Fuel issue again

[jameswest21]

So I have replaced fuel tank fuel lines primer bulb and fuel pumps...it doesn't even stay running now. But if I pump primer it's good to go....I bought a universal primer bulb and regular fuel hose. I didn't buy the assembly. I've went through engine and there are no fuel leaks anywhere. Starting to get frustrated. BTW it's a 68 kiekhafer mercury 1100ss.....anybody think that the universal stuff could be the problem?

 

[racerone]

No-------Look into installing fuel pump repair kits.----Easy to do.

 

[sam am I]

Agree ^^ and is most likely now your problem if you haven't done this.....

And/or temp splice in a clear bit of hose as close to the carb/s as possible, look for bubbles (lots if leak problem exists before pump). And yes, some after market stuff is just crap..........leaky at quik connects if you run them!!

No air bubble?, temp splice in a fuel pressure gauge (cheapy air pressure gauge) after the pump, what is the fuel psi at idle? What is the fuel psi at wot? What is the fuel pressure when you pump the bulb?.........Might need to connect some dots!! i,e. plugged/restricted intake, weak fuel pump etc, use all of the above tools and findings to find/create a more directed solution to the issue........no guess work needed!!

 

[jameswest21]

Fuel pumps are replaced. Seems fine....now onto the next thing are there any gurus on these motors that may be able to show me how to realign the lower unit with the throttle...it's backwards now in full reverse o the throttle it goes full forward and there is no reverse

 

[Texasmark]

In the control box you have 2 holes on the throttle lever. One is above the pivot point and the other below. If in the upper hole, it pulls on the center conductor when advancing the throttle. If in the hole on the other side of the pivot from the handle it pushes when you push. As I recall on late model engines you use the upper hole...the one near the handle. on the older Mercs, with the power plug on the side, like the 00 series, you may need to push back on the shift lever on the engine meaning the center conductor has to push when you push the throttle meaning it needs to be on the opposite side from the handle as I said above.

Unmount the control and take the rear cover off and you can get to the cable.

 

[jameswest21]

Ok just did link and sync and that shifting issue is good to go now.....so even after doing the fuel pump rebuilds...when pumping primer you can hear one of the pumps...like it's sucking. But I have to kink fuel line when I release the bulb to suck fuel. I'm still thinking that my universal fuel lines from autozone could be the culprit. Any input on this would help soon much. When boat is running, runs for about 5 mins then dies unless you squeeze the bulb then it perks right up

 

[Texasmark]

I have read on here where the oval shaped after market bulb doesn't do well with Mercs.....why the distinction I "dunno". Recommended is the Merc/Quicksilver OEM. Other thing I was reading the last time I bought one was that you are supposed to hold the bulb vertical with the arrow (outlet) pointed up. In retrospect, I guess that is to aid the check valve in positively seating so you don't have the problem you are experiencing with the aftermarket. Course over the years I never paid attention to what direction it was pointing. Just grabbed and squeezed till firm and hit the switch.