Garmin 93SV Installation questions

[Jeff Fro]

I will be installing a Garmin 93SV, the last model for a non-touch screen on my boat.

Since the boat is 25 feet long, the Garmin will be mounted on the helm. Which is about 3 to 4 feet above the back lower deck. However, while drift fishing, I would like to have the Garmin unit mounted lower near where we will be fishing.

So the question is....can I use a short cable for the transducer to mount the 93SV on the lower deck? and when I'm underway, use an extension cable to be able to mount it on the helm?

Thanks.

 

[Scott Danforth]

there is only one transducer cable. its about 25-30 feet long. does the unit have the cables that plug into the back of the bracket and the unit snaps in?

or do they plug directly into the unit?

I have a 7" garmin and I can read fine from the back swim platform of my boat with the unit mounted to the helm.

 

[Jeff Fro]

Scott, I don't know for sure. It's been a while since I've had it out of the box. I do know it's about 17-18 feet to the helm from the back of the boat. Either Friday or Saturday, the boat goes into the garage for wiring, engine, lower install. I have the wheels to mount onto the cradle for the forward keel to sit in. It will be splashed this spring...hopefully.

 

[dingbat]

I looked into sharing a SV transducer with a second unit when I installed a 94SV 3 years ago.

The cleanest is to install a second display and “share” the transducer via NMEA 2000.

You could buy a splice box, an extension cable and a second cradle mount.
The splice box would allow you to “splice” a second pigtail (extension cable) on the transducer for use at the second cradle mount.

 

[Jeff Fro]

With the NMEA 2000 setup, would I be able to just move the unit to the back and connect it to a "T" in the NMEA 2000?

The splice box sounds doable as well, probably cheaper.

 

[dingbat]

With the NMEA 2000 setup, would I be able to just move the unit to the back and connect it to a "T" in the NMEA 2000?

The splice box sounds doable as well, probably cheaper.

Nope...your not "sharing" the transducer between units. Your sharing the Display (data) via NMEA 2000

I stayed away from the splice box because of the work involved. Couldn't find an "off the shelf" switch box to accommodate a 12 pin side scan transducer connector. You would need to design and wire one yourself.

Not insurmountable.....but far more work than I wanted to put into it.

How are you soldering skills........the side scans are 12 pin connectors. Adding a switch and 2 more connectors is a minimum 36 connections on 22 gauge shield wire.

 

[Jeff Fro]

Ok, so the NMEA shares data, not the accessory transducer. i'm understanding this a bit better.

My soldering skills are pretty good. Repaired several hundred furnace boards when I taught HVAC at a trade school and a couple of corvette control boards. 12 pins x 3 shouldn't be too bad. Just trying to figure out the need for a switch, I haven't dug into this very far as of yet.

 

[Scott Danforth]

If you want to have 1 transducer and switch between 2 locations. You need a swirch to flip all 12 connectors between location A or location B

 

[Jeff Fro]

Something like this?

 

[Scott Danforth]

Sort of....

 

[Jeff Fro]

Why couldn't I just make basically a "Y" cord? I'll only have one input (Transducer) and only one leg would be used since I only have one 93SV?

I'm thinking that the transducer won't care which leg uses the information, it will be getting power from only one leg.

Just tossing it out there.

 

[dingbat]

Ok, so the NMEA shares data, not the accessory transducer. i'm understanding this a bit better.

My soldering skills are pretty good. Repaired several hundred furnace boards when I taught HVAC at a trade school and a couple of corvette control boards. 12 pins x 3 shouldn't be too bad. Just trying to figure out the need for a switch, I haven't dug into this very far as of yet.

In the electronics manufacturing business.

Working with 22 and 24 awg shielded wiring is very time consuming and meticulous work. Wouldn’t try to solder.
Would go with screw terminations in a sealed enclosure like this

Garmin Wire Block to 12-Pin Sounder Connector | The GPS Store

Use this wire block to adapt your bare wire transducer to a 12-Pin Garmin connector. Adapt a compatible bare wire transducer to a Garmin 12-pin sounder connector with this wire block adapter.

www.thegpsstore.com

My concern with a “Y” cable is the open, unused connector in a marine environment.
It’s not if, its when....

 

[Scott Danforth]

Not to mention an un-terminated cable is an antenna.

The best would be to share the display data to a rear monitor

 

[dingbat]

Not to mention an un-terminated cable is an antenna.

And a terminated cable isn’t?

Wouldnt matter here anyhow...signal return wires.

If interference shows up on the supply side you have an issue the pulse generator, not the cable.

Lots of problems with “junk electronics” in the past blamed on erroneous routing of transducer cables.

 

[Jeff Fro]

Wouldn't the only signal that would be recognized would come from the transducer? As well as the only signals that the 93SV could use would be from the transducer? Thus making the extra pigtail irrelevant?

 

[dingbat]

Wouldn't the only signal that would be recognized would come from the transducer? As well as the only signals that the 93SV could use would be from the transducer? Thus making the extra pigtail irrelevant?

Unless you add a switch to isolate connector 1 from connector 2, both connectors are active at the same time.

If something shorts the connector at station A, you short station B as well

Add the switches into the mix and you see why I walked on the project and went with second transducer