Getting started - 65ish Lark 7

[saxis]

Hello,<br /><br />I bought a 40hp Evinrude Lark 7 last summer and finally have the time to work on it. I do not have the numbers at hand, although it is believed to be a 1965, has Selectric shift and appears to be in great condition still. It has sat outside for 3 years without running, and 8 months in my garage. This is my first boat and outboard, and I know little about them, but I've tinkered around with the electrical and have figured out the junction box and ignition switch wiring. The motor does turn over, the electric starter works great, I believe I got the Selectric shift working, the electric choke solenoid clicks, but I do not know if it is working correctly. There is VERY little rust on the motor itself, although the junction box needed a good cleaning. I have a Seloc 1959-1970 Evinrude manual, and can't really afford parts atm, although I don't think I will need much. So my question is...<br /><br />Where do I look next as far as general maintenance for an old motor and things to check?<br /><br />Also the manual says these take a special lower unit lubricant?<br /><br />Thanks for any help!

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: Getting started - 65ish Lark 7

Welcome to Iboats, Saxis!<br /><br />Yes, the selectric shift outboards need to be run with OMC/BRP (Bombardier Recreational Products) 'Premium Blend' brand lower unit oil, to the exclusion of all others. Don't even use 3rd party ones that claim to be compatible.<br /><br />There's a few things you'll have to have a look at before running it. First, you abolutely must replace the water pump impeller. They go bad just sitting around and should be replaced every couple seasons - especially if you run in salt water. Iboats or NAPA autoparts can sell you pretty cheap.<br />A common problem with these engines have is with the ignition system. The coils crack as they get old and need to be replaced. Since your engine was running a few years ago, this has probably been done already. Ensure you can draw a spark at least 1/4" long off each plug wire. You can take the plugs out to test this if you like.<br />The third most likely thing you'll need to have a look at is the carburetor. If it wasn't drained when it was last used the gas in the bowl has probably turned to goo and you'll have to rebuild the carb. Get your carb kit (~$25) from a Johnson/Evinrude dealer since they come with a new modern fuel tolerant float. The Iboats one does not.<br />I strongly suggest you replace all the fuel and vaccum lines as a matter of course. If they're original then they're brittle and cannot be relyed on. They may start shedding their linings into the carb, etc.<br />Finally, when you do get it fired up, you're going to want to give it a serious decarb. Have a look up in the Engine FAQ Forum for the procedure. I suspect it'll make a big difference on your engine.<br /><br />All in all, these old OMCs are pretty inexpensive to work on. Impeller is around $15, coils can be had for under $20, that sort of thing. The only concern is the electric shift since it is very expensive to repair and finding parts for it is difficult.<br /><br />Hope this helps!<br /><br />EDIT: One other thing - test or replace the thermostat. You can test it by putting it in a pot of water on the stove and observe it opening when the tempurature reaches around 140° (use a meat thermometer). This is hardly mentioned at all in the Seloc manual, except in section 3-4 (Head Service).

 

[saxis]

Re: Getting started - 65ish Lark 7

Thanks for the speedy reply!<br /><br />I'll have to get started on this as soon as I can afford some parts. Think I can figure most of this out with my manual.<br /><br />My primary concerns on this motor was the electrical/junction box, and the carb. It sat outside uncovered in the Seattle rain for 3 years. The starter solenoid seems to be ok, and I managed to get it cranking after some cleaning. I put new terminals on some of the wires, including battery connections. Some of the connections are still looking pretty rusty but working as far as I can tell. I know nothing about carbs, and knew I may have to do some work on it. Is there detailed information on how to rebuild a carb with the kit?

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: Getting started - 65ish Lark 7

Not really, but it seems to me that the Seloc manual isn't so bad in that respect, once you identify the parts that describe your carburetor. The factory manual is better, but the Seloc one you have should do you fine. If you run into anything that really stumps you, then you can post here and get an answer fast.<br />One thing Seloc leaves out is that when rebuilding the carb you really should remove the soft core plugs and clean behind them. The carb kit will come with new ones. If you look at the diagram on page 4-33, right above the body of the carb is a fingernail-sized flat disc. That's the core plug. To remove the old ones you carefully drill through the center of them with a 1/8" drill bit and pry them off. The new ones go in convex side up and you tap them with a hammer and punch until they expand and seal. It's a good idea to coat them in sealer.<br />The electrical box shouldn't be too much of a worry - there's not much going on inside there. Just clean up all those connections, etc. If you have a generator, the regulator might be ruined. But new ones are inexpensive. As for the carb, I don't think a little Seattle rain will hurt it, as I've got plenty here that have seen a lot more time in salt fog. And the one in my pic (little house icon) spent a few days on the bottom of the Atlantic then 10 years or so outside without cover.

 

[saxis]

Re: Getting started - 65ish Lark 7

Ok, I started tearing into the lower unit today to see what shape the impeller was in. Everything was going good until I tried to take out the 3 screws holding the water pump in. 1 screw is out, 1 broke off, and couldn't get the last one. The Seloc manual says that the water pump may have to be chiseled out if this happens? This is my first time looking at an outboard, so if anyone can give me some good detail on where to start chiseling, or what to do now would help greatly! Looks like the LU is in pretty good shape otherwise so far. I'm suprised to find how clean and rust free this old beast is!<br /><br />Thanks for any and all help!

 

[OBJ]

Re: Getting started - 65ish Lark 7

Hi Saxis.<br /><br />You need to get the housing off the impeller to get to the water pump impeller. The third screw must come out or you can file the head off to leave a stud you can get hold of after the housing is off. These screws can be drilled out fairly easy and the hole re-tapped if they break off flush.<br /><br />What the manual was refering to was the impeller. Sometimes the impeller will seize to the shaft and the only way to get them off is to chisel the impeller hub apart which is not to bad since the hub is brass. But before doing that, try soaking the hub with some good penetrating oil or penetrant like PB Blaster. Let is soak and then tap the impeller with a hammer to losen it up. Don't work all the time but on occasion, I've had it work on stubborn impellers.<br /><br />If the chisel is needed, make sure it's sharp. If you have a dremel tool, a small cuting blade can be used to cut a slot in the hub. This makes it come apart easier. Cutting the rubber away from the hub helps also.

 

[saxis]

Re: Getting started - 65ish Lark 7

Thanks for the reply OBJ<br /><br />Just want to make sure of what I'm doing before I damage something expensive! 1 of the screws did break off flush. Do I need to drill it out before I can get the housing off?

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: Getting started - 65ish Lark 7

Sorry to hear that, but I'm afraid it's fairly normal when your working on outboards. Although Seloc does talk about smashing up the housing with a hammer chisel, I would reccomend against it. You can work it off the old screw studs and save it with a little care. A new waterpump including impeller and housing is $70.<br />At this stage, get some penetrating oil on the old screw holes (if there's still screw studs left) and try working out or cutting off the remaining screw. If you have studs left sticking up, sometimes they remove easily enough with vice-grips once the housing is off. The white corrosion between the aluminium housing and the stainless screws is what grabs them. You'll see what I mean when you try to pry off the housing. The inexpensive water pump kit from Iboats/NAPA comes with a new stainless plate for underneath the waterpump, so don't worry if that gets a little dented up in the effort.<br />The ultimate tool for removing stuck screws and bolts, heat, cannot be used in this circumstance due to the proximity of the driveshaft seal. If you used a powerful torch that could get the heat there quickly it would be alright, but I don't think that would be a good idea in the hands of a novice. It gets too easy to melt down aluminium with an oxy-acetylene torch.<br />This is one of the really good reasons to service your waterpump frequently. If those screws and bolts arn't exercised frequently, they corrode together and a simple job like this turns into a big, rotten job. When reassembling things, coat all your bolts in sealant to prevent a repeat.<br /><br />Good luck!

 

[saxis]

Re: Getting started - 65ish Lark 7

I think I'll stay away from using heat... the third screw broke off also, and I can't seem to get the housing to budge... any tricks?<br /><br />Also I'm assuming I will need the repair kit and possibly one with a new housing? I would assume a kit with a new housing would come with new screws, but does the kit without housing come with these screws? I did not see a repair kit on iBoats for a 1965 40hp, only an impeller. I've got a NAPA store close by, hopefully they've got them. Thanks!

 

[lark2004]

Re: Getting started - 65ish Lark 7

very carefull prying, the housing is a tight fit (in mine) and needs a little persuasion to come up of the L/U. You should also take care around the shift wires where they go through the housing. The old tube on mine had started to fall apart and was stuck to the housing.

 

[saxis]

Re: Getting started - 65ish Lark 7

I did manage to get the housing free after tapping on top of the broken screw studs, taking the 2 copper water tubes off and prying a little.The impeller wasn't melted or anything, but looked quite old. I also finally got around to draining the lower unit, and no sign of water or metal shavings. The oil was pitch black, is that normal?

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: Getting started - 65ish Lark 7

That sounds real good Saxis! If it's black it's just been a long time since it's changed. No shavings or water is what you want to see. Glitter in it is fine however.<br /><br />I'm also glad to hear you managed to get the housing off. I was wrong about Iboats/etc carrying a water pump kit with a new wear plate - they do that for other Johnny/Rudes of this era, but not yours. They just have the impeller.<br />I'm pretty sure the dealer water pump comes with new screws, but if it doesn't they're just #10-24 stainless screws 1" long, which you can just get at the hardware store.<br /><br />That impeller was dead. The amount of effort required to get it out told you so. Your new one will have all it's vanes sticking straight out. Just remember that if it fails, your engine will be quickly destroyed.<br /><br />Get those studs soaking in penetrating oil for a while, and then try to unwind them. Exercise paitence and care because if they come out whole, it'll save you some work drilling and tapping them out.

 

[saxis]

Re: Getting started - 65ish Lark 7

I forgot to mention the part about the screw studs... they did eventually come out after grabbing them with a pair of channel-locks. A tight place to twist, but after a couple hours, they came out!<br /><br />Thanks for all the help so far!

 

[lark2004]

Re: Getting started - 65ish Lark 7

but after a couple hours they came out!<br />

Take note, stuck screws do take time to remove. You are one of the few people I know of who likes to take their time. Very good work!

 

[saxis]

Re: Getting started - 65ish Lark 7

Hi again... After the government gives my money back, I plan to start buying some parts for this motor and my boat restoration project. What guages should I get for this motor and any recommendations on what/where to get them from?<br /><br />Thanks!