fuel pump cd14 and shut down proceedure

[ArneA]

On the links that were sent to me with photos, it says that there is no room to mount a pump on a cd14 5.5hp. It says there is room 7hp and above but not on the 5.5 If you did get one mounted on a 5.5 1957 cd14, a photograph of how you did it would be helpful in the event I have to do the same thing.
One other thing.. What is the shut down procedure for this motor?. I noticed that when I just pulled the gas line plug, the engine ran for a minute then died, However, there was still a full fuel bowl. Does this bowl have to be drained if it is not going to be used for a while? If so, I better order in some new bowl gaskets because I just cant keep taking the bowl off and on using the same gasket. There is a drain plug screw on the carb but it is a bugger to get to and if that tiny screw drops it will go into never never land. Then putting it back in was a pane also. Would appreciate a few comments on this.
Thanks.

 

[lindy46]

Re: fuel pump cd14 and shut down proceedure

If you run stabilizer in the gas, you probably don't have to worry about it. I usually do remove the sediment bowl, and drain and clean it. The gasket hasn't been a problem. I don't take the drain screw out of the bottom of the carb for just the reason you mentioned. Those little screws are hard enough to put back in with the carb off the motor. And if the gas is stabilized, the little bit remaining in the float bowl will most likely not hurt anything.

 

[1946Zephyr]

Re: fuel pump cd14 and shut down proceedure

Yea, those little plugs are a pain to get back in and so tiny. You can also loosen the packing nut a little bit and remove the high speed needle. I have heard of people just turning the motor upside down and let the fuel run out of the top vent hole too. I find that part to be a little bit easier. If you are for sure going to use the motor next spring, then you shouldn't have any issue with the carb, even if you do leave gas it it. It usually takes a while for the oil to harden up and shelac the carb parts up, like a couple years. Out of all the motors I've messed around with, I haven't had much trouble getting them started in the spring, even if gas sat in the carb all winter. I just opened up the high speed an extra 1/4 turn and after a few minutes of running, turn it back down. Storing your motor indoors is the key.

The main thing you should worry about, is the gearcase oil. Make sure you replace that, before you put it away for the winter, so you know for sure that your motor won't be sitting all winter with water mixed into the oil. Soon after you put it down for the winter, the water and oil will separate and your internal parts will rust up real bad.