback would be appreciated.
 

MattFL

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Oct 20, 2010
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I have a 99' of the same motor. When it was a few years old, one of the magnets under the flywheels came loose and was tapping the stator as it went around. It sounded like a rod knock in my case. Anyway, it was apparently a known issue and even though the motor was out of warranty, Honda paid for the parts (I paid for the labor). Also in my case it got worse as the motor got hot. Maybe this is worth checking on your motor.

Unrelated, I believe your carburetors are out of sync or one or more of them need to be cleaned out. Your motor is shaking a lot more than normal at lower speeds. If yours has those wonderful EPA fuel screws in it that only allows you to turn it about 30 degrees, you can remove them and install normal adjustable ones which really helps with both cleaning the carburetors and getting the thing to idle reliably. The heads break right off then a screw extractor (left hand bit) zips them right out. Assuming the 1997 is the same as the 1999, post back if you want to make the change and I'll post some pictures and part numbers from when I did it.
 

ahicks

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Engine needs some lovin for sure! Bet it's worth the trouble too.....

I like Matt's idea of pulling the flywheel to see if something is going on there.
 

Curt k.

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Thanks for the response. I’m definitely going to pull the flywheel of and see if there’s any loose magnets. I’ll probably change the timing belt while I’m at it. The top carb does have an epa screw which I’ll change out. Luckily I got a parts motor with extra carbs on it.
 

ahicks

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I've purchased motors that come with a second "parts" motor on several occasions. I generally get them BOTH running! Just sayin....
 

MattFL

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Those carbs are not difficult to clean. Disassemble, shoot carb cleaner and air through every hole and you should be good. There are tiny holes in the top of the carburetor throat, cleaner will come out of those when you shoot it in one of the holes in the front of the carb. Those got clogged up pretty good on mine once, the cleaner really made a difference. Wear goggles, it can come back at you. If you're really careful, you can sync the carburetors "good enough" without the sync tool. If I remember correctly, back the idle out until the bottom plate closes fully. Then adjust the other two until those plates are just closed. Turn the idle up and you should be in the ballpark. You can adjust it a little further by ear and get it running pretty smooth. If you have a sync tool then use it, but if you don't and you're careful you can get away without it. They are solid motors. I bought mine new in 99' and it has seen year round use in salt ever since, with lots and lots of cruising above 5000rpm. Now I'm on at least the 3rd hour meter, and it ran a few years without one (the Honda one in the dash broke, the others went dead) and this one is reading almost 500 hours, so there must be well into the thousands of hours on it.

Here's a picture of how I got the fuel screws out of mine. Just pop the top off with a screw driver, and use a left-handed screw extractor and they come out super easy. If you don't mind cutting up the carburetors, you can probably cut a groove in them with a dremmel, but I preferred not to damage the carburetor at all. The picture shows 2 broken off heads and the fuel screws removed, one is still attached to the screw extractor. The part number on the bag is the screw I replaced them all with.
 

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Curt k.

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Pulled the flywheel today. No loose magnets or anything seeming out of the ordinary. Do you think that noise is concerning?

On the other hand I got the carbs off and broke off the head on the epa screw. Just need to get an extractor. That was helpful information.
 

ahicks

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Yes, I'd be concerned.....
Are your engine lights working? If so is the green light (indicating good oil pressure) on while the engine is running?
 

MattFL

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Great tip about the oil pressure light.

Also you can try to narrow down the location of the tick noise using a mechanics stethoscope:

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=engine+st..._ts-apa-p_1_12

Also be sure to look closely at the coil and parts under the flywheel for signs of things touching, just to check that off the list. I'm thinking even if the magnet isn't loose to the touch, the tolerances are pretty tight so if it's just dislodged a bit maybe it could still touch something.

Continuing the theme of oil pressure; if the oil has been in the motor for a while (not brand new), you can both take a sample and send it to Blackstone or other analysis company, and cut open the oil filter and look for signs of metal bits. If the oil analysis shows a lot of metal, even if you cannot see it, then that could be a sign of something bad inside the motor. Likewise if you see metal bits in the oil filter then that would be bad.
 
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schematic

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what I hear on the video is a poorly running honda with likely plugged carbs...
 
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