Have too re paint out drives

[alan ber]

A number fellow boaters on this forum warned me not too but I went from in/out storage into a wet slip ,
Bottom never painted ,
Had marina paint barrier & anti fowling paint , using Vivid
Vivid has no copper and can be used on drives so they said , I did contact Pettit and this was confirmed ,
Boat - 30 ft cruiser
Volvo Penta TWIN DUO DPX DRIVES . 2 props per drive
Job completed boat put back into water ,
I walked the boat and it looked OK

After 10 months I pulled boat other day ,
Stainless Props paint was gone , loaded with barnacles . , .
Drives had some barnacles , not a lot ,
Bellows had growth ,
Can only imagine what the cavity and areas of the drives look like ?

Green slime on hull that came off easily with power washer

Trailered boat home , I have a week before code enforcement starts busting , ,

, Have a few questions

BELLOWS area limited growth , Sprayed barnacle buster and pressure washed , bit cleaner but a worm looking
barnacle still on bellows

Sanding and power washing drives , some of the Vivid came off , so my plan is too sand clean drives applying new
anti fowling

Props scraped clean , I understand Lime Away removes all spots

TRILUX 33 is popular , ( or other brand )
Others suggested 2-3 coats of primer hand painted on drives then spray TRILUX 33 ( one can per drive ?)

Stainless Props how many barrier coats? Anti Fowling how many coats ?

Is there some sort of liquid chemical I can put into a sprayer too spray breaking up barnacles all over
in cavities that No paint can be used
Muriatic acid , 50/50 in a sprayer , rinse with water , baking soda too neutralize acid ?

Had no water line and marina painted using hulls crease , Painted way too high , Blue Vivid Paint ,on white hull
What is the process too remove some bottom paint so it does not look out of place ,
I though about going over that area with white anti fowling this way would not look so high ?

Thank You

 

[Scott Danforth]

Ted has a few threads with him painting his drives and his props. Hey tpenfield

to remove bottom paint involves lots of sanding, then restoring the fiberglass surface. part of applying bottom paint is to sand the fiberglass with 40 grit to get the bottom paint to stick.

so, sanding down the bottom paint to fiberglass usually involves restoring the gel coat if you want it back a shiny surface.

 

[tpenfield]

My comments . . .

10 months in the water is WAY too long. You should plan to pull the boat more frequently and do the clean-up, re-paint, and replace anodes

Barnacles and sea life . . . Clorox, then Barnacle Buster

I use Trilux 33 . . . not sure what color they have for Volvo Penta outdrives. I used either a HLVP spray gun or a 1" roller. 1-2 coats should be fine . . . maybe a 3rd coat for extended life.

I primed the outdrives with Interlux Interprotect EP2000 . . . awesome paint.

I prime the props with Cold Galvanizing paint, then paint with Trilux 33.

What do the anodes look like after 10 months :noidea:

As far as the paint too high up on the hull . . . try some Peel Away to soften up the paint. See if you can get most of it off before doing any sanding.

 

[Lou C]

Agreed 10 months is way too long, just the growth in the water intakes unless rodded out will start to cause overheating. I have found that for a full season here in the north east salt water 2 brushed/rollered on coats of Trilux is needed to not have growth at the end of the season, I also use the spray but only where a brush won't reach.

 

[alan ber]

Thank You , getting on it today ,

 

[alan ber]

CONTINUED , while out plan was too change gear oil ,
MUD , water is mixing on both drives ,
Volvo Penta DPX duo drives , seals ? will be posting another post on VP IO too get info what too expect

 

[Lou C]

You'll need a pressure test & vacuum test to identify the bad seals. What environment is the boat kept in? Salt water?
10 months in salt water is a very long time. The longest I had mine in was 6 and there was a lot of cleaning work to be done afterward. What I usually do is pull it mid season after 3 months and do a quick clean, touch up of paint and check of gear oil/anodes. Less problems that way. Long term storage in the water you want inboards or outboards. I/Os will be a trial and test of patience, unless when painting them you REALLY take your time and get a good coating on the drives and transom mounts. The quick coat that the yards do will not last. Been there done that and would never have another I/O in my environment. Modern outboards have many many advantages in this environment.