having trouble removing prop

[lakeuser]

Hi iam having trouble removing the prop i removed the nut and the lock and it wont slide off what do i need to do thanks for any ideas John

 

[lakeuser]

Sorry forgot to give more info its a 1988 100 hp mercury thanks

 

[roscoe]

When was the last time it was off ?
Could be corrosion. Prop should be removed at least once a year, and fresh grease applied to the prop shaft.

Sometimes a light whack with a two by four will free it up.

 

[lakeuser]

Hi i just bought the boat where should i give it a whack? on the blades? tthanks for your help

 

[jimmbo]

Place piece of wood against the root of the blade just behind the gearcase, and tap on the wood. Rotate the props so as to tap on all the blades. You could try applying some penetrating oil to the propshaft where it comes out of the prop

 

[Chris1956]

Tilt her up and apply some penetrating oil around the splines on the prop shaft. Let her sit a while. Then I use a 2X4 to pry against the blades and the gearcase, gently. Rotate and pry against all 3 blades.

 

[Scott Danforth]

if all else fails, fire up the grinder with a cut-off wheel and cut the prop off, then carefully split the hub to remove it. annual maintenance is to remove the prop at least once a year to check seals and to grease the shaft.

 

[Texasmark]

I preferred the whack to the prying.

Any connection I ever had problems removing responded better with impact than brute force.....especially SS bolts screwed into marine aluminum castings.....that you want to remove without twisting the heads off.

Lubriplate (brand) grease, available at WW and a lot of auto parts stores, the white stuff in the black and silver can, has been a marine grade lube well before the 50+ years I have been boating and used it. Stays in place and is water proof. Or Mercury/Quicksilver has their blue black grease in a tube that is excellent....when you can find it and if you can find an adapter too, fits the little grease nipple (not zerk) on your engine pivot shaft...the one just aft of the clamp bracket center.

 

[alldodge]

I feel your pain, I'm still working trying to get the one off my chrysler and its not bugging. Folks need to do their maintenance. Wonder if somebody makes a puller

 

[jimmbo]

The rubber hub often pulls out before the shaft lets the hub go

 

[lakeuser]

Well i tried the wood with a little spray came right off thanks for everyones input. I didnt see any washer behind the prop i looked at the prop the hole in the back looked tapered and so does the shaft is this right? I thought maybe the washer was stuck to the prop but it looks like its part of the prop also didnt see any numbers for size? does anyone know where they would be? thanks for any help John

 

[jimmbo]

The thrust washer does have a taper that matches the taper on the prop shaft. Usually the washer stays on the shaft, but if there is some corrosion it could cling to the prop.
Prop info could be on the hub between a couple of the blades, or on some brands, it could be on one of the blades

 

[Texasmark]

The thrust washer does have a taper that matches the taper on the prop shaft. Usually the washer stays on the shaft, but if there is some corrosion it could cling to the prop.
Prop info could be on the hub between a couple of the blades, or on some brands, it could be on one of the blades

+1.................. or on the face of the prop barrel, outboard side

 

[jimmbo]

+1.................. or on the face of the prop barrel, outboard side

That's what I said "on the hub between a couple of the blades,"

 

[Texasmark]

I feel your pain, I'm still working trying to get the one off my chrysler and its not bugging. Folks need to do their maintenance. Wonder if somebody makes a puller

I built my own once. Took some chain and a piece of all thread, don't remember the diameter, something that would fit in the links of the chain and large enough to provide some torque without stripping the threads. Wrapped the chain around the prop blades at the root and wired it so that it couldn't slip down blade of the prop. Sharpened the end of the all thread and with washers and nuts looped the 3 sections of chain onto the all thread and applied pressure to the prop shaft by turning the nuts. That, time, more PB Blaster penetrating oil, and impact got her off. Didn't want to cut the prop off thus destroying it. Yes I learned my lesson.

 

[Texasmark]

That's what I said "on the hub between a couple of the blades,"

My Merc props were stamped where you said. My Ballistic and Michigan wheels were stamped on the rear....remove the prop nut and locks and look straight at the end of the prop barrel. I call the outer shell the barrel to differentiate between that and the splined part that attaches to the propshaft which I call the hub. Helps me when talking about hub slippage.