Help, can't reach 2nd carb bolt on 2010 NS15C

[David BH]

Great forum and i was hoping someone might be able to help or at least sympathize. I've watched a few videos but in every one the person is able to snake a socket extension in from the front of the motor just under the air cleaner. Those people must be working on different year models because on this 2010 there appears to be no way to run a socket extension in that way. From the side you can just about get an open end box wrench on the bolt but there is no room to wrench it. i'll include a side view in case it helps and thanks in advance if anyone wants to chime in.

 

[w2much]

I have taken it out as described. It is actually quicker to just remove the manifold as the manual suggest. Although this will cost you a new manifold gasket. They are inexpensive. By the waya good idea to replace the two small carb gaskets that sandwich the spacer. Good luck.

 

[David BH]

Thanks! i didn't realize that and i have both the owners manual and the parts manual for this motor but hadn't got the service manual yet; i believe i saw it in one place for about $50...
Anyway it seems like a poor design that you cannot take the carb off by itself like on most motors... oh well

 

[w2much]

It is actually easier depending on or not you have electric start, t & T and other wires there.

 

[pvanv]

Take the carb and intake off as a unit. That's how I do it.
Any dealer will have your Factory service manual. Part #: 003-21062-0 List Price (MSRP): $50.00

 

[David BH]

Thanks guys. Yes it does have electric start. I've rebuilt carbs in vehicles before but right now this motor is on the transom of my RIB in the water at a marina. I don't have a shop or means to get it to one and the marina frowns on people placing outboards on the dock and tearing them apart.
Perhaps this is easy enough to do with the RIB in the water, or I could wait until i get it back up on the davits on the upper deck of the boat, at least then it would be more stable.

 

[pvanv]

I have done it in the water. Just be careful not to drop anything in the water. You will need to fully disassemble the carb, soak all non rubber parts overnightr in real carb dip, and then spray it out with a whole can of generic carb spray, then reassemble and reinstall.

 

[David BH]

Update: Thanks you guys were right; I found you can get to the carb bolts by simply loosening the manifold without fully removing (I know you recommended a new gasket but I needed a quick solution and don't have access to Tohatsu parts in this area).
Definitely used a can of carb cleaner on everything. There was one small needle jet that was clogged with very hard material; had to work it for a long time by first soaking it in a semi-caustic rust remover then with a thin wire until i was finally able to poke it all the way through. A tip from a boating neighbor suggested to use the twist tie found on most loaves of bread; remove the paper or plastic from that twist tie and you have about the right size wire to ream out the jet.
FYI: we also found a way to use a dremel tool to notch out a portion of the plastic air cleaner that blocks access to the inner carb bolt. This didn't impact the function of the air cleaner but hopefully will allow quicker access to the carb bolt the next time I have to work on it.
The whole job took about 4 hours, mostly because that one jet was very stubborn but likely the source of my motor stuttering at mid to high RPMs. I took the dinghy out after all was done and acceleration was extremely smooth and no stuttering.
Thanks again for your advice!

 

[pvanv]

Now, to prevent this in the future, always make sure the carb is run dry or drained at the end of the day.