Fuel connectors

[Beakster]

Hi there,

Just bought my first boat, a Cadorette with a 100hp Johnson outboard. It came without any fuel connected so I'm trying to sort this now.

I bought a plastic fuel tank which has a female NTP fitting. I screwed an NTP to male Johnson fitting into that and I bought a female Johnson to female Johnson fuel line with handpump. This connects to the outboard so I should be good there.

The boat also has an internal fuel tank. There is a hose coming out of it with a barb attached. I think what I want to so is attach this hose to a male johnson fitting, then I could disconnect the hose from the plastic external tank and just plug it into the hose coming from the internal tank.

To do this I think I would need a barb to male johnson connector, but I can't find one any where so maybe I'm going about this the wrong way. How do people normally connect an internal tank to their outboard?

Edit: What I have found that I think would work is:
Anti-siphon hose bard to male NTP -> Female NTP to female NTP (coupling) -> male NTP to male Johnson

Thanks

 

[Chris1956]

Standard Johnny fuel lines have female fittings on both ends. These fittings have plastic hose fittings. The fuel line from your tank would also need a female Johnny fitting, with the plastic hose fitting, provided you want to run it directly to the motor. They should be available pretty much everywhere, I would think.

If you want to use the same fuel line, from the built in tank, you would need a male connector with a hose fitting. Not sure why you want all those fittings. If the main fuel line is too short, simply extend it with more fuel line and a double ended hose fitting, and stick the Johnny female fitting on it's end.

Johnny fuel fittings do cause restriction, so minimize the number of them.

 

[Beakster]

Standard Johnny fuel lines have female fittings on both ends. These fittings have plastic hose fittings. The fuel line from your tank would also need a female Johnny fitting, with the plastic hose fitting, provided you want to run it directly to the motor. They should be available pretty much everywhere, I would think.

If you want to use the same fuel line, from the built in tank, you would need a male connector with a hose fitting. Not sure why you want all those fittings. If the main fuel line is too short, simply extend it with more fuel line and a double ended hose fitting, and stick the Johnny female fitting on it's end.

Johnny fuel fittings do cause restriction, so minimize the number of them.

Hi, thanks for the reply. Ok that makes sense, so what I need to buy is a fuel hose with the hand pump bulb in it, a female johnson for the end to connect to the outboard, and then just connect that to the tank on the other end. It means I'll end up with two hand pump bulbs, but I guess that makes sense.

Thanks

 

[Chris1956]

I presume you will use the built in tank the most, and the smaller tank as aux fuel, or transport of fuel from gas station to boat, right? If so, you can use the short fuel line when you use the small tank. Primer bulbs are pretty cheap.

If you plan to siphon fuel from small tank into main tank, get a "shake-shake" siphon hose. They are $6 and work real well.

 

[mike_i]

How was the tank connected when you ran the sea trail or run the motor before buying the boat?

 

[Beakster]

How was the tank connected when you ran the sea trail or run the motor before buying the boat?

During the sea trial the internal tank was not connected, the current owner told me he never connected it. He was using a plastic external tank and hoses which wasn't included in the sale. I've now purchased my own external tank and hoses so I have the same as what he had. I just want to connect up the internal tank now.

I presume you will use the built in tank the most, and the smaller tank as aux fuel, or transport of fuel from gas station to boat, right? If so, you can use the short fuel line when you use the small tank. Primer bulbs are pretty cheap.

If you plan to siphon fuel from small tank into main tank, get a "shake-shake" siphon hose. They are $6 and work real well.

Yes that's the plan. The internal tank would be for general use and the external tank would be for emergencies (fuel in internal runs out), or when I'm going out for a long day on the water where I expect to need more than the internal holds.

Here's what I bought today so I can run the motor with an external tank:



And here is the link coming out of the internal tank:


I am guessing I can just slip a hose over that barb, go to a bulb, and then to a male johnson connector? Or maybe it's better to follow that all the way back to the fuel tank if I can and run 1 continuous hose to the bulb and then to the motor?

 

[mike_i]

Are you able to inspect the main tank? Did he say why he wasn't using it? I'd check it out for leaks, corrosion and contaminants inside. I'm curious why he would run a 100hp motor on a portable tank, seems weird to me

 

[Chris1956]

You can also buy another fuel line like you have and remove the upstream fitting, and slip the hose over the hose barb in the existing main fuel line.

I do agree that you need to inspect the main tank. You will not get far with a 100HP motor and 6 gallons of gasoline. You will want 18 gallons of fuel or so, for a day's use.

 

[Beakster]

This is about as much access as I can see to get to inspect it. Seems to be a 15 gallon aluminium tank, so I don't think it will be corroded or leaking.

I'm assuming its empty given the barb in the hose is open. I guess I'll fill it with a little fuel, see how it looks when it comes out of the barb and if it comes out clean I'll put a few litres in and run the engine.

 

[Chris1956]

You could remove the fuel level sender and have a look at the inside.

You need a ground wire on the fuel sender tang for both safety and to make the gas gauge work.

 

[Beakster]

You could remove the fuel level sender and have a look at the inside.

You need a ground wire on the fuel sender tang for both safety and to make the gas gauge work.

Yes there is a ground wire attached to tank a bit further down. Fair point on removing the sender to inspect. Thanks

 

[Chris1956]

Remember not to use a shop vacuum (or any vacuum) to remove gasoline or debris inside the tank. Vacuums have exposed electrical brushes that arc, and often cause explosions when used near volatile fumes.