Gear lube in u joint bellow with foreign metal chuncks

[DD123]

I have a 1973 140 hp mercruiser I/o got it for a few hundred dollars. Po could not get it started. Changed the points got spark. Carb flooding. Rebuilt it with new float. The old one had a hole and was filled with gas. After that it would just back fire from carb. The distributor cap was in the correct firing order but all the plugs were moved over one spot. Fixed that she fires up every time now.
Next no forward or reverse. Took lower shift cable off didn't move at all with the plastic end off so figured I need a new shift cable. Was taking the drive off to see if anyone updated to the newer cable they did. And there was just some goopy stuff n there and it moves freely again. Probably still going to switch it. Newest problem, the u joint bellows was full of gear lube which I know is the seal and I understand that I can buy a seal kit and the tool. But there was random chuncks of metal in the oil a few piece came off the the metal sleeve the bellow sit on and were probably smoothed out from riding around in it two were the grease points for the ujoint which means new u joint and yoke. The last thing is a tiny spring and then two things I can't identify. Can anyone identify the two pices and tell me where they came from and where the spring came from and what those other two are How bad is it and can I fix it. Ps how do you upload a picture from a cellphone

 

[Scott Danforth]

Welcome aboard

you need two more thread posts prior to being able to post pics (in the rules you agreed to )

see tutorials

usually, bellows leak, cause rust on u-joint shaft, takes out seal, gear lube goes low, drive becomes toast

prior to taking the boat out, I would replace the input shaft/u-joints/seal/gimbal bearing/bellows, etc.as well as a new raw water pump (get the whole pump, not just the impeller)

backfiring from the carb is most likely timing since you replaced the points, however didnt mention verifying dwell or setting timing.

 

[DD123]

When it was back firing that was due to the the wires being all moved over one spot on the cap fixed that and is timed correctly now. How can I tell if the drive is toast or not

 

[Scott Danforth]

you already have to pull it apart. time to look at the factory manual and pull it apart

you can view the factory manuals here http://boatinfo.no/lib/library.html

 

[DD123]

So say it is shot what would be a plug and play option going from mc-1 to alpha gen one

 

[achris]

So say it is shot what would be a plug and play option going from mc-1 to alpha gen one

Yep. Just need to make sure you get a 1.98:1 (or 1.94) ratio drive.

 

[DD123]

How do I know if I need the shirt or long shaft

 

[achris]

You need the short. All MC1 drives on inline engines (up to 1982) used the short yoke.

 

[DD123]

Thank you. Would I need a new lower shift cable to match the drive and a new bellows kit the match the transom and would the gimbal bearing need to be replace to match the drive or go off the old one to fit the housing

 

[achris]

None of the above. An Alpha One will just fit right up and bolt on. No need to change anything else.

 

[DD123]

I need new bellows the ujoint one is sliced so I might as well do them all do I match the kit to the alpha one gen one

 

[achris]

Same bellows for all transom assemblies from later MC1 to Alpha One. If you have an early MC1, use the bellows for that.

 

[DD123]

Thanks