Fuse panel on new Starcraft Islander?

ricohman

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jul 30, 2011
Messages
1,631
I am installing a Humminbird 597ci HD DI and I would prefer to run power from the fuse panel, if there is one.
I took off an access panel to the console but I don't see a panel inside. The dash switches all seem to have breakers but I know there must be a master switch or panel somewhere.
Any ideas?
 

Silvertip

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 22, 2003
Messages
28,771
Re: Fuse panel on new Starcraft Islander?

If the switches have separate breakers there typically is no fuse panel. You can tap into the main feed to the breakers and use an in-line fuse for the locator. The main feed to the helm is usually a #8 or #10 pair (red & black) that runs from the battery to the helm. A main fuse or breaker will be located within 6 inches of the POS terminal on the battery to protect that run of wire.
 

ricohman

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jul 30, 2011
Messages
1,631
Re: Fuse panel on new Starcraft Islander?

If the switches have separate breakers there typically is no fuse panel. You can tap into the main feed to the breakers and use an in-line fuse for the locator. The main feed to the helm is usually a #8 or #10 pair (red & black) that runs from the battery to the helm. A main fuse or breaker will be located within 6 inches of the POS terminal on the battery to protect that run of wire.

Thank you.
I will have a look for that. I should be able to run power from that.
I was going to use a keyed source but I see that all of the switches (except the radio) can be run with the key off anyway. I think dual batteries with an isolator would be a good idea.
 

Silvertip

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 22, 2003
Messages
28,771
Re: Fuse panel on new Starcraft Islander?

No! dual batteries with an isolator is NOT a good idea. Dual batteries with an ACR or dual battery switch is a good idea. Isolators are old school and have some voltage drop issues. The key on ACCESSORY feed (the "A" terminal) on an ignition switch is NOT intended to run any accessories other than the gauges. That circuit is part of the "Engine" electrical system. The switch panel is part of the "Boat" electrical system which is the pair of wires I mentioned that run from the battery directly to the switch panel. Unless you have a trolling motor and the engine has a high-output alternator neither the isolator, ACR or switch are any benefit to you. Low output alternators take forever to fully charge a deeply dischartged battery (troller) so you still need to charge it manually. Think this through before you start making enhancements where they are not needed.
 
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