Getting Water Out of Cylinders

Horigan

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 12, 2016
Messages
673
I had a water intrusion event on one side of my V8 due to a failed exhaust riser. I've pulled the exhaust manifold, riser, elbow, and exhaust hoses. I've pulled all the plugs and cranked the engine several times to get most of the water out. I used a shop vac with small hose to get more of the water out. I've sprayed fogging oil into the cylinders, cranked the engine again to coat the cylinders, and fogged them again. I can still see some liquid in the cylinder when the pistons are at top dead center.

My replacement parts should be here in 7-10 days. I'm concerned that what little water is in the cylinders will do some damage by then. I was going to crank the motor every few days with more oil to prevent any water sitting on one spot too long, but I'm now wondering if I should put all the plugs back in, block the raw water flow to that side, and run the engine without the exhaust manifold to get all the water out.

Question to you all, should I run the engine, or just keep fogging and rotating the engine every few days?

As background, here's how the water got in there. Did our first outing of the year on our lake and after five minutes started to smell overheat. Opened the engine cover and noted mild smoke from the starboard side. Put an IR gun to the riser and it read 175F. The port side was 110F. This surprised me since when I winterized I checked the elbow temps and they were even. (The manifold/riser on that side are six years old, (trailered and run with fresh water after each outing.)) Decided to have lunch and let it cool, then slowly motor back. After a few minutes of running the overheat smell and smoke got worse, so we shutdown. After a few minutes we heard a loud "Twank!". After it cooled down a bit tried to start it, but it was hydro-locked.

Surprisingly, Towboat couldn't get a boat or contractor out to me on Lake Whatcom, a large lake two miles from Bellingham with two ramps. They suggested calling the Sheriff, who couldn't put a boat in because their trailer was getting worked on. Finally flagged down a boater who towed us back.

With the plugs out I've confirmed all the pistons on that side rise up to the same level, so I don't think the starter hydro-lock did any damage. I've inspected the manifold and riser and can not find any breach between the water and exhaust passages. Weird. Fingers crossed.
 

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
12,674
I don't know about running it without the manifold, I've seen this done on an engine stand but never with the engine in the boat. Will put out a lot of CO gas so that's a hazard. Just keep fogging the heck out of it. When my head gaskets blew I had water in #2 and a mist of water in #1. Salt water too. Boat was on the mooring. Drained all water, fogged it, had boat pulled in. Did diagnostics verified blown HGs. Kept running it and draining it after each use to change oil 4 times. Stored for winter. Had a warm spell that Feb and took the engine apart. The fogging oil was still in the cyls and nothing looked rusted except the combustion chambers of the cast iron heads. So I think you'll be OK. Fogging and rotating helps. This pic was taken in Feb of '17, blown HGs happened in Aug of '16.
 

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Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 25, 2004
Messages
27,851
Gee, dump some alcohol into the cylinders. It mixes with water and you can draw it out. Mix some 2 cycle with the alcohol to help lubricate.
As long as it is fresh water, I expect no issue.
 

Horigan

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 12, 2016
Messages
673
Thanks guys. I'll try the alcohol and just keep it lubricated and moving until my manifolds arrive.
 

Horigan

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 12, 2016
Messages
673
Thanks! WD-40 will be easier to get in there than alcohol.
 
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