Getting boat ready after winterization

[bblst]

Hello, I recently winterized by 5.8L Volvo by following the steps in the Volvo workshop manual. Drained the correct hoses and opened the two drain plugs on the engine block. My question is how to prepare the engine for restart next summer? After reconnecting the hoses and closing the drain plugs I still have an engine that is bone dry inside. What is the correct procedure to prepare the engine so I don't overheat it when I do the first start up?

James

 

[tpenfield]

Re: Getting boat ready after winterization

Check through the manual to see if there are specific procedures recommended

but if they don't cover it . . .

it is nothing overwhelming . . . connect a water supply and fire it up.

 

[Augoose]

Re: Getting boat ready after winterization

Did you winterize or just drain the engine? Winterization typically includes other checks as well such as bellows, changing gear oil, engine oil, impeller inspection, etc. Did you do all that as well?
If all components check out, like tpenfield said, add water and start it up!

 

[Don S]

Re: Getting boat ready after winterization

You didn't winterize anything, you just drained the cooling system. That is a long way from winterizing.
Might have a look a these two threads from the stickies at the top of the forum.

How to winterize your engine and drive

How to summerize your winterized boat

 

[bblst]

Re: Getting boat ready after winterization

Yes, I did everything that you listed....followed the manual to the T. Just not sure about the adding water part. Will starting it with the muffs good enough or should I remove the thermostat housing and fill the block so it has something in it.

 

[tpenfield]

Re: Getting boat ready after winterization

Keep in mind that these processes are given fancy names like 'winterization' and 'summerization', as an embellishment to a fairly straight forward set of tasks.

 

[Georgesalmon]

Re: Getting boat ready after winterization

All I've ever done is put on the muffs, turn on the water and start her up. Should fill with water way before any overheating would occur.

 

[Bamaman1]

Re: Getting boat ready after winterization

It's all overkill. If you properly winterize the boat, you just charge the battery and go to the lake in the Spring. I always started my boat with the trailer sitting in the water--prior to releasing the winch cable.

I/O's under normal usage don't need all the tuneups and maintenance but every few years. Best thing you could do for the boat is to keep the winter short and get out on the lake as soon as possible.

They're right about changing impellers every 3 years, as it's cheap insurance to protect your engine. But in reality, an impeller could probably go 10 years without incident if it's a freshwater boat.

If someone just puts 20 or 30 hrs. per year on an I/O engine, changing the oil is not really needed. The most important lubricant is the lower unit lube. It's just a 10 minute under $10 change, and should be done yearly without fail. An aging boat often has l/u seals fail, and they're often a $300+ repair. Fry lower unit bearings and gears, and a factory replacement unit is $2K.

 

[Don S]

Re: Getting boat ready after winterization

It's all overkill. If you properly winterize the boat, you just charge the battery and go to the lake in the Spring. I always started my boat with the trailer sitting in the water--prior to releasing the winch cable.

I/O's under normal usage don't need all the tuneups and maintenance but every few years. Best thing you could do for the boat is to keep the winter short and get out on the lake as soon as possible.

They're right about changing impellers every 3 years, as it's cheap insurance to protect your engine. But in reality, an impeller could probably go 10 years without incident if it's a freshwater boat.

If someone just puts 20 or 30 hrs. per year on an I/O engine, changing the oil is not really needed. The most important lubricant is the lower unit lube. It's just a 10 minute under $10 change, and should be done yearly without fail. An aging boat often has l/u seals fail, and they're often a $300+ repair. Fry lower unit bearings and gears, and a factory replacement unit is $2K.

You must be one of those that runs everything till it breaks and then fixes it.

Many people just head to the lakes after the boat sat all winter, that's when the ramps get blocked by boats that won't start, overheat, die when you shift them, steering that is froze up. Things missing etc.

To the original poster, no need to prime anything, if you have a good impeller, it should prime within 15 about seconds and be full of water.

Here is a checklist we used at the shop I worked at (modified a bit) up in Alaska to make sure all the boats we had in storage were in good shape when they left.

View attachment Beginning of season Checklist.pdf

 

[Bamaman1]

Re: Getting boat ready after winterization

Don S: I knew I'd get some feedback on my post. I'm very well versed on Mercruisers, as I've owned two of them since 1969 and still own one. I bought one of the first new Yamaha 115 hp 2 strokes--27 years ago, and it still runs great. And my original SeaDoo is a 1990 model and runs better than it looks. I also have a new Waverunner 4 stroke and a 2012 Yamaha F150 on a Bennington Tritoon.

My point is that I/O's just don't require much engine maintenance because the car based engines, and they simply don't wear out in fresh water use. And they are better if kept on a trailer or boat lift.

On I/O's, the main thing is making sure all the water is drained out of the engine blocks. I've never known air to freeze and crack a block. And change the lower unit lube yearly--a quick, cheap job task.

My main maintenance gripe with Mercruisers is aging rubber bellows, and how hard they are to get sealed up. I/O's run great and get good fuel mileage, but maintenance can be such a pain to deal with after the first 6-8 years.

My winterization of the new Yamaha 150 was to change the oil and lower unit lube. The Waverunner requires lifting the nose 3', and starting it up for 20 seconds four times with 2 minutes between starts. I have 100% gasoline with a stablizer in both. Fortunately, the Mid South Winters are short and not that harsh. Other than that, just keep a Battery Tender on the batteries, and we'll be ready to go in March.