Getting ready for salt on my "virgin".....

[mohead1]

Well, Im doing and extended stint in south Florida, and if ya aint gotta boat ya aint ****e, so Im bringing my lakester down from Tennessee....shes a virgin and never seen salt. So, I trying to make up a good list of things to do prior to immersing it in the "solution".

Im going to change all the anodes over to aluminum, even thought they look good right now, not taking any chances. Also seriously considering installing a Mercathode system even though Im not planning on leaving it in the water, just day runs, maybe some afternoon dockage.

My outdrive has some paint rubbed off the bottom of the skeg, and a few places on the upper drive that have some paint spots chipped, so Im going to use the right stuff and repaint to ensure no degredation of the drive metal.

Pulling the exhaust and risers off and carefully inspecting them to make sure no suspect areas that will progress quickly with salt. Also trying to make up my mind if I should have a flushing system. Many here say running on the muffs wont do anything, but I thought that it would.

I changed about piece of suspect hardware over to stainless a while ago, so I should be good there. Hell I even just bought an all aluminum trailer to swap over to, and gonna sell my steel one.

Any other thoughts or comments? I want to have a good time without constantly worrrying about my boat getting messed up in the salt water.

 

[emoney]

Re: Getting ready for salt on my "virgin".....

You might as well take it out into the Gulf and pull the plug and let it sink. The salt water is going to corrode it minute you launch, and odds are, it will even eat your children and pets if you have any. Everybody knows that. Did you see the movie "The Blob"? If you did, I can tell you right now the Blob was just a big pile of salt water. It's a pure killer.

Ok, now that's out of the way, it might keep some of the fresh water folks from scaring the bajeesus out of you. Sounds to me like you've researched enough and you know to be smart. Here's the deal; if you put your boat in the water and leave it there for the next year, you'll end up with corrosion, but a still functioning boat. 2 years from now, a lot more corrosion, but still ok. (See where this is going?) Eventually, the salt water will eat it up, but that's only with you leaving it IN the water. Since you're trailering it, then flush it, wash it and keep it waxed and all will be well.

This may be a huge shock, but you may find out you're the only person on your street even flushing their motor. I AM. No one be me flushes their boat or washes it for that matter that lives on my canal. I refuse not to, but for some reason, their boats work too? I'm going to guess that elves must come at night while I'm asleep and at least rinse theirs off.

Be smart, but stop worrying about it. It's still water and not acid, last I checked.

 

[CptAJ]

Re: Getting ready for salt on my "virgin".....

emoney is right on... well, right on the money.

Reading your post I had to go back and check thinking "Did he say acid? I thought he said salt."

You're massively overreacting. The anode change is more than enough (I even think it was unnecessary if it looked good) Chill out and enjoy the sea, man.

By the way, who says running it on the muffs wont help? Care to explain why?

 

[Don S]

Re: Getting ready for salt on my "virgin".....

Im going to change all the anodes over to aluminum, even thought they look good right now, not taking any chances. Also seriously considering installing a Mercathode system even though Im not planning on leaving it in the water, just day runs, maybe some afternoon dockage.

Aluminum anodes are plenty for trailer boats, no need for a Mercathode system. If you was planning on being docked in salt water for a couple of months, that "might" be a good idea if it was a hot (electrolysis wise) harbor you park in.

My outdrive has some paint rubbed off the bottom of the skeg, and a few places on the upper drive that have some paint spots chipped, so Im going to use the right stuff and repaint to ensure no degredation of the drive metal.

That should be done in fresh water as well.

Pulling the exhaust and risers off and carefully inspecting them to make sure no suspect areas that will progress quickly with salt. Also trying to make up my mind if I should have a flushing system. Many here say running on the muffs wont do anything, but I thought that it would.

Why would you pull the risers and manifolds to inspect? What would you inspect, what would you look for? Your going way overboard here. you also don't need a flushing system. Muffs work fine, just let it run for 10 to 15 minutes to warm up completely.
If you want some extra protection, get some Salt Away http://www.saltawayproducts.com/ and their Mixing unit http://www.saltawayproducts.com/IntlKitPage.htm hook up to the muffs and go for it.

How long is this extended stay for? 2 weeks, 2 years? 10 years ??????

 

[emoney]

Re: Getting ready for salt on my "virgin".....

The only reason someone didn't have success with flushing via muffs is because they didn't leave the motor running with fresh water long enough. I've seen people at Marinas that store their boats "high & dry" that want to flush for 2-3minutes, because that seems like a long time when you're just standing there counting seconds. Like Don said, I leave mine running during flush for no less than 12 minutes and yes, I use a clock to confirm it, lol. I always start the flush FIRST, then I start unloading coolers, etc. etc. etc. Gives me something to do while I wait.

Wax is also going to be key, so at the risk of redundancy, I'll remind you again. Make sure you wax the boat annually. And at least once a month, I go to the effort of soap suds on the whole boat. Keep it covered when it's on the trailer, because it's not the salt that causes the problem it's this Florida sun. I've had outdoor chairs, the plastic ones, last one year....maybe 1 1/2years. No coth or cushion...just those plastic ones.

 

[Fl_Richard]

Re: Getting ready for salt on my "virgin".....

Do yourself a favor and fresh water rinse off the engine too. I've seen so many boats with corrosion all over the motor because the owners thought it couldn't get wet. Rinse it off and leave the cover off so it dries well. It wil be sucking salt air into the motor box, guaranteed to leave salt residue on the block.

 

[JEBar]

Re: Getting ready for salt on my "virgin".....

going to an aluminum trailer was a good move but it too will require some attention .... as with the boat rinsing it thoroughly after being used in salt water is a good thing .... pay special attention to all bolts, electrical connections, light fixtures, wheels, bearings, brakes if applicable .... while it is true that aluminum trailers are usually designed for salt water use, if there is a weak point, salt water will find it

Jim

 

[Fireman431]

Re: Getting ready for salt on my "virgin".....

Ever wonder how there are tens of thousands boats all over the world that sit in saltwater all day and never degrade or rot? Yet, there they are, still running and floating? Minor maintenance. As was posted earlier, flushing the boat with fresh water on the muffs (allowing the thermostat to open) is more than sufficient to remove residue from the engine and outdrive. I used to flush for 3-4 minutes with my OB, but I wasn't running a thermostat at all (many, many don't here in FL...water's very warm).

Rinsing off the trailer is fine. Wash with soap every 3-4 dunkings and pay a little more attention to the hubs than you would in fresh water. I know some people who just back their trailer into the freshwater river/lake for a minute when the ramp is empty. This rinses off everything on the trailer in a second.

No need to pull the risers and exhaust unless you suspect you already have an issue that needs repaired.

 

[mohead1]

Re: Getting ready for salt on my "virgin".....

Awritey then......lmao......I guess Im WAY over reacting. Its just a good old boat, I like it alot, and have kept it up nice, dont want it to get messed up. I understand that it wont corrode away in a few dunks, but I want to use high maint. on it for the sake of keeping it nice. Appreciate the comments very much. I will change the anodes cuz I feel better, and make sure the paint is repaired on the outdrive (alumaprep/zinc chromate/paint), flush with the muffs, wax (I already wax it alot), and call it a day.

 

[Don S]

Re: Getting ready for salt on my "virgin".....

Make sure your ujoint bellows, isn't older than about 5 years before you go. You REALLY don't want salt water in those bellows, even for a short time.

 

[mohead1]

Re: Getting ready for salt on my "virgin".....

I will be in Florida for about another year on a big powerplant job.....

Thanks to all for the comments, yep Don, I have checked the bellows for the drive and the shift cable and all are good. Just changed the impeller (water pump) and the oil in the lower unit...greased the u-joints and drive splines....checked motor alignment....gimble bearing is smooth and good......im ready to go

 

[Home Cookin']

Re: Getting ready for salt on my "virgin".....

If you're talking about the wellcraft in your post, it's made for salt water and you have nothing to worry about. If you keep it moored, you have to paint the bottom; that adds metal to the equation, and then you have to worry about electrolysis. But that's not hard to deal with, either.

You will have more problems with the trailer than anything--unless it's a roller trailer with a winch and you don't dunk it.

If the only way to effectively flush an engine is to run it 12 minutes, and nobody (except 1) does that, and boats keep running, then obviously it's not necessary. It may help a little, but is not necessary. It's like if you wash your car monthly and wax it twice a year, it will last longer--but not much longer than the millions of cars that aren't washed and washed.
(However, inboards may have peculiar issues I'm not familiar with.) So it's not that running on muffs the typical way doesn't do ANY good; it just does very little good. Flushing on muffs is a relatively new practice.

 

[tpenfield]

Re: Getting ready for salt on my "virgin".....

From what I hear, the last person who stuck their toe into salt water had it dissolve instantly, like it was acid.

Actually, and in reality, your boat will be fine if you do the anode stuff and all.

I am not sure how long an 'extended stint' is , but even if it is a few years, you will be fine.

If the truth be told, salt water boats are often better than fresh water boats, because the saltwater guys take care of their boats . . the fresh water guys don't think they have to take care of them, and so they don't.

Which kind of boats have more blisters?

 

[mohead1]

Re: Getting ready for salt on my "virgin".....

LMFAO......ok ok.....so I was just a LITTLE too paranoid.....well !! I didnt know....Im a fresh water lake kinda man....but cant wait to explore around Florida Bay down here in the Keys...its awsum.....

 

[Quit It]

Re: Getting ready for salt on my "virgin".....

If you want some extra protection, get some Salt Away http://www.saltawayproducts.com/ and their Mixing unit http://www.saltawayproducts.com/IntlKitPage.htm hook up to the muffs and go for it.

So this is good stuff? I've been on the fence but might as well start my new manifolds off right if it works.

 

[Home Cookin']

Re: Getting ready for salt on my "virgin".....

So this is good stuff? I've been on the fence but might as well start my new manifolds off right if it works.

it's great for flushing the dollar bills out of your wallet; not much else

 

[Quit It]

Re: Getting ready for salt on my "virgin".....

LOL, I guess it's another bunk/roller thing. Still, it's only $50, pretty cheap especially if it works.

I'll probably give it a shot.