Fried!

GT1000000

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jul 13, 2011
Messages
4,916
How to put it in a nice way...I am so F****** disgusted and P***** off,that I am ready to set fire to my entire boat, and hope fully the house will go up with it!
I got a new used lower unit for my tower of power inline 6. The reason for that was that I had no reverse and I had to rev it up before it would engage forward.
So, happy, happy, Joy, joy, I put it in the water yesterday, after putting a brand new water pump, complete, on it. Fired it up, and lo-and behold, beautiful stream coming out of the pee-hole...WOW! even had reverse for the first time and it worked beautifully, forward was just as nice. No unnecessary revving required to engage.
Marvelous! Ok time for some fishin...
Cruised around, fished some, actually caught a nice keeper...
THEN it happened...
Was cruisin at WOT, and sputter, sputter, engine quits... Smokin like San Francisco on a foggy day...WTF???
Tried crankin the engine after a few minutes and nuthin!
It would crank, but not start... approximately 2-3 miles from the dock...
Well, I am in a canal, so I had my first mate get off at the edge of the canal, and tow, while I kept the boat off the rocks on the edge...
Then he would get in, and we would use the trolling motor to get past the bridges...
As we got closer to the dock, I just ran us in with the trolling motor.
Anyhow, at one point I tried to re start the engine, after it had cooled down...
After several attempts, using PB Blaster as a lube, and starting fluid, sprayed into the carbs, it fired up at full throttle, BUT...
No flow from the pee-hole!
So I shut it down and proceeded to get us back to the dock...
Almost 2 and a half hours later, 2 dead batteries, one fried trolling motor connection later, we made it back.
So, today I pull the lower and find the impeller is toast...
I pulled the plugs, and No. 1 plug has a nice coating of burnt melted aluminum on it...
Ran a compression test... first without any oil in the cylinders and got the following readings
#1-90 psi
#2-85psi
#3-10psi
#4-150psi
#5-150psi
#6-145psi
Then, I poured some oil in the weak cylinders and rechecked
#1-130psi, when the oil got blown out, back to about 90psi.
#2-130, then back to 85-90psi
#3-120psi, 90psi, 60 psi, 30psi, then back to 0-10psi
I suppose something got sucked up and blocked the flow of water to the engine at some point, but by the time it happened, it was TOO F-ing late...
Yeah, I know in hindsight everything is 20/20, and I should get a water temp gauge or a water pressure gauge for the future,:facepalm: but it is too late for those ideas at this point...
I also tried muffs on the lower, before any cranking, and no water would come out of the pee-hole.
I disconnected the pee-hole hose and put pressurized water from the hose into it and water was seeping out of the #2 cylinder spark plug area.
I guess the engine is fried, but would appreciate any suggestions, as to what I might look into, and if there is any hope, for resucitating this old Tower of Power.
Otherwise, I my have to look into either a Psychiatrist, Shrink, or a really long time before I can save up enough to fix or replace this motor.
This sucks to the umpteeenth degree, but if any one can give me a path to follow, you will have prevented a possible suicide...
Thanks in advance for any and all suggestions...
Extremely depressed and anxious to go fishing, Gus:(
 

cr2k

Captain
Joined
Mar 19, 2009
Messages
3,730
Re: Fried!

Loose ice bags are often the cause. Hard to see in the water and never there when you stop.

Water seep around plugs...That is just a cover gasket. Easy and cheap to replace.
 

Faztbullet

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 2, 2008
Messages
15,920
Re: Fried!

If you have insurance ,turn it in to see if they will fix it.......
 

jimg984

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 16, 2007
Messages
403
Re: Fried!

tell us more about ur trip back to boat landing area,,,,,,,,,lol
 

GT1000000

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jul 13, 2011
Messages
4,916
Re: Fried!

Just an update on my trials and tribulations...
Tore down the engine to the point where I could look inside at the pistons...

Sure enough, no's. 1,2 &3 are scored, scalded, scraped... the rings are somewhat welded into the pistons...
Other than that, it looks great:facepalm:

Anyhow, I am trying to locate a reasonably priced and reputable shop that might be able to rebuild this powerhead.

If anyone has any good, intelligent, well-meaning suggestions, I would appreciate it.:)
 

GT1000000

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jul 13, 2011
Messages
4,916
Re: Fried!

DSCF1117.jpgDSCF1138.jpgDSCF1115.jpgDSCF1114.jpg
PORT-STARBOARD-S/N, UPPER PORT SIDE OF BLOCK-FRONT VIEW


Best guess, according to the serial number...5739168, 1979-1981??? Mercury/Mariner? CDIgnition, 115HP...

Just found a pull off powerhead on Ebay, from Southcentral Outboards, here's a link to it
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Merc...at_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item4aae828b2e

My questions are, the Ebay powerhead is a distributor type engine, circa 1973, while mine is equipped with a CDIgnition...by changing some of the parts from mine to that one, will that make it a "drop-in" replacement, or is there going to be some problem with carb, fuel pump, flywheel and timing issues? What drives the fuel pump? Is it a direct connection to the crank or is it cranckcase pressure?
As far as changing parts, I am only guessing here, but I would have to swap out the top crank cover, and the intake, along with the required gaskets??? Yes...No??? More to it???

Thanks, Gus
 

Faztbullet

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 2, 2008
Messages
15,920
Re: Fried!

Cannot install your parts on a distributor engine without MAJOR work and its not worth it as your going backwards. The 73 115 is a non power port block and only puts out about 90+ hp at prop. Your 115 is power ported and puts out 115+ at prop and the boat.net link is incorrect they have posted. The fuel pump is driven off crankcase pulses. Dang I need to list my powerheads on Ebay.. I am out of 115hp at this time but have several good 90hp powerheads that will fit. All have been torn down and inspected, new crank seals, new rings,restricter mods and new gaskets.
 

GT1000000

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jul 13, 2011
Messages
4,916
Re: Fried!

Cannot install your parts on a distributor engine without MAJOR work and its not worth it as your going backwards. The 73 115 is a non power port block and only puts out about 90+ hp at prop. Your 115 is power ported and puts out 115+ at prop and the boat.net link is incorrect they have posted. The fuel pump is driven off crankcase pulses. Dang I need to list my powerheads on Ebay.. I am out of 115hp at this time but have several good 90hp powerheads that will fit. All have been torn down and inspected, new crank seals, new rings,restricter mods and new gaskets.

Sounds interesting, what would it cost to have one of those 90's sent down to me and what parts would I need to make it work, in other words, would I have to swap out any parts from my engine to that powerhead, or is it simply a bolt in? And, on another note, would it be worth anything A- to send you my engine as a core, OR, even send you this engine for a rebuild??? What would be the cost involved?
Thanks, Gus
 

Faztbullet

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 2, 2008
Messages
15,920
Re: Fried!

Pm me for a price and shipping information on the 90. You would install all your ignition/fuel/linkage parts and I would also supply 3 main jets to match the carbs(90 jets are smaller). If your engine is as bad as you say you could ship it to me (all parts) and I could bore all 6, install 6 new 2 ring pistons, crank seals,every gasket replaced, restricter mods,fuel pump rebuilt, carbs rebuilt with new needles & seats,gaskets and new floats,rejetted,new hoses,painted,assembled and timed ,ready to drop on and plug & play for around $1800 plus shipping
 
Top