Gearcase reseal and o/haul ~ 6 HP E/rude 1975

[Tim Frank]

Replacing the impeller on this motor and decided to really make my life difficult by dealing with a minor leak in the gearcase.
Have everything disassembled and judging by the condition of all the hard parts probably did not need to do this at all.

Too late now....

Three questions:

1) The OEM manual says that you should use OMC Gasket Sealing compound #317201 on the bores of all seals....on various screw threads when you reinstall them...and "OMC Adhesive M" on the impeller plate....and the gearcase "ribbon" seal.
Does the success of this rebuild depend on using the spec'd sealant or can i use Permatec for all? (I already asked about the "ribbon seal" in another thread and opinion was PermaTec was fine there. I would think that Permatec would "lock" the threads sufficiently but still be service-removable....or would removable Loctite be better)

2) There are a bunch of "special service Tools" spec'd for a few operations.
Mainly bushing R&R and seal R&R.

Again, are these absolutely necessary, or using sound judgment can I make up something that will do the job?

3) There is a small circlip called the "driveshaft retaining ring". On principal I would just replace it, but it is "no longer available".
Any reason that I couldn't take it to a good industrial supply shop and buy a circlip to fit? I can't think why not, but second opinions are always good.

 

[Daviet]

Re: Gearcase reseal and o/haul ~ 6 HP E/rude 1975

1) I have used aftermarket sealers with no problems.
2) Use common sense and you can get by without a lot of the called for special tools.
3) Reuse the old clip if you can, otherwise use what is available. If the clip is submerged in oil, you woun't have to worry about rust, otherwise try and find a stainless steel one.

 

[Tim Frank]

Re: Gearcase reseal and o/haul ~ 6 HP E/rude 1975

1) I have used aftermarket sealers with no problems.
2) Use common sense and you can get by without a lot of the called for special tools.
3) Reuse the old clip if you can, otherwise use what is available. If the clip is submerged in oil, you woun't have to worry about rust, otherwise try and find a stainless steel one.

Thanks, pretty much what I thought.
The clip is probably fine, but i once hauled out a sports car transmission and all the was wrong was a broken circlip.... 4 hours R&R for a $1- part....

 

[cajuncook1]

Re: Gearcase reseal and o/haul ~ 6 HP E/rude 1975

Recently had to reseal my 1970 18hp Evinrude gearcase. FR and BeTheKing recommended these products to me.

thanks F_R and BeTheKing for the recommendation for sealer1000 and Perfect seal#4. None of the local Evinrude dealerships could help me out and was not familiar with the proper sealants for this motor....geez!!]


Website for Perfect seal #4 replacment

http://www.stylefeeder.com/i/d9k65rks/Johnson-Evinrude-Brp-Gasket-Sealing-Compound-0508235

Website for Sealer 1000 replacement (Scotch grip 3M #847)

www.mcmaster.com

hope this helps ya

cajuncook1

 

[Tim Frank]

Re: Gearcase reseal and o/haul ~ 6 HP E/rude 1975

Recently had to reseal my 1970 18hp Evinrude gearcase. FR and BeTheKing recommended these products to me.



hope this helps ya

cajuncook1

Thanks. Looks like there are many ways to skin the cat....
This will probably end up being what I have on hand plus what is available locally that I don't.

 

[Tim Frank]

Re: Gearcase reseal and o/haul ~ 6 HP E/rude 1975

The saga continues....no rush as I have an extra small o/b, 8HP E/rude, that I am using at the moment; would like to finish up though.
The dismantling has been the tough part so far....

Two problems
1) Gear shift rod bushing and seal. The OEM manual is not as precise on this as I might have thought. There is a brass bushing that guides the shift rod as it exits the gearcase...it goes in a bore that also contains a rubber o-ring...which is sandwiched between the bottom of that bushing and the bore bottom-shoulder. There is no real instruction on reinstallation. I can press in a bushing with the best of them, but how critical is the compression or non-compression of that o-ring?
There was no real wear on that bushing, I was just going to replace the o-ring. The tech at the dealer where I bought the parts said that the bushing could stay in place....I could fish out the o-ring and reinstall a new one.
Obviously a job for a seasoned pro because I got the old one out easier than i expected, but getting the new one back was going to be more of a challenge than I was prepared to deal with to save a $6- bushing. That o-ring was very thick and not very pliable. Would have been a real blood pressure raiser.
Ordered the new bushing, ran a 5/16-18 thread into the old bushing, pulled it and it is all downhill on that part except for the clearance between the bushing bottom and the o-ring....if any. I can just reinstall to "about" the same depth if nobody has a better idea.


2) There are two other seals....one in the water pump bearing holder....the other in the bearing housing for the propeller shaft output. I am having real trouble getting the seals out of these assemblies without overdoing the force....the water pump housing is no longer available....and the prop shaft bearing housing is a $120+ part, so i don't want to damage either.
Any tips in removing seals?